Jim

There is an '89 Reatta in the Pick N Pull in San Antonio with a good windshield. I have been in about 40 u pull its around the country and this is the largest I have ever seen. They have a truck pulling a shuttle trailer that circles the outer edges to take folks to and from certain areas. They have cleared more land to expand the yard. I did find a '90 IPC there but you have to buy the warrantee for $ 10 even if you want to simply take it out into the parking lot and try it in your car. No cash refund so you get a credit. The IPC was good.

The hinge covers for the 16way seats are different from the regular seats.

I'll bet your car is an '88-89. If so it is the headlight switch module. I do have a good one available.

Back when Greg was building the car I am pretty sure he did a lot of postings telling what parts he used. Greg is working way up in Alberta on the oil sands project and may not check this site regularly. He did just recently buy a red '89 in Florida and mentioned he wouldn't mind getting a '91 convertible.

What ever happened to what we learned in English class when we were in school? About 5 years ago before texting came into being, I got an email that went something like this----------I was wanting to know what you was wanting for-------- Yesterday I received the following email along with a picture. I haven't yet responded and may not. i was needing all this part if u haver it i have a 1989 buick reatta 7 how much if u do have it call me 806xxxxxxx thanksmy name is xxxxxxxx % XXXXXXXX%

I have been selling Reatta parts for many years and have both the parts you are looking for. Jim

I have been selling Reatta parts for about 10 years and have a good fog light assembly available. Jim

Padgett and others. I talked to Sandy today. Her car will start and run but very often when she is driving it, the engine will just die. She has the car at a GM dealer and she has a good ECM in the trunk but they will not install it saying they will only put in new parts. She said something about $ 400. In talking to her it sounds like they just don't want to work on the car and if they do, they want to start throwing parts at it and charging her for every one. Them not wanting to put in a used part is just a line to get her to spend more money or get her out of their shop because they do not want to work on an "old" car. I have sold quite a few used parts to GM dealerships so they can install them on their customers cars. My guess would be a bad ignition module plugged fuel filter, fuel pump or maybe a bad battery cable but she needs a small shop that will work with her and not gouge her.

Jim, I suspect your sensor is not bad. I am guessing you do not use your car too much and from several experiences I have found just using the car and filling the tank and running it out several times will cause your sender to start working again. Leaving the tank full will also help as the sensor rheostat will not corrode. The sensor is just a wiper that wipes across a wire wound piece and when they sit dry they can corrode. Another problem is the sending unit assemblies will rust. If yours is still pretty much rust free I would recommend if you are going to lower the tank, reuse your assembly, clean the wire wound sensor and install a new pump. If you car at this time does not need a new pump don't do anything. Fill the tank and maybe the problem with the sensor will go away. I do have a rust free tank and sending unit assembly if you need one. Jim

Since you had taken the IPC apart I assumed you had the expertise to repair one. wws944 is right, the best place to find one at a reasonable price is a U Pull It if you have one in your area. They are normally between $ 25 and $ 40 and you will get a 30 day guarantee. You can also call around to your regular junk yards and ask for an IPC for a '90-93 Riviera. You should not have to pay more than $ 100 for a used one as there are several places that rebuild them for under $ 150 and you then get a longer guarantee.

Since it started and ran good before but just stopped I would suspect the fuel pump rather than the filter although the filter would be the first item to replace. They are fairly cheap. The engine requires over 40 pounds of pressure to run. If you can find someone with a pressure gauge you can put it on the Shraeder valve on the fuel rail. Cycle the key a few times and read the pressure. There is a single green connector on the fender well on the drivers side just forward of the strut tower. There is nothing plugged into this connector but if you put 12V on that connector the pump will run. Someone suggested putting 12V on the pump to see if it is pumping. It probably will but you have to have at least 40# of pressure. I had one car that had 37# and it would not run. To remove the tank you have to disconnect the fuel lines just ahead of the rear wheel, remove the stabilizer bar and the tank straps. If the tank has a lot of gas in it, it will be heavy but you can get the fuel out ahead of time by disconnecting the fuel line at the engine, adding a piece of tubing to a can and putting 12V on the green connector.

