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Dave@Moon

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Posts posted by Dave@Moon

  1. I am putting together a wiring harness for a customer's 1929 Packard 640 roadster project.  The car came in with Pilot Ray lamps, but the original wiring harness was so cobbled as to be useless in trying to trace what was originally there.

     

    Can someone please tell me how these lights were normally wired in when installed at the dealer?  Did they have a separate switch, or were they wired to the cowl lights and/or headlamps?  Thanks!

  2. On ‎10‎/‎10‎/‎2016 at 8:38 PM, First Born said:

    Probably off topic a tad, but what is an export engine?

     

      Ben

    In 1960 they offered a low-compression (9:1) 364 with thicker head gaskets and a Stromberg WW2 carb.  It was standard with a manual, but an option with the Twin Turbine.  As an option I think it was called the 375E motor, but I heard it more commonly called the "export engine" because overseas fuels frequently didn't have the octane to support 10.5:1 compression in 1960 and therefore that's what was sold for export order.  I went to 4 Nationals and the Flint 100th Anniversary Meet and only ever saw 2 other cars with this engine, one at a local show. 

     

    I loved it.  It performed more than adequately, and still got as much a 17 mpg on regular gas without pinging.B)

    • Like 1
  3. Thanks to all!  It's pretty much a foregone conclusion that I'll be buying these individually. 

     

    I do still live in Cincinnati.  I'm now the Parts Manager for a large restoration garage ( Benhase Restorations, http://www.benhasecarrestorations.com/  ).  The car is one of our customer's, here for a restoration estimate.  A 1960 LeSabre white convertible with red interior, it has an export engine just like my old white hardtop with grey interior that I sold in 2008.  Deja Vu doesn't get much stronger!

    B)

  4. I'm looking for a set of exhaust manifold bolts fro a 1960 368 engine.  All I've been able to find so far are sets that fit the 401-425 motor (with no near designated). 

     

    Does anyone know if those bolts are the same?  If not is there a source or size I should look for instead? 

  5. 10 hours ago, A. Ballard 35R said:

    Dave, thanks for the warning/update. Do you know if SEMA has specific action plans or recommendations? 

    I have yet to hear anyone from a position of influence or authority in this hobby (SEMA or anyone else) advocate anything but a constant, and as yet (and hopefully for the future) fruitless, lobbying for the abandonment of all fuels programs save expanded fossil fuel consumption.  At this point it should be pretty obvious to everyone that that is just not going to happen.  I'm hoping I've missed something, but I've yet to see anything proposed that will protect both old cars and the environment coming from our representatives. 

     

    We probably have another 10 or so years where e10 is still plentiful enough to reliably tour and travel in an antique.  That's not much time to develop and implement a program whereby you can still drive your 1975 Chevy or 1925 Willys.  Beyond that it looks to me that appropriate fuels get fewer and further between, with web sites needed to find them and fuel deserts that need to be avoided.  And it can only get worse from there.

  6. EP Proposal Would Open the Floodgates to Ethanol Blended Fuels Above e15 ,  

    10/5/16, HMN

     

    Now will somebody please start lobbying for access to low-ethanol and/or non-renewable fuels for registered antique cars before it's too late?  It's a matter of time when even e10 is no longer available from currently legal (road taxed) sources.  Even if blend pumps (the intended outcome, and an almost certain eventuality) are implemented, there's no assurance that e10 will survive as an option.  It may be possible to save it as a higher price option, that would discourage it's use in vehicles where it's not needed.  Something has to be done.  In the larger scheme of things "pump gas" isn't going to be gas much longer.

     

    Or are people going to continue to insist that modern cars run on antique fuels indefinitely, just for us (as if that's going to work)?

  7. Oh yeah.  There is a large spacer (fixed, ~3/8" thick) that's supposed to be there behind the starter to adapt to the automatic's flex plate.  That was obtained and installed, but there is still another "spacer" behind the flex plate on this engine (although it goes by another name, adaptor I think).  Without it the howl from starting is terrible.  I found a used one and it's being delivered as I type this.  It should answer the issues we're having.

     

    Thanks for your help!

  8. Does anyone know if a 345 V8 needs a spacer between the flexplate and crankshaft.  If so is there a part number I should look for?  (The flexplate is an NOS piece that was installed and did not change the problem.)  This is for a 1967 Travelall  that has had a 727 Torqueflite from a later model IHC installed at some time in the past, and there are issues with starter alignment. 

     

    Thanks!

  9. 19 hours ago, jeff_a said:

    You should contact Willy Vinton at The Fountainhead Auto Museum in Fairbanks. They have shipped dozens of collector cars back and forth in the last seven years. Maybe he could give you a contact for the company they use.

     

     

    Thanks Jeff.  I sent them an email.  We're getting an absurd number of offers from people I've never heard of, almost all of them the same amount. so any help we can get is needed to pick from them. 

     

    It's harder to trust someone else's car to an unknown than your own.

