old-tank

Coker tire sells a 6.50R16 that would be more appropriate

On earlier cars (55) the same key operated the door lock and ignition and the key number is stamped on a tang of the door lock cylinder. I have had dealers and locksmiths make keys from this number. Willie

There is usually not much wrong with the motors....just need cleaning and lubrication. The commutator will need to be dressed with fine sand paper. There is a little trouble getting the brushes back but not that hard. Don't throw it away. Willie

Post now and answer questions later..... Willie

What model is your Special? I may have some good used ones or some new one left over from a previous project. Willie

Thanks Lamar I guess we can let this topic die until I get the tranny out of my 55 and measure precisely like you did. Willie

Back in the 1960's I remember a front wheel bearing replacement on a 58 Buick where a tapered bearing was used...no more information than that. Willie

Thanks Lamar Try to get a measurement of the bellhousing only and then the total length (bellhousing to torque ball flange) Willie

I finally got a chance to get together with fellow local chapter member Don Duddles to look for parts, swap lies and to play with his toys. I am going to encourage him to jump in here to describe this conversion. You get one picture below that loads with this page and link to higher resolution shots. Willie tractor2 tractor3 tractor4 tractor5 tractor6 tractor1

Ken...So it is somewhere around and inch. And all 56 transmissions are supposed to be the same length as the 55 50/70 series (still looking for guidance from the 56 crowd). Willie

Hey Ken Thanks for all the grunt work getting the measurements. Now I am more confused than ever. I always thought that there was at least 2" difference in the 2 transmissions in 1955, but it seems that there is less than an inch. Let's see if some 56 measurements show up. Attached is a scan of the rear bearing retainer and parts. The retainer "L" on my 63 is 9.5 inches and that is the only part on a 55 that is different between the series 40/60 and 50/70. And the overall lenght from the bellhousing to the torque ball flange is ~29". My case and rear bearing retainer is 18.5" and yours was 19.25. Willie

NOS or NORS American made bearings and synthetic grease. Willie

Should the Bugle Go to Bi-Monthly? no

Thanks for the replies. This gives me something to "chew on". Maybe I have it backwards as far as length of 55 trannies. Maybe the 50/70 series is the shorter? I wonder if Ken could and would measure the rear bearing retainer on his Super? Please... Willie

I agree with Brad! The seller and the buyer should know what they are selling and buying. I think it is OK to ask questions and request more pictures, but NEVER give advise on the correctness of the item (for all of the reasons that Brad gave AND your advise may be WRONG) Willie

Here is what I think know and have heard. There are two different transmissions for 55, the differences being the length. The dynafow for the 40/60 series is shorter than the 50/70 series, the difference being in the length of the rear bearing retainer or tail shaft. The 56 dynaflow is longer than the 55 40/60 series but the same as the 55 50/70 series. The increase length of the 56 is due to the fatter torque converter and bell housing. The 56 also has an aluminum bell housing. I have been talking to a very pleasant gentleman (1200 miles away) who found a stash of dynaflows that have been rebuilt years ago. He found one labeled 1955. I asked for dimensions (length of the rear bearing retainer and overall length = 9.5" and ~29"). This matched my (series 63) measurements. Just to be sure I asked for some pictures and (gaaak!) it has and aluminum bell housing. What the...? I am not opposed to using a 56 tranny in a 55 if it will fit. Does anyone have any different info on lengths, interchange, etc? Willie

Hopefully someone that has done stainless trim on a 65 Riviera will jump in here. All I can offer is some general observations and suggestions. Be sure that the trim is stainless. Aluminum trim is almost impossible to repair and buff since it has an anodized coating that is very thin and will give a different look if buffed too aggressively. Some stainless trim IS chrome plated. Some of the trim around the windshield of my 55 CVT is like that, but when buffed thru had a more silvery look than the rest. Also it appears that in this case there was chrome applied on top of the stainless without first copper or nickel plating. If your piece was plated with copper and/or nickel prior to the chrome, try polishing with a paste metal polish on a rag and if the rag has black on it there is copper or nickel there. On some of my earlier attempts at buffing I got some areas too hot and had some blue or brown/yellow spots that were very hard to fix (had to sand again and start all over with the buffing).

"bloody tight" or as mentioned about 90 psi. I lost a left front tire on a 55 Buick and that was no fun. It happened about 15 miles after I had a set of new tires mounted. All of the lugs were loose, but the tire shop blamed it on the fact that I had just painted the rims. I think they just forgot to torque the lugs. Anyhow they paid to make every thing right. Willie

Good Show! Chevy Killer? Where have I heard that before? Five foot trophy and MONEY? Take the money and build a tropy room...you will needed it! Willie

Both of the fuel pumps are backward and forward compatible/interchangeable. The flat top is correct for 53, 54 and early 55 and the dome top is correct for late 55 and 56. On some early models there is interference with the generator adjusting bar and you may need to grind some relief out of the bottom of it. After comparing the gaskets for the 55 vs 56 water pump, I think that those would not be interchangeable. Willie

I needs to be put back. Willie

If you haven't already, check with the supplier...it doesn't hurt to ask. Also check with other suppliers. A few years ago I got a bushing from Buick Specialists (now Buick World). They sent it free (along with another substantial order). Willie

I hate flare fittings! Even new stuff is hard to connect without cross threading...that brings me to my first point. If they are cross threaded they will not tighten to be leak free. Next point use the correct tools; for this you need flare nut wrenchs, sometimes called line wrenches. The wrenches look like a six point box end with and open front. If you use the correct tool just tighten until your knuckles turn white, then try for another 1/4 turn. I hate flare fittings! Willie

??? If this car has the original nailhead, I see no reason for shims. The starter bolts on horizontally, unlike later models that bolted on vertically and may have needed shims. ??? Willie

Hey Lamar Here are 2 opposing arguments: You cannot restore one for twice the price. Convertibles are useless as a 3rd row on a boar hog. Willie