I have some non working IPCs boards. I just checked and on the boards I have, those two transistors are good. If you want to try and replace them with mine send me an email. The only thing is we do not know what caused them to burn out and maybe something else is wrong causing them to burn out. I would send you the whole board and you can use any component off of it you want. There are three boards in the '90 IPCs. The front two have the ribbon cables permanently attached to the two boards. The rear board from my experience is the one that goes bad in most cases. Jim

Those are the exact same wheels we have on my wife's Reatta. I had Reatta center cap centers cut down to put in the middle. We liked them so well I picked up another set and they are now on my son's black '89. Looks identical to your car.

When you had the problem you mentioned the yellow light came on followed by the red light. This tells us the pump was not running and that is why you had low pressure. Either the pressure switch is bad or the pump motor brushes or commutator is bad. The most common problem when the pump does not run is the pressure switch. In early stages of going bad it can be intermittent. Remove the connector on the pressure switch and look inside next to the pins. If you see even the tiniest drop of liquid there the switch is bad. If the problem happens again, sometimes tapping on the switch will make the pump start. The only problem with tapping on the switch is the switch is mounted in the pump housing and tapping on the switch will send the vibrations to the pump motor and if the motor is bad it might start. In this case you do not know if the tapping caused the contacts in the pressure switch to make or the vibrations caused the motor to run. I have a good pressure switches and good pump/motors available. Jim

From my experience almost nothing works especially prying the center off. When you do that almost always some of the silver reflective paint on the back of the center will stay with the glue. I have also tried the fish line with no success. Where I have been completely successful is using my grinder or air cut off wheel and grinding away the aluminum on the back side. You can then remove the glue from the center without damaging the silvery paint.

Tom, Remember what happened to the Reatta I picked up in Orlando a few years ago when George and I were driving between Miami and Naples the very next day? Jim

I have all the mouldings in black and some in most colors. Jim

This is my 1500th post and I will use it commenting on the '91 Convertible. Cliff and Doreen Humphries were living in Orewa just north of Auckland on the north island. The earthquake was on the south island. Humphries moved a few years ago to the Gold Coast Australia. They took one or two of their cars with them to Surfers Paradise Austrailia and the Reatta was one of them. They left their '37 Buick coupe in the Auckland area.

I have available a very good working CD player. It has had some updates and works better and faster than the originals. It is an original CD player with updates. It would come without the black mounting on top unless someone needs the mounting in that case I will include it. If your car did not originally come with a CD player then the wiring harness is not there and it is fairly difficult to add a CD player to a car that did not have one originally. Jim As a side note, I just noticed my next post will be 1500. Nothing compared to Padgett and Barney but still a mile stone.

In reference to the CD players currently in the discussion section. I have two very good working CD players available. Jim

Each time I test CD players I have to get out my whole speaker/radio bench test setup. I have thought of many times, but haven't done it yet, pulling the connectors on the rear of the CD player in my wifes car, splicing in another set of connectors and then spare the extra set under her console or somewhere else. Then I could just, at the remote location, unplug the wires going to her normal CD and plug in the CD I want to test. Too much to do and so little time.

I have about 25 CD players on my shelf that did not work. A couple of weeks ago I decided to to some testing and repairing and I now have 3 excellent working original CD players available. Jim

Want to put your Sunbird up against my 50 Chev.? Instead of Paypal lets all use Bitcoins. Jim

Marck, Sounds like a good idea but probably will not work for us. Ed and I and maybe our wives will be at Charlotte one of the days but am not sure which day because we also have a trip to Charleston planned. Neither of us will be driving a Reatta to Charlotte. I will probably be wearing a white Reatta logo hat at the auto fair. Jim

Barney, I thought you had those grids available for sale.