Jim

Stay tuned to the Reatta div. newsletter and this thread. Most likely there will be some good news for owners of modified Reattas.

Stay tuned to the Reatta div. newsletter and this thread. Most likely there will be some good news for owners of modified Reattas.

With 182K you car is probably not worth fixing and if you have insurance the company will definitely total it. I have all the parts but there would be some shipping costs. I would recommend, since you are not too far from Winston Salem, that you contact Bob, Progoofoff for the parts.

I do have all the parts but if you need both fenders, hood, bumper assembly, parking lights and headlights you are looking at about $ 1000 in just parts plus labor. With this amount of damage your car will be totalled by the insurance company and you can either take a check from them and they will take the car or you can take a check from them less the salvage value of the car and then keep the car and fix it yourself. If you do need parts, I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I have parted out quite a few Reattas and have Reatta parts. I also have pictures of most of the parts so if you send me an email with the parts pictures you are looking for I can probably email you the pictures. Jim jfinn@cpinternet.com

I am not sure which connectors you unplugged but I would suggest putting them back ASAP as some of those connectors are needed for the regular braking and the power braking feature. If you want to disable the ABS function, on the drivers side in the trunk behind the padding is the ABS computer. Disconnect that connector. On a side note if your brake fluid has not been changed in the last couple of years it is very important that you do so. Dirty fluid is VERY harmful to the Teves system. I just bought a VW and they recommend changing the fluid every year.

Alive and well at home. I will call you or send an email.

He is alive and well in Florida. We sent some emails back and forth and I sent him some parts on Oct 31. His email is the same as always.

The accumulators and pump/motors are getting to be a problem I see more and more. As the accumulators are getting older they are loosing their nitrogen charge and causing the pump/motors to run more often and the motors are going bad. The way the system works is the pressure switch sees a low pressure and starts the pump building up 2600 pounds of pressure in the accumulator. A good accumulator is good for about 7 quick pumps of the pedal without the red light coming on. If your red light comes on with one two or three pumps then your accumulator is shot and your pump is running much more than it should and will cause the motor to wear out. You need to replace the accumulator. I very often see accumulators in junk yards and used to buy them but unless they have a white label on them saying "Made in Belgium" or "Made in Germany" I do not even touch them and even then you are not assured of getting a good one. Of the last 20 accumulators I have bought in junk yards only one was just OK. I recently bought 5 pump/motor, pressure switch and accumulator assemblies in junk yards and of the 5 all the accumulators were no good and two of them fluid ran out when I took them off the pump meaning the diaphragm inside had a hole in it. Two of the pressure switches were no good and one of the pumps was no good. Like my other post about the headlight switches I am only posting this to make people aware of buying used accumulators, motors and pressure switches that have not been tested. I do have some good pumps and pressure switches but no accumulators. I recently bought a new accumulator from GM for about $ 130 and sent it to a fellow in Switzerland. Do the brake test at Reatta.net and get yourself a good accumulator. CHANGE YOUR BRAKE FLUID EVERY FEW YEARS AND IF IT HAS NEVER BEEN DONE DO IT NOW.

There are always a lot of headlight switches showing up on Ebay and I would be very weary of buying one of them. I have had lots of experience with these switches and buying a used one that has not been fully tested is very risky. Two things go wrong with these switches. The parking lights will not go off when pushing the off switch after the headlights have been on or you have to punch the off button to make them go off. The other problem is the background lights on the headlight switch module, the wiper module and the CRT might not come on when the headlights are turned on. When I buy these switches I only have about a 10% success rate of getting a good one. When I get one that does not shut off correctly or the background lights do not light I take them apart and spray the contacts inside. I then retest them. If they still do not work correctly I then completely disassemble the module and actually sand and clean the contacts and the try testing again. Sometimes I then have success but most of the time not. I currently have about 25 switches in my cabinet that look great but will not work and at the moment I do not have any good ones available. I see these switches going on Ebay for pretty good money but I am sure very few of them are actually working correctly. I have no interest in killing some Ebay sales as I do not have any for sale myself at this time but post this as a warning to switch buyers. Ask the seller if the switch has been fully tested and these points addressed.

This is the same seller that had a window switch for an '88-89 for sale with the sort of same description "in good condition as seen in the picture". He showed the picture of a window switch but the top black label was missing and the white plastic underneath was all that was there. This black label is a foil material and very hard to glue back on without wrinkles.

