old-tank

Speaking of gel cell batteries I use a brick size gel cell from my deer feeder for bench testing; it is adequate for every thing incuding a non installed starter. Mike knows why I have the gel-cell-in-delco-case unit: the last lead acid one slobbered all over the battery case and surrounding area of my CVT. Mike claims he heard me hollering 60 miles away. Willie

Lars If it runs good and is quiet it may not need rebuilding. Check for abnormal blowby and the crankcase ventilation. Take the breather cap off the oil fill tube and observe any smoke while idling: a little is normal, but alot especially if puffing is not normal. Now rev the engine again and observe: a blast of smoke is not normal. Now plug the oil fill pipe with a rag and rev the engine and observe smoke from the draft tube...it should be the same; if less then the normal ventilation is impaired. If that is the same change oil, install a 180* thermostat and drive 200 miles at freeway speeds and check again. Short trips will cause water to accumulate in the oil and it takes a long time to "cook it out". Hopefully that is all it takes. If the ventilation is inadequate maybe the tube is plugged with a mud dabber nest, but more likely the valley cover is plugged with sludge. This is impossible to clean unless you take it apart by cutting the spot welds on the underside. This thing has some aluminum mesh sandwiched between the upper and lower parts. Any puffing during tests indicate broken rings or a hole in one or more pistons; no change in a blast of smoke means all compression rings are eithe stuck or broken. I drove a 55 Special 365,000 miles, drove it hard and didnot take care of it, so yours may not need a rebuild. Willie

Mike Thanks for the beers. I was thirsty when I got there; that's why we worked so fast to find your problem. Willie

Jesse Just buy the module that fits inside the distributor, that replaces the points. Do not but the 'Flamethower coil', use a stock coil and be sure it is installed as original with resistors if needed in the circuit. I bought the module and flamethrower coil a few years ago and hooked it up bypassing the resistor as suggested by pertonix and it burned the rotor (literally caught fire inside the distributor)! For my application (55 Buick) they now suggest installing as I detailed above. Right now I am using points/condensor. Willie

Bill I alway pump the plunger as NTX stated and even if I spin the oil pump there is still noise for awhile. Since the engine has been running just install and then spin the engine with the starter (coil disconnected) until the oil pressure is up. Hook up the coil and enjoy the smoke again. Willie

I thought that I would be smart and look in the judging manual...page 34. The rim size, type and alternate size for mid 50's Buick is all FUBAR!! I believe that Lamar's post is the closest to correct. Group 5.803 in the 1956 parts manual does NOT list a wire wheel as it does in the 1955 manual. Willie

What happened to the Thread about the 2009 national??

Bob When did you get your shoes from NAPA? I checked today and their part number is a variation of the Raybestos number and made by United. I know they used to have Raybestos products such as wheel cylinders. Maybe Willis knows who what brands are available. Willie

Seems that I am adding confusion when talking about fast idle. I meant the increased ground speed of fast idle made more difficult stops. I did not change anything is the master cylinder/power assist portion of the system. The power assist seems to be working as it should. Yesterday I disconnected and plugged the vacuum line to the booster and the brakes were a little worse with a very hard pedal that did not have the normal "feel" of power brakes. I could easily change to different shoes, but without a diagnosis it might be an exercise in futility. These were new shoes, not relined in an old shelf worn box...one suggestion is this is one of the leftover first examples of non-asbestos shoes. Another reason to be suspicious of this is the first shoes that the parts store ordered were relined (same raybestos) in new boxes and the shoes in the 2 sets were visibly different colored linings (the reason I did not take these). I guess this is what I get for 'doing it right'...in earlier times I never checked or turn drums; just replaced shoes and let them adjust to the grooves in the drums...the brakes were a little squirrely at first but were better than this later. Willie

Thanks for the reply. Do the 55 and 56 heads have the same part number? If the chamber is the same size these pistons will work in a 55. Willie

On starter problems always consider a low voltage problem even if it seems mechanical. Check the obvious like battery and cables at both ends, but also any wire or connection in the starter circuit. This might not apply to yours but the 55 has an additional relay between the solenoid and ignition switch that gives trouble due to high internal resistance. On systems without this relay, my local starter/generator/alternator shop adds one to bypass resistance in other parts of the circuit. Willie

Are there any differences in the heads of 54-55-56 322 engines? Anyhow I found a NORS set of 0.030 oversize 56 pistons made by sealed power. A currently manufactured piston from Egge machine has a 1/8" lower dome (a set in one of my Centurys gives only 110# of cranking compression instead of 160-170#...it does run on regular gas but is a slug). I know that the connecting rods on 54 and early 55 are different requiring a different wrist pin. If the 54 and 55 heads have the same part number I will use what I have, otherwise get a set of 56 heads. Thanks in advance. Willie

