Jim

If you did not see any brake fluid next to the pins inside the connector on the pressure switch it still could be bad. Next time the red light stays on with the key on, put your hand on the pump motor and you should feel is slightly vibrating, running. If not you can tap on the motor and it might start. If it does, the motor/pump is probably bad although since the pressure switch is mounted directly above this taping might also cause the pressure switch to work and start the pump. If you decide you want either a pump/motor or pressure switch send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I have several Reatta parts cars and always have good used ABS assemblies available as well as ABS parts. Dave is right. If your red light is on you may only need the pressure switch or pump. The red light is telling you the pressure is low or non-existant. Now days there is almost no such thing as a good used accumulator but they are still available new from GM for about $ 140. As our cars are getting older the accumulators are getting bad and that causes the pump to run more often and wear out sooner. The pressure switch does go bad and when it does it will not start the pump. One good way of checking is to remove the connector on the pressure switch and look inside next to the pins. If there is even the smallest drop of moisture ( brake fluid ) in there the switch is bad. The pressure switch is mounted just above the pump/motor. I have pressure switches and pump/motors available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I have several Reatta parts cars and always have good used ABS assemblies available as well as ABS parts. Dave is right. If your red light is on you may only need the pressure switch or pump. The red light is telling you the pressure is low or non-existant. Now days there is almost no such thing as a good used accumulator but they are still available new from GM for about $ 140. As our cars are getting older the accumulators are getting bad and that causes the pump to run more often and wear out sooner. The pressure switch does go bad and when it does it will not start the pump. One good way of checking is to remove the connector on the pressure switch and look inside next to the pins. If there is even the smallest drop of moisture ( brake fluid ) in there the switch is bad. The pressure switch is mounted just above the pump/motor. I have pressure switches and pump/motors available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I have several green '91s and the factory code is WA9806. The PPG deltron number is DBU 4457sc. The color is listed as a '92 and up color probably because '91 Reattas were the only GM car that used that color that year and they were very low production.

I have several green '91s and the factory code is WA9806. The PPG deltron number is DBU 4457sc. The color is listed as a '92 and up color probably because '91 Reattas were the only GM car that used that color that year and they were very low production.

I also saw the pins on Ebay and the guy wanting a starting bid of $ 49 for a set of 10. I have lots of them and usually give them away free to someone buying other parts from me.

As John and Howard mentioned, I do have latches in most colors and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com Your lock cylinders can be put into the new latches so you can continue to use the original keys.

There are two thing that go wrong with the headlight motors. The nylon rollers inside the gear box portion of the assembly and the bellcrank on the output shaft of the motor. The bellcranks are still available new from GM but are about $100. The best solution is to buy a kit from Barney Eaton. His kit is $ 45 and includes the rollers, an upstop nut and a reproduction bellcrank made of steel that will not wear out like the originals. Barney can be reached at barney@texas.net I have many Reatta parts cars and can supply most any other part and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I guess I really don't understand the problem because you said "and whole seat moves forward and backward) everything works ok, but neither seat will move forwards and backwards." Anyway, the motors do not go bad very often but the connector under the seat will corrode sometimes. There is a flat 6 pin connector under either seat. Unplug and replug it in a few times and there is a very good chance the seat will start moving again.

After filling the reservoir you will probably need leave the steel ( 89-90 ) /fabric ( '88 ) line on top of the pump/motor assembly loose and you should also screw on the accumulator but leave it a little loose. Have someone turn on the key and the pump will start. Watch the base of the accumulator and where the line attaches and when fluid starts to come out, shut off the key and tighten the accumulator and line. The pump is a fluid pump and needs to be initially bled to get the air out of the pump. The pump will not work with air in it. 1. It is HIGHLY recommended that all the fluid in the whole system be changed with new fluid to eliminate any built up moisture in the system. 2. Any time the brake hydraulic system is to be opened the brake pedal should be pumped 25 times with the key off to bleed off the 2600 pounds of pressure in the accumulator. 3. Siphon out as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir and refill with clean fluid to the top. Another good way is to cut the rubber hose that comes from the reservoir right where it attaches to the ABS pump and let all the fluid in the reservoir run out. Then remove the piece of hose still attached to the pump and reinstall the rubber hose. It is long enough to do this. I like to cut it rather than try and remove it because the hose sticks really hard to the plastic fitting and you might break the fitting trying to take the hose off. Doing it this way you get all the fluid out of the reservoir before putting in new clean fluid. 4. When doing the rear wheels only let out about a half of a cup and then refill the reservoir. This is to make sure you don't take out too much and get air into the system. 5. To bleed the front brakes have the key off and bleed in a conventional method. Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while the other person opens the front bleeders. 6. To bleed the rear brakes A. Turn on the key and allow the system to pressurize B. Have an assistant slightly depress the pedal and hold it. C. Open each rear bleeder, one at a time, and hold open until clear fluid comes out. (The pump and motor will do the bleeding) When you are done there are high and low marks on the reservoir and after the system pump and motor has run and the lights are out the level should be at the low mark. When you have pumped the brakes with the key off 25 times the level will be at the high mark.