The two connectors that go on the rear of the CRT? Send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I wonder if you may have burned out one of the fuseable links. They are located coming out of the red splice box and generally are behind the radiator reservoir bottle. They are crimped on the ends and pretty hard to check because with a volt or ohm meter you can get back feeds. On most of them there are two or three crimped together at the red splice box and then they go their separate ways. The BCM is the body control module and is located behind the glove box and mounted vertically. It has a square cover on it and two black connectors and one connector is red. The ECM is the engine control module also sometimes called the PCM or power control module and is the same size and looks almost identical but is mounted vertically below the glove box and instead of a square cover has a long narrow cover. It has two black connectors and one orange connector. The above applies to the '88-90s. The '91 ECM has two black connectors and one green connector. The BCM has two tan connectors and one red connector. The CPS is much smaller and has one grey connector on it. It also has a label on it saying central power supply.

Troy, I didn't realize this was you. From my experience when the IPC is black and reads error and 00 it is the IPC itself or a dirty connection on the rear of the IPC where it plugs into the dash. On the 88-89 Reattas the most common part to go bad is the CRT and the IPCs are pretty good. On the '90-91s the IPC is the most common part to go bad and when they do they go black and read error and 00. I think you mentioned you replaced the IPC but it is possible you got a bad one. Jim

I have both and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Since I sell Reatta parts I don't like to speculate what could be causing a particular problem unless I am certain the problem can be resolved with a particular part. An example is if a persons blower is running all the time even with the key shut off it is the blower control module on the engine side of the firewall. If you do determine you need a BCM I have some good ones and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

You have to remove the whole dash to replace the emergency brake pedal assembly.

Probably Riviera, Toronado and a small Cadillac. I have lots of good used radiators and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I agree to switch is back. I sell Reatta parts but rarely look at the buy/sell forum. Maybe once every two weeks.

The dimmer switch is mounted near the bottom of the column and is held to the column by a couple of screws. A rod comes down from the arm to operate the switch. Your switch could need adjusting or be bad. I do have a good one if you need it and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

This is the honest to goodness God's truth. This morning just before leaving home at about 9 AM I read the first message but didn't have time to reply. As I was driving home a few hours later I thought of this post and thought to myself, "this guy must be a Packer fan" with all the bad spelling, bad or no punctuation and sentences that all ran together and didn't make sense. I got home and thought I would check the forum and when I read the last post saying the poster was from Kenosha I just laughed to myself. Being at the moment in a feisty mood I just couldn't help but share my thoughts. Maybe this is a relative of the person who sent me an email a few years ago saying "I was wantin to know what you was wantin for -------" I guess I will loose a potential customer, oh well. P.S. Thank you to all who recommended me for parts especially the ones in the land of green and gold.

That's it, the module on the left side of the IPC.

My son an electrical engineer and computer expert agrees. He hates Internet Explorer and likes Firefox and every time he comes home he tells me I should switch.

'88-90 Reattas used the Teves ABS as did several other cars in those years. It is VERY important to change the fluid every few years. 1. It is HIGHLY recommended that all the fluid in the whole system be changed with new fluid to eliminate any built up moisture in the system. 2. Any time the brake hydraulic system is to be opened the brake pedal should be pumped 25 times with the key off to bleed off the 2600 pounds of pressure in the accumulator. 3. Siphon out as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir and refill with clean fluid to the top. Another good way is to cut the rubber hose that comes from the reservoir right where it attaches to the ABS pump and let all the fluid in the reservoir run out. Then remove the piece of hose still attached to the pump and reinstall the rubber hose. It is long enough to do this. I like to cut it rather than try and remove it because the hose sticks really hard to the plastic fitting and you might break the fitting trying to take the hose off. Doing it this way you get all the fluid out of the reservoir before putting in new clean fluid. 4. When doing the rear wheels only let out about a half of a cup and then refill the reservoir. This is to make sure you don't take out too much and get air into the system. 5. To bleed the front brakes have the key off and bleed in a conventional method. Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while the other person opens the front bleeders. 6. To bleed the rear brakes A. Turn on the key and allow the system to pressurize B. Have an assistant slightly depress the pedal and hold it. C. Open each rear bleeder, one at a time, and hold open until clear fluid comes out. (The pump and motor will do the bleeding) When you are done there are high and low marks on the reservoir and after the system pump and motor has run and the lights are out the level should be at the low mark. When you have pumped the brakes with the key off 25 times the level will be at the high mark.

99% of the time it is the headlight switch module. Everytime I see one of them going on Ebay for a high price I shudder, as from experience in picking up used ones, only about 1 in 10 will actually work as is. You can take them apart and clean the contacts and about 50% of the time you will be successful.