I have been driving a few months and few thousand miles after rebuilding the brakes on my 55 Century ( previous thread ). Anyhow the car is a bear to stop when the brakes are cold. Even backing out of the garage on fast idle or forward after that I have to stand on the pedal before it literaly groans to a stop. After use and heating the brakes up it stops better than any of my other ones with no fade and always straight stops. The pedal has normal firmness, the power brakes are working normally. I even bled the system again and inspected the shoes. The shoes showed no glazing and good contact pattern. The shoes are RAYBESTOS Part # 197PG. It seems that the friction material is too hard. Any suggestions other than carrying an anchor until the brakes heat up... Willie

http://www.englishautosociety.com/articles.html Some of the same info, but the conclusion at the end suggest that Castrol 20w-50 and 30w are suitable for these old cars...

Correction Both bearings are one year only=1955. The front ball bearing is or was a current production item but is not used in other years. Part numbers: From BCA/Bower bearing/ National seal book Front 5307-W Rear R 1529 EL I have rebuilt 3 of these units, so I guess that makes me an expert...I can give some tips or other part numbers if wanted Willie

Bob There are actually 2 pinion bearings in those old Buick rears. One is a preloaded double row ball bearing and the other is a roller bearing. The ball bearing one is common to many years, but the roller bearing is one year only=1955. I can get you the part numbers tomorrow and maybe a bearing supply place can locate some for you. I have a used roller bearing that is serviceable if needed. Willie

Chris Does the amp meter show a charge when the engine is running? Get the service manual, it will help in situation like this. Right now the possibilities are connection problems, generator problems, voltage regulator problems, battery problems, and to confuse you possible combinations of some of these. Willie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Rebecca, I'm not trying to second guess anyone here but be aware that lacquer thinner is extremely flammable and it's vapors besides being toxic, are, in the right air/vapor mixture, EXPLOSIVE. There are many effective water soluble or emulsifyable cleaners out there that will do the job. Please think about not using thinner, especially in the dry winter air where a static electricity spark could easily turn deadly........Bob. </div></div> Right on. Actually laquer thinner should not be used to "clean" anything that you want to paint. It will not remove oils from the surface; it just pushes it around. There are surface prep products made for this. Willie

"Carefully"=time and patience. Actually it sound easy if you say it quickly. I just looked at a used bead to refresh myself on how I did it...major pia! Gloves(!) screwdrivers for prying, visegrip or other pliers with hardwood blocks for crimping. Start with the straight (less complicated) pieces from the front doors. This took me hours and seclusion from children and others with sensitive ears. And I did kink a rear door piece and had to start over with another piece from a parts car. Most of the other 4dr ht I have seen had the small bead... Willie

Kevin I dug out a 12 year old catalogue and invoice. No separte part numbers, just a kit...I paid $127 then. Willie

Chris All 55 small series 40-60 used weatherstrip on the trunk lid and the large series 50-70 used it on the gutter, so yours is correct in that regard. Gary Walker is an excellent restorer of mid 50's Buicks and with a little detailing yours will easily get a Gold/Senior in BCA judging. Don't worry about the bumpers (hole plugs?) in the gutter...they may not even be noticed by the judges or would only be a one point deduction. Willie

Kevin I bought a kit from one of the 55-56-57 Chevy suppliers...I think it was C&P. It had most of what is required to rebuild including the slotted head screws that you need (except for the rivet that we have been discussing). Just don't tell them that you are going to use it on a Buick! Answers to questions and a friendly attitude will stop abruptly. Willie

Lamar In spite of what the picture address says: http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/8686/56superpq5.jpg it is not a 56 super. It is a 55 or 56 Special or Century 4dr hardtop. The large series have the key hole in the door handle button not on the door; the rear door latch plate on the car is what is found on the small series. Willie

Chris I have never seen the trunk bumper shown in your picture on any my 55's...2 restored one low mileage original and 2 parts cars. Either yours was made in different plant that put them on the gutter instead of the lower lid or someone took some liberties in restoration. The ones on the cowl lace should be available for the 2 companies that I mentioned and maybe also from Restoration Specialties and supply. Willie

Pete I use an appropriate size piece of exhaust pipe. I have a collection of differnt sizes that I got from the scrap pile at a muffler shop. Put piece of 2x4 over the free end, get a big ol' hammer... There probably is a specific tool made for this. Willie