Turn on the key and on your ECC ( climate control module ) push the "off" and temperature up ( up arrow ) at the same time and hold them until the car goes into the diagnostic mode. You will see all of the lights on the IPC light up and the trouble codes will then be read out where the mileage usually is. Write down the codes as they go by. They go by pretty fast so write them down quickly and watch for the next. First you will get the engine codes eg. Exxx, then you will get the body codes eg. Bxxx then some IPC codes eg. Rxxx and maybe an SIR code. If any code has an "h" after it that means it is a code in history and not current. No "h" means it is a current code. After all the codes have displayed you will get a Ec? this means do you want to diagnose the engine computer. Pressing the Fan down arrow you will be telling the computer no, the fan up arrow means yes. If you did get any Ec codes and you want to clear them, when you get the Ec? push yes and then it will ask you questions, keep pushing no until it asks if you want to clear the E codes then push yes. If you have no E codes and/or want to go to the B codes when it asks you Ec? push the fan down button for no and it will then ask you Bc, and you can push yes. It will then ask you questions and you continue pushing no until it ask CLR b code and you push the up fan for yes. You cannot hurt anything or screw up anything by doing this and if you make a mistake simply turn off the key and start over or push the bi-level button next to the fan switch.

The Teves unit is only about a 15 pound deduction. All years use an EBCM so that is the same. The Teves unit on the firewall weighs 23 pounds but the '91s have the Bosch unit mounted on the left front frame rail and I am guessing this unit weighs about 10 pounds.

Very good answer. I have seen this problem with cars that sit for a while with a low level of gas in the tank. The rub area on the sending unit will dry and corode a little. I have had good luck simply filling and running the tank down a few times to clean the corrosion off the slide area.

Thanks John, that was exactly what I was looking for. I passed all the info on to the person in Canada that needed it including buying one on Ebay or directly from Helm.

I have several shop manuals for myself but someone asked me for some information from a manual. I have seen many times folks here referring to a shop manual being available on line but can someone tell me where to find it so I can pass on the information.

I have a good one and will ship to Canada. Send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Walt, I will go out and take some pictures this morning and email them to you. Jim

Re. Idk on this PLEASE any ideas? I have an idea, how about grammar, punctuation and spelling classes so we can understand what you are saying in this post.

I have also seen several times on the '88-89s where the wires will burn behind the headlight switch. I am not sure what causes this but I do have several parts and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

No

All you need for tools are a Phillips screw driver, a regular screw driver, and a # 10 socket. Pry off the caps on the ends of the door pulls, they are held on with little tabs on the top and bottom of them. Remove the door pull with the 2 # 10 bolts. Remove the Phillips screw behind the door handle and then the black plastic cup and then remove the Phillips screw that holds the door lock switch and then the switch from it's connector. When replacing it make sure the stud lines up with the slot on the back of the switch assembly. With the help of a flat screw driver carefully push the seat switches on the door panel arm rest towards the back of the door and then you will see that the front of the switch mechanism can be lifted up and then forward and away from the arm rest. Remove the gray connector from the switch by prying a little at a time at both ends. The connector is just held on by pressure on the contacts. If you fold back the rubber protector a little you will see where the connector attaches to the switch. Be careful to not short out the contacts when prying it off. The door panel is held on by some plastic studs, so by starting at the bottom and working the bottom and both side the you can pull the panel away from the door. When you have the panel loose from the door do not let it drop to the ground but reach behind and unplug the connector from the light on the rear of the panel and also pull out carefully the single connector that goes directly into the light body. When the motor runs fine but the window goes up and down some but then makes noise and quits moving, the regulator portion of the motor/regulator has stripped teeth and needs to be replaced. I have several Reatta parts cars and have a good motor/regulator available. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I do have a good ECC for your '90. It is common for some of the buttons to quit working. I have heard of people taking it apart and attempting to clean the contacts but I have not had any success doing it. The reason is there is a rubber cover sealed over the contacts and I can see no way of getting a spray or anything else into that area. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Jim mentioned he had 1157s in there. I believe they used the 2057s in all sockets even though some of those positions did not require a dual filement bulb. I was recently changing some bulbs in my '39 Buick street rod and there were 1157s in those sockets but from parting out many Reattas I only had 2057 bulbs which I put in the '39 and they seem to work fine. My question is what is the difference between an 1157 and a 2057.

I wouldn't worry so much about the lights but would be concerned about the brake lights being on occasionally. The pressure switch is located on top of the pump/motor and in front of the accumulator. Remove the connector and look inside. If you see any leakage near the pins your switch is bad. Even the tiniest drop of fluid means your pressure switch is bad and could cause the symptoms you describe. I do have a good pressure switch available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I have some and would sell them for less than the current bid on Ebay. I will be away from home for the next 10 days but can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com