Jim

Nic, Right up your alley. I have had them for several years and I think they were in a grey '90 when I got them.

In one of my parts cars was a set of floor mats and I was wondering if anyone had ever seen a set like this before. On the back is some ID marks similar to the ones GM uses.

I have a good one available. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

1 There is probably nothing wrong with the engine. It is VERY common for the engine to run rough and die when the battery has been sitting dead for some time. I am sure, from experience, all you need to do is drive the car for about 5 miles. When the battery went dead, the computers lost all their retained memory and in starting the car and letting it idle this will not tell the computers anything. You need to drive the car. 5 You are going to have to replace the cables that drive the sunroof. They are available new from Mazda for about $ 150 but you will not need to have this fixed for any state testing. 2,3,4 and 6 I and Barney Eaton can help on these parts. Send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com and I can give you prices.

I normally do not post when I have parts for sale because most folks on this forum know I do so I usually just respond when someone is looking for a part. The other day I almost sold by mistake a seat belt escutcheon that is very rare. I do want to sell them but they only fit very early '88s. These seat belt escutcheons are tan and are the plate up on the B piller that the seat belt goes through. What makes these different is there is no screw hole and only used on the very early Reattas. These are tan but could be painted if someone with another color interior needed some or just wanted some spares. I would think someone would look for a very long time to find a replacement if one was needed. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

If the originator of this thread does not have the parts for the last two posts, I do. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com and please include your zip code for shipping purposes. I have several hoods and may have the right color. Jim

I have both of the parts you are looking for. Email me at jfinn@cpinternet.com and please include the color of your car and your zip code. Jim

Dave, I replied to your email. Mort, I replied to your email. Scott, I sent you an email on 4/24 that you could reply to. If you are not getting to me you will need to check with your ISP as I also checked my spam filtering and there was nothing there from you. I do not like to use the PM system but in this case send me a PM and I will reply that way. Jim

I checked that IPC post and my email address there is correct. I also checked my spam filtering and there was only bogus emails there. I am guessing something is wrong with your ISP. I have your email address in my email program and will send you and email and I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Ron, The IPC is the most common part to go bad on the '90-91 Reattas and when it does it will go black and have a 0 or a 00 where the odometer usually is. It can also be intermittant like yours. I have heard of folks cleaning the connector on the back of the IPC with some success but from my experience it is the IPC itself. I have good IPCs and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com It is pretty easy to remove the IPC from the car. In the upper corners of the air vents you will see a couple of torx screws and there may also be two of them above the steering column holding in place the bezel in front of the IPC, ECC and radio. The rest of the bezel is held to the dash by some push-in tabs on the back of the bezel. Remove these screws and the pull the bezel away from the IPC, ECC and radio using a pulling and wiggling method. Be sure to grab both the black face and it's chrome edging as these are two piece bonded together. After removing the bezel you will see the IPC is held in with 4 screws, two on each side. Remove these screws and the IPC can be pulled away from the dash. There is one connector in the rear and the IPC will just unplug.

I was going to stay away from this thread but decided to put in my 2 cents worth. Open the hood and watch the end of the motor shaft that should have a knob on it for manual operation. If this knob/shaft turns when the headlight are trying to go up or down, your motor if fine and you either need the bellcrank on the output shaft of the motor/gear box or the rollers inside the gear box or both. Get the kit from Barney. If you need a motor I have good used ones with good or new rollers installed. You will still have to get the bellcrank from Barney. The CRT/touch screen is the second most troublesome part in the '88-89 Reattas and I do have good tested units available. As to the slow windows, it could be your window switch is not passing the current correctly because of bad contacts inside the switch or the tracks simply need greasing. Many times on my several Reattas I have had very slow operations and took off the panel and put some grease on all three track and the windows then went up and down MUCH faster. If you do want to replace the window motors I have motor/regulator assemblies available and in replacing these as a unit, you do not have to get involved with that large high tension spring on the regulator. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com if you need any parts.

