old-tank

Replace the hoses, just to remove that variable. Be sure the shoe with the short lining is facing towards the front of the car on all 4 wheels. That 3/4 inch bore master cylinder will actually develope higher braking pressure than a one inch bore. Raybestos brand linings gave me the same trouble on a 55 Century with power brakes. Custom linings can be installed that have better friction properties. Willie

...and pick a shade you want to look at. The same goes for Dover white. The creamy Dover white below Cherokee Red on my CVT would not look good next to Gulf Turquoise or Cadet Blue on my other 55's so I had it tinted to be complementary to those colors. Willie

I don't know about your exact situation, but I have seen GM pumps mated to Ford box and vice-versa with no issues. You will probably need to have custom hoses made and custom mount. The stock pumps were used by many GM cars for a few years and are available if yours is completely shot. They can be refreshed easily with inexpensive parts. See this page on my web site HERE. Willie

I finally remembered that I have a 58 Flightpitch manual. So I looked at the torque ball section and there are no adjustments during assembly. It uses the same outer torque ball retainer, but uses 'sealing rings' instead of gaskets and shims. Willie

You probably need a new battery. But before you condemn it charge it for 12-24 hours. One or two hours is enough for 12v batteries, but 6v needs a long charge to bring up to full capacity. Willie

yes

DYNAFLOW TRANSMISSION TORQUE BALL SEAL BOOT KIT 1953-1955<----do not use this one unless you have the original metal outer torque ball retainer, want to spent hours adjusting, and then have leaks as a reward for your troubles. The other kits will serve you well. Other vendors with quality products are Fatsco and Bob's Automobilia. Willie

The parts from Fatsco are good quality and will serve you well (I was referring to different New Jersey boys). I just put mine together with the gaskets, never check the pull, and just drive it (thousands of miles a year). The outer torque ball retainer with the vulcanized rubber came out in I think 1957. Maybe someone with a 57 or 58 manual can check the procedure. My retired transmission mentor says to just slap it together and drive it...and practice apparently shows it works. Willie

Mudbone If you are using the outer torque ball retainer with the vulcanized rubber, there is no need to use shims except as gaskets. That adjusting procedure is only if you are using the originally supplied metal outer torque ball retainer. I just apply a little silicone grease to the rubber on the outer torque ball retainer. If you have the outer torque ball retainer with the vulcanized rubber and it is zinc plated as supplied by those obnoxious New Jersey boys it will fail after the rubber swells and detaches. Willie

As long as it is not structural. In the past I have used fiberglass and 'kitty hair' bondo on my 51 F-1 and 30 years later it is still serviceable in daily use. By the way I got a close look at that car and can say that you do good work! Willie

Jerry Remove the wires from the switch and jump together. If the brake lights come on it is the switch. I have never had to bleed the brakes after replacing the switch. Anyhow, bleeding brakes is not that hard and should be done every 2 years to flush the system if recently serviced. If you have very old components replace all hoses, wheel cylinders and master cylinder. These big ol' cars are fun to drive, but it is not fun if they don't stop. Willie

John My 55 CVT is all black, but my other 55's (two model 63 four door hardtops......production examples of Bob's car) have white under red and white under blue. A model 63 parts car is white under green and a model 46R parts car is all green. I guess we'll have to look at the 55's a little closer in July. Willie

Did you mean 1955 code R Titian Red? Or did that make you blush? That's red not pink.

I have only seen that on the interior windshield trim on my CVT. It should not be buffed since the chrome layer is very thin.

Will Your fuel pump may be ok. Sometimes it takes a long time to pump fuel if the system is dry. Try it again with at least 10 gallons of gas in the tank. Pour a small amount of gas into the carb repeatedly to keep it running and it should soon pump and run. The vacuum part of the pump is to assist manifold vacuum so that the wipers don't slow down of stop when accelerating (manifold vacuum drops). Willie

You might consider replacing the whole floor and rocker ( and maybe even the cowl ) as a unit like I did on my 55 CVT. LINK Willie

Mr Mud Now that is impressive! I did good to check pressures with one gauge in 3 or 4 places with the transmission in the car (which is what you should do before removing the dynaflow). I tried turning mine by hand, but could not demonstrate any pressures....just tranny fluid leaking at the torque ball. Willie

Apparently they will: Buick Nailhead 364-401 Part Interchange

Early dynaflows can be pushed or towed in neutral if full of fluid and operational (rear pump must be good)...it can be pushed or pulled to start (15mph in low or 35mph in drive). Hopefully you are not going to push/pull it all the way to Salado and expect us to work in it. There are other activities that get in the way or prevent a good job. If doing it yourself, expect at least a day depending on experience and equipment. Willie

Jim The 2.5 in www BFG from Coker is the only tire that looks right. All of the other available tires in that size are 2.75-3.00 in and don't look right to me. My last set only lasted 15,000 miles (5,000 miles short of my previous 4 sets). If you are going to drive more than 15,000 miles in 5 years consider radials. You can get tires from Diamond Back made with 2.5 in www and they don't cost much more than the BFG. But if you don't drive much, stick with bias ply since around here radials start separating around 6 years. Judging: bias ply. Tip: if you refinish your rims before mounting the new tires have them static balanced with the weights on the back side only. All of mine that I had done that way balanced out as good as dynamic balancing with the weights on both sides --- and they look much better. No definite conclusions yet, but since I put radials on on of my 55's I have had two outer bearing failures in 7,000 miles. I could not tell much difference in handling with radials, but this on a car with all front end components replaced. Willie

The vacuum control on the distributor is connected by tubing to the front of the carburetor...the oil pressure gauge connects by tubing to the fitting on the passenger side rear of the engine between the oil filter and distributor. This will not affect starting, but if hooked up wrong can make a mess. I don't know what that .56 reading means...maybe 5.6v...you did check it at the wire from the firewall to the coil? If that battery is charged it will start the car (the original in 1953 probably had half the power) Willie

Will Enjoy the beer! In order for the usual starting system to work you need functioning and correctly connected generator, voltage regulator, and vacuum switch. If you just want to start it, turn on the key and verify that you have voltage at the coil (it will not be 12v if your ballast resistor is connected --- this is normal). Then jump 12v (+) to the wire that connects the starter relay and the solenoid (on my 55 it is black...); it should crank and start. Be sure the wheels are blocked and that the tranny in in park or neutral since this will bypass the safety switch. Willie

It will fit and function, but I think the connection at the exhaust pipe is different: ball and flare in 56 vs flat flange and gasket in 55...

Try THIS LINK

Buicks and Bluebonnets Tour, April 13-15, 2012. This the 25th annual and should be a great time like all of the other 24. Flier and Registration Party time in Texas!