Jim

Bob, If Jeff does not want them I will take them. If they are gone, Barney has a reproduction cable available. Used working antennas are also a good alternative but putting in a new band/mast is the cheapest and best way in the long run as you then have a new flexible band installed as opposed to an older possibly brittle band. A month ago I sent Barney some good complete antenna assemblies that needed only the cable replaced so he has some with new masts installed and ready to go.

I did some comparing last fall the weather strips on the coupes vs the convertibles and found them to be very similar both in shape and the way they attach to the roof/top. I sent the upper portion of some coupe weather strips to a convertible owner and he cut and modified them and got them to work on his conv. You would only want to do this if yours were really bad and had chunks missing.

I thought you were referring to the second gen Corvettes but wanted to be sure. My guess that would be like trying to put a top from a 53 Corvette onto an Allante. The year difference is so great that the style, fit and appearance would be completely different. I have a '63 Corvette two top convertible, that has been pictured on this forum before along side my S60 and the weather stripping on both the convertible top and the hard top are completely different from that on my Reatta convertibles.

From my experience the teeth have stripped on the regulator portion of the window motor regulator assembly. I have good ones available.

What is C2?

Padgett is right and your new compressor has the newer style connector. I will send a connector with some wires out on Monday. Jim

It is true the dash does have to come out to replace the Parking brake assembly. The mounting tabs for the brake assembly are between the pillar and the end of the dash. Possibly the dash can be loosen up and moved slightly to the right.

There were two connectors on the compressors. The '88-89s used one style and the '90-91s used another style. Either email me a picture of the connector on your new compressor or post a picture here and I will send you a connector no charge. Also if you want one faster post the picture here and I will identify it and you can pick one up locally at a local junk yard. Jim

I still have the Reo for sale. I will include two Reo snowblowers and one or two Reo lawn mowers. I also will deliver the car for free within 300 miles of Duluth MN and 30 cents per mile after that up to 600 miles. I am asking $ 3800 for the car.

I mentioned coupe latches only because all the latches, with the exception of the pass through door latch in a coupe are the same. The two compartment latches in the rear of a coupe and the glove box latch are all the same and the same as the glove box latch on all Reattas. Except for the '88 glove box. Marck had showed us his convertible rear compartment latches were different from all the other compartment/glove box latches. I was comparing the coupe rear compartment latches to the convertible rear compartment latches. In my convertible parts car case, the latches were the same as all others, but Marck's had the latch reversed on his convertible.

Marck, I remember you showing me the difference and glad you posted the pix. Must have been a fluke as the ones I took out of my convertible parts car were identical to the coupe latches. McReatta is probably right the the vendor screwed up and sent them out anyway.

I had the pleasure of meeting Marck at the swap meet in Charlotte a few weeks ago and he mentioned the latches on the rear compartments in his convertible were different from the coupe latches. Today I was removing some parts from my convertible parts car and remembered him telling me about the latches. The latches were the same in this convertible as are in the coupes but Marck showed me his and they were different. The latch itself was different but the gray plastic was the same. ??????????????

Like Steve, After removing the screws, I pull gently on the remaining panel while wiggling it up and down and the fasteners will come loose.

I got lucky the same way last fall in San Antonio. I was at a U Pull It and bought two touch screens. I brought them home and neither of them worked. I went back a few weeks later to return them and of course they didn't have any more so I had a credit slip. I knew I wouldn't be coming back soon so I went out in the yard looking to spend my credit on anything. I came across a Toronado that someone had gone to all the trouble of pulling the complete ABS off the firewall and it was sitting loose on top of the engine. I got it for the credit slip ( $ 40 ), brought it home, tested it and sold it. The new owner said it works perfectly.

That's the best way. Glad you got it fixed at a reasonable price. Jim

Thank you everybody. I didn't notice it either. Jim

I am. Email works best as opposed to a PM on this site. jfinn@cpinternet.com Jim

Kevin, Very well said. I have several non working '90 IPCs and will send them to you at no charge if you want them. You are welcome to repair or rebuild or---------- and do whatever you want with them. Jim

Hey, it's a northern car. Jim

The CRTs and headlight switches are the most common part to go bad in the '88-89 Reattas and the most common part to go bad in the '90-91 is the IPC and when it does it will read ERROR and 00 I have to disagree a little with Kevin's statement----- "Another thing, rest assured - an original non-rebuilt IPC will fail sooner or later due to component level failures inside the cluster. 20 years of heat, cold, humidity, and vibration have taken their toll and it is rather surprising to me that this problem has not reached epidemic proportions before now. These electronics take a beating in the context of a vehicle environment, so they were made quite well considering 2 decades of use (on average) before they start to require geriatric care. " Several years ago there was someone on this forum selling rebuilt IPCs for about $ 350 and I felt this was way too high so when someone would ask me about rebuilt IPCs or CRTs I had the following saved on my computer---- "The CRTs and IPCs are rebuildable but if you do either send yours in and have it rebuilt or buy a rebuilt unit, in my opinion you are still getting a used part. Unlike mechanical parts that are rebuilt with all new wearable parts electronic parts when they are rebuilt are just a used part that had one bad component replaced, tested and then sent back out. You are just as susceptible to failure in the future." I still think this is true as a rebuilder will find the faulty part, do a series of tests to make sure the unit is working and then send it out. He has no way of knowing what other electronic part might fail as at the time of rebuild it is in operational condition. Now that having been said, there is a rebuilder on Ebay who seems to have a good reputation and does a rebuild for about $ 150. Look on ebay or see his web site. He is digital dash solutions in Dayville CT http://home.comcast.net/~digital_dash_solutions/ I also have some good used units for less than the rebuild price.

Tom, From my experience there are so many motors around now when I see them in junk yards I don't even bother with them unless they are nice appearing. Jim

Original owner, up until I got the car, 1963 Chev Impala SS 327 4 speed. To say this car is bad, is saying nice things about the car but it is 97% complete and original. The parts that come to mind that are missing are the speedometer assembly and tach and rear half of the console. The body and frame are shot, but the car was driven up until the drivers seat fell through the floor and the original owner parked the car. It is a 327 300HP with a Muncie transmission. It has a Hurst shifter in the car but I have the original shifter with it in a box. The car is located in Duluth MN. An email at jfinn@cpinternet.com is best as I check my emails several times a day but don't always check the discussions sites. Jim

It is pretty common for this part to go bad and I do have a good blower control module available from one of my several Reatta parts cars. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Tom, Direct emails always work best for me as I check my email several times a day but might not look at the discussion sites everyday. I believe the car is sold and the buyer wants to pick it up this Saturday. If it falls through I will contact you. Jim

I have one very nice blue '89 armrest, one blue '89 armrest that has one small split in it less than 1/8 inch wide and some armrests in other colors that have bad material but a are good functionally. Please send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com Jim