From 10 years of experience with Reatta parts, it is your headlight switch module. Twilight sentinel was an option on the '88-90 Rivieras but not on the Reattas until '91. I used to say the most common part to go bad in the '88-89 Reattas was the CRT/touch screen but now I believe that is second and the headlight switch module is the most common part to go bad. This module is made up of metal sliders and contacts which can wear out and get dirty. Two items I have mentioned in the past. One, do not buy a used switch on Ebay unless the seller specifically states that the dimmer slider works and the background lights on the CRT, console and wiper switch module work. Second, I have purchased about 40 used switches from junk yards with only about 8 of them working the first time and then after cleaning only about a 20% success rate with the cleaned ones. The inverters and/or the twilight sensor up near the windshield do go bad but in my opinion 99% of the time it is the headlight switch module. I do have some good tested working switches available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Sounds like either the heater programmer or a broken/cracked vacuum line to the programmer. The heater programmer is located behind and below the glove box. If your heater is blowing cold air and will switch from defrosters to vents to floors then the vacuum line is OK. You can take out the glove box and then change the controls on the climate screen of your CRT and watch and see if the lever on top of the programmer moves. I have good programmers available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

What is PB blaster?

Your right but because of the high winds in some places there is only about 1/2 inch of snow and other places abour 2 feet. We are supposed to get into the 50s next week so it will be all gone, for the rest of they year I hope. I want to take my collector cars out and also go roller blading to get rid on some of my winter gained "spare tire" I did have my '39 Buick coupe out one day last week. Stock body but 66 Buick V8 automatic. Obviouly this pix was not taken last week.

We have been getting what they call a blizzard but there really isn't much snow associated with it here in Duluth, about 4-5 inches. The wind has been really strong about 50 MPH so it is blowing the snow and visibility is low. I was going to go out for lunch but decided to wait. I have both a four wheel drive truck and snowmobiles so I will go out later this afternoon regardless. No deduction for snow tires on Reattas unless they have stud in them for the ice. My wife is in Texas, maybe I should take her Reatta convertible out this afternoon with the top down for the first ride of the spring.

Just bringing this to the top so hopefully Lee with see it.

Lee, I received a forwarded topic from the webmaster from you asking about an ABS motor. I do not know who or how to reply. I do have a good motor. Please send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com or if you do not have email please send me a PM private message through this forum so I can reply to your question. Jim

I emailed you some pictures. Jim

I wouldn't be too worried about the salvage title if you are going to keep the car. When the cars are 10 years old or less a salvage title is important but I don't think so on a collector vehicle. $ 8K is too much now days for a '90 convertible with 90K on it. In the last few years I sold 3 convertibles with less miles for less than $ 8K The coupes and the convertibles used the exact same trunk lid P/N 20725836. Now if the trunk lid has been modified, and the damage had been in the rear, I would be worried.

As Daniel alluded to------- stay away from the dealerships and get your car repaired at a local shop with a good reputation and use Auto Zone or similar parts. NAPA has good parts but they sponsor a Toyletota in Nascar so I have not shopped there for a few years.

As Daniel alluded to------- stay away from the dealerships and get your car repaired at a local shop with a good reputation and use Auto Zone or similar parts. NAPA has good parts but they sponsor a Toyletota in Nascar so I have not shopped there for a few years.

Those are very good prices. 6 months ago I bought one at my local dealer to send to a fellow in Switzerland and with my discount I paid about $ 135. You do have to be carful at these on line sites as some of them, particularily gmpartsdirect, have high shipping prices. If someone does buy an accumulator from either place please post the shipping costs. As I mentioned I have bought about 20 used accumulators recently and only two were good. I had to throw away the others. I am tempted to buy a couple of spares if the prices are close to $ 100 as our cars are going to need them and good used ones are non-existant. The prices will only go up and there probably never be any options.

Those are very good prices. 6 months ago I bought one at my local dealer to send to a fellow in Switzerland and with my discount I paid about $ 135. You do have to be carful at these on line sites as some of them, particularily gmpartsdirect, have high shipping prices. If someone does buy an accumulator from either place please post the shipping costs. As I mentioned I have bought about 20 used accumulators recently and only two were good. I had to throw away the others. I am tempted to buy a couple of spares if the prices are close to $ 100 as our cars are going to need them and good used ones are non-existant. The prices will only go up and there probably never be any options.

If you did not see any brake fluid next to the pins inside the connector on the pressure switch it still could be bad. Next time the red light stays on with the key on, put your hand on the pump motor and you should feel is slightly vibrating, running. If not you can tap on the motor and it might start. If it does, the motor/pump is probably bad although since the pressure switch is mounted directly above this taping might also cause the pressure switch to work and start the pump. If you decide you want either a pump/motor or pressure switch send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com