Jim

I am going to be away from home starting this Thursday for about 10 days.

John, Where ever you are taking your car to get it fixed STOP. Don't go to the "chain" shops or the GM dealer. Find a local mechanic and I can supply you with any parts you might need at very reasonable prices. I will be away from home though starting this Thursday for about 10 days. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

If it is less than 1/8 inch above the line after you have pumped the pedal at least 25 times I wouldn't worry about it. If it is more than that I would siphon out a little. I have good used pressure switches and pump/motors available but now days there is almost no such thing as a good used accumulator. When doing the tests if your red light comes on in less than 3 or less pumps you should get a new accumulator as your pump is running more often than it was designed to and will wear out faster.

The wheel bearings are a sealed unit and nothing can be done with them as preventive maintenance. If you hear a noise coming from the front end, while driving, turn the steering slightly one way or the other and if the noise goes away, you have a bad bearing and need to replace it.

I have a pretty nice green '91 that I would sell at a very reasonable price. I think the mileage is about 150K but will check. If you are interested send my an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com Please include your phone number and I can call you if you wish. Jim

As to the leather case. Bob Neuman who is one of the founding fathers of the Reatta division, a reciepient of the Bob Peterson award for his work with the Reatta division and who did most of the work for the 2003 Flint meet and again is doing lots of work for the upcomming Flint meet, mentioned to me a few months ago he could use an empty folder. He has all the contents but a bad folder. Please hold on to it until I can contact Bob to see if he still needs it and either he or I will get back to you. Thanks, Jim

Unfortunately not deep enough. I can even see all my Reatta parts car. I have two newer snowmobliles and about two weeks ago my grandson and I went riding on my mountain sled with the 2 inch paddle track and the engine kept overheating because there wasn't enought snow to kick up to the coolers. I went on an antique snowmobile ride last Saturday with one of my old sleds and there was enought for that. I am glad I wasn't sitting in the 12 hour traffic jam on I 90 not to far from you this week, because of all the snow down your way.

I talked to Tom on the phone and he does have some '91 center caps. He will be home next Wednesday 2/13/08

Tom is away from home this week and probably does not have access to a computer. Try this post again in about a week.

Here are the instructions for programming the remote(s). Note if you only have one remote you do the proceedure twice as if you have two remotes. I have been parting out Reattas for more than 10 years and if I can help on any parts please send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com Before starting this procedure, BOTH transmitters must be present. Failure to use both transmitters will render the missing transmitter inoperative. If the customer uses only one transmitter on the vehicle, use this transmitter as transmitter 1 and 2. The entire reprogramming sequence must be completed within 30 seconds of grounding the connector. If the procedure is not completed, remove the ground at the connector and restart the procedure from step 1 1. Ignition "ON" 2. Ground green single wire connector ( located near the ABS module in the trunk. 3. Wait for the door locks to lock and unlock ( should take 2 seconds) 4. Press the "unlock" button on the first transmitter twice ( pauses for one second between presses) 5. Wait for door locks to lock and unlock ( should take 2 seconds) 6. Press the "unlock" button on the second transmitter twice ( pause for one second between presses) 7. Wait for door locks to lock and unlock ( should take 2 seconds) 8. Remove ground from green conector

Wally, I have some good radiators. I will send you a PM. Jim

If your instrument panel is going black, the speedometer, tach, gauges etc. that is the most common item to go bad in the '90-91 Reattas. I do have a good instrument panel cluster ( IPC ) as well as most any other part for a Reatta. The are pretty easy to change. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