  10. Has anyone had a good experience with a transporter shipping to/from Alaska?  I am tasked with shipping a car to the Anchorage area from Cincinnati, and none of the carriers I am familiar with (mainly from Hemmings ads) ship to AK.  So far I am only getting responses from brokers whose companies I do not recognize.

  11. We have a 1966 Toronado at the shop with vacuum headlight actuators that need rebuilt, with the diaphragms almost certainly needing replacement.  Is there a service that can do this, or without that is there an available electric conversion kit available so that at least we can get the lights to function?  Thanks!

  12. There are dozens of sports cars from the 1970s and 1980s that are both desirable and collectible.  I have a 1972 Triumph TR6, and the people I know in the club are already complaining that they are being priced out of the market for the better cars.  A $40K TR6 is not unheard of.  Fiat 124s, X 1/9s, Maxda RX7s, first generation Miatas, Alfa Spiders, MG MGBs and Midgets, Triumph Spitfires & GT6s, Jensen Healeys, rear engine VWs, VW GTIs, etc. are all appreciating members of this club.

     

    Then there are the odd balls.  Subaru BRATs, Dodge Rampages, SVO Mustangs, Taurus SHOs, Dodge Spirit R/Ts, virtually any 2 door non-Renault AMC, special edition I H Scouts, Dodge Little Red Trucks & Warlocks, all rotary engine Mazdas, Subaru SVX, etc. 

     

    Finally there are the harbinger cars.  The 1955 Chevys and 1932 Fords of that era in that they foretold the future.  Toyota Corollas & Hi-Lux pickups, Datsun 510s & 411 pickups, K-Cars, first generation (1984) Jeep (AMC) Cherokees, etc.  Most of these were disposable and frankly some may be gone already.  Rarity will enhance their historical value.  When was the last time you saw a mint Subaru Justy?

     

    While many of these may have been less than perfect cars, they are never the less unique to their era and therefore interesting..., and likely valuable soon if not now.

    • Like 1
  13. I wonder....If I just drive on back roads and not on highways... :P  

    ...and if we had a hobby with the foresight and guts to point out that that is what we do anyway, and that it wouldn't put a noticeable dent in tax revenue if our cars used the stuff.... :)

     

    But I guess that's too much for some to imagine. 

     

    BTW, e10 isn't going anywhere for a long while, but it is going.  Don't expect 20 years from now to be routinely buying the same stuff at the pump you buy today.  In the mean time your daily drivers are safe, and will be antiques themselves before they are not.  Also if anyone thinks this is being done as an economic decision in any sense they simply aren't paying attention.  You know why it's being done, and that it's an ever improving ongoing process/technology.  Instead of fighting over what's happening now try looking at where this is going. 

    • Like 1
  14. You guys are still tilting at this windmill?  :wacko:

     

    Constantly pining about how fuels aren't staying antique for our cars isn't helping anyone, and conveniently ignoring that corn is an interim feedstock to make biofuels only emphasizes the emptiness of the arguments.

     

    A year and a half ago, the last time I weighed in on this silly debate, there were 2 pilot cellulosic ethanol plants tentatively operating in the U.S., and DuPont had just abandoned the paint market to pursue biofuels. There are now 16 operating plants in the U.S. making ethanol that never saw a corn kernel.  Does anyone really think that  continuing to shovel the tide back is helping?

     

    Meanwhile has anyone done anything to assure access to fuels that won't hurt our antiques once "pump gas" isn't gasoline any more?  I haven't heard one word about efforts made to allow legal access to av-gas or marina fuels for registered antiques. 

     

    It took about 20 years of commercial development for crude oil distillates to displace whale oil in the marketplace 150 years ago.  How much longer are we going to let the ethanol clock tick?  Something has to be done, but it has to be something a lot smarter than thinking we're the ones who can hold sway against the rest of society and (admit it) progress.

     

    =====================

     

    BTW, nobody but nobody outside the hobby gives a rat's behind about your pot metal carburetor, or mine.  Beyoncé was in 4th grade when the last carbureted car was sold in the U.S., and she's about 10 years away from the R&R Hall of Fame today.  It's almost impossible to find one in daily use any more.

  15. 09A-18403-L

    I am looking for a left side cowl mount mirror for a 1940 Mercury convertible.  An NOS piece is preferred (of course), and a quality later reproduction (Bob Drake made these until about 6-7 years ago) would be fine as well.  Otherwise I will consider a good used mirror that is a candidate for rechroming, 

     

    The Ford part number for this mirror is:09A-18403-L.

     

    Thanks for any help that can be provided.

     

  16. At the shop right now we are working on an all original 1957 Black Widow.  The car has a factory 3 speed manual 1957 Corvette transmission with a unique adapted shifter to the 1957 Chevy 150 chassis. 

     

    The car has a leaking seal in the shifter, alternatively known by some here as a sector shaft seal and as a pitman shaft seal.  It's only a small rubber ring, but it is proving VERY difficult to find as there were VERY few of these shifters made. 

     

    Has anyone had any experience finding a seal for an older Chevy racing shifter like this one?  I've tried all the usual suspects, Chevy and Corvette specialists, and come up empty.  Even if just a part number is known that would be a BIG help.

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