The headlight switches can be a problem on the '89 Reattas. There are several things that can go wrong. Sometimes when shutting off the headlights the parking lights will stay on and you have to hit the off switch harder to get them off. Another problem is the small background lights on the other switches do not come on and this is due to a faulty headlight switch module. The slider for the dimming of the interior lights can also be a problem. I often purchase these switches in junk yards and have found only about one in six or eight will be in good working condition. You can sometimes find them on Ebay but that is the one part I would recommend not buying on Ebay because they are so prone to having problems. I do have a good working as well as appearing switch module as well as most any other part for a Reatta and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Actually it wasn't touching a Viking nerve at all. It was a golden opportunity to point out the wackiness of the Packer fans. I wanted to bring it up to my Reatta/Packer fans but didn't want to rub the loss in their noses on my own but couldn't resist once someone else started the football ball rolling. The reason I don't like the Packers is their fan are the epitome of fanatics. There was an article in the Duluth MN paper about a woman teacher from Superior WI who teaches here in Duluth. To me she is typical of the fanaticism of the Packer fans. Her home is completely green and yellow and her classroom is all green and yellow. She brings the Pack into her teaching of her fourth graders. This was all her pictures and her interviews with the reporter. One of her statements was she has young Vikings fans in the class and if the Pack loses to the Vikings the next Monday she writes on the black board that they are not going to discuss it. She pushes her Packer crap on these young kids 9 months of the year but won't even discuss it when the Pack loses. Packer fans need to realize that God, family and work are more important than a football game but it is the other way around to most of them.

In response---------- Very fitting that the record holder for the most bad decisions AKA most interceptions, would throw a bad pass and lose the game for his teammates and all the wackos sitting on their hands in -5 degrees to watch it happen.

I have in my possession a complete rust free rear clip from a convertible. It was cut at the rocker panels. The clip is in Duluth MN. The owner of the clip is George Madsen. He can be reached at georgemadsen@att.net

There is one bolt holding the pump/motor to the brake unit. Pump the pedal at least 25 times and maybe 40 if your accumulator is weak. You will need to remove the hose from the rear of the pump that goes up to the bottom of the reservoir. DO NOT TRY AND TWIST AND PULL IT OFF as you will probably break the plastic elbow on the back of the pump. At the pump end of the hose cut the hose off about one inch from the end and then plug the hose as fluid will want to leak out. Then remove the steel line, or hose on the '88s, on top of the pump and then take the bolt out and the pump/motor, accumulator and pressure switch will be in your hand. You can then slice lengthwise the remaining piece of hose on the elbow and throw it away. There is plenty of length on the hose to do this several times. I do have good working ABS pumps if someone needs one and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Bill, I do have some locks and extra keys. Please send me an email at jinn@cpinternet.com

I agree this is not the best looking one I have ever seen but at the 2003 meet in Flint there was a coupe there painted yellow with black stripes and the interior had been redone in yellow and black with as I recall bumble bee accents. It was a VERY nice looking car. I think the owner was from Ohio and hope he brings it again this summer to Flint.

The weights were only installed on the '91 convertibles and not the '90s. It is my understanding there was a recall from GM to remove them from the '91 convertibles although some still exist.

When computerized cars sit for a long time or with a dead battery for a while the ECM needs to relearn all the information from all the sensors on the engine. Take the car out and drive it for about 2 miles and it should start idling just fine.

I do and I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

When you have an electronic part rebuilt you still have basically a used part. Unlike mechanical parts that are rebuilt with all new wearable parts electronic parts when they are rebuilt are just a used part that had one bad component replaced, tested and then sent back out. You are just as susceptible to failure in the future. With the key on or engine running you should be on the summary screen. If your radio is playing try touching the screen in the upper left corner and try and raise or lower the volume. It this happens your CRTC and BCM are probably good and your CRT went bad again. I do have good CRT/touch screens, BCMs and CRTCs and can be reached at jfinn@cpipnternet.com

Bob, I am glad you got to talk to some of your old Reatta friends and got the pewter model for your collection. Thank you for the nice Christmas card and I would also like to wish all the very nice people, I have been fortunate to meet through Reatta ownership, a very merry Christmas. Jim

One of the tests is to step on the brake pedal several times is rapid succession and see when the red light comes on. It should come on in about 6-7 pumps with a very good accumulator. If it comes on at about 3-4 pumps that is OK if it comes on in one or two pumps your accumulator is shot and your pump/motor is working many times harder than it is supposed to and will soon wear out. Finding a good used accumulator is almost impossible. I recently bought about 25 of them in junk yards and only one was a 3-4 pumper. The rest went in the garbage. New from GM is about the only way to go and they are about $ 140. I do have good used pump/motors and pressure switches. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com