Jim

Car is in New York and the price is $ 4950. Looks like a pretty good deal.

There are a lot of really good people on this forum like Padgett and Ronnie and others who are so willing to help others keep their cars on the road and running correctly with no compensation for themselves. Thank you to all of you. A thought popped into my mind as I was reading Padgett's post. Never put old gas into a fuel injected car. It can clog the injectors and cause weird temporary problems. A while back I put some old gas from a Reatta parts car into my 2001 GMC pickup. It was about 2 gallons mixed with the about 12 gallons already in the tank. We drove around for a while and one time when I shut the engine off and came back later to start it it would not turn over. After a while it did turn over but started and ran poorly for a minute or so. The same thing happened once more. What had happened is one injector was sticking open from the bad gas and because the ignition fires two cylinders at the same time, the correct one and one other, the wrong cylinder was firing when it shouldn't and pushing that piston back downwards when it was trying to come up.

Do you mean you took out the ABS and replaced it with non ABS? I am not sure also, what is your final price on the two cars? Thanks, Jim

'63 Impala 327 4 speed parts car located in Duluth MN $ 1800 '63 Chev Impala SS 327 4 speed Link to craigslist A PM here is OK but a direct email at jfinn@cpinternet.com is best

Car has been sold. Will be going to Rochester NY.

I agree with Barney, four choices are not enough. I currently have a '63 Corvette, '65 GTO convertible, '51 Henry J, '63 LeMans convertible, '27 Chev, '49 Olds coupe, and I own a '50 Chev tubbed with a big block and a blower, and a few others. Saturday at an auction I bought a '51 Olds with a Nova sub frame and a 403 Olds engine. New paint and interior. If I won the lottery there is no new car I would want to buy but I would like to have a '67 427 Corvette convertible. At today's prices it is going to take a lottery win. I did buy a ticket for tonights.

I totally agree with Padgett and wws 944 especially for you, Barney, and then nothing goes away unless you want it to go away. My wife uses Eudora and I did up until about two years ago. I still would but I switched to Thunderbird ,Firefox and Ubuntu. I have every Reatta related email I have sent saved all the way back to 8/3/2000 and I have most received emails saved. Sometimes I go through my inbox and delete most but not all emails from the same person. Because everything is saved on my computer I also have many folders I can go to and copy and paste informational material on how to fix Reatta problems without typing it out anew. As an example, I just looked, and on 1/26/2001 you emailed me looking for recoverable steering wheels.

Spotlight has been sold.

I think I posted this once before but will do it again. Funny story. Several years ago a fellow I know in Chicago drove about 27.7 miles one way to a Pick and Pull and pulled a lot of parts from a Reatta. Knowing there would be an upcoming half price day, he put all the parts he pulled into a Ford, knowing no one would find them, and figured on coming back on half price day to get the parts. When he went back on half price day, they had crushed the Ford and all the Reatta parts inside.

Barney is right. I had him do the wheels so as to look like the ones on my wife's driftwood convertible. On my picture the car is supposed to be driftwood and it is a little bit gold looking but appears to be white. Maybe that is the closest color he could do at the time.

The last I saw the posts was at about 7:30 PM central time last night and at that time the last post was from Kevin. I see now that Barney and Ronnie added to it and then it evidently went south. Oddly I still have a combination on my home computer and on my Iphone all of the posts up until that time. This morning I was going to post this part of those posts so everyone could get a picture if they wanted one but see Rawja did it for me. Roger, thanks for restarting this as a new thread. I did get mine as a result of Barney's efforts.

I got an offer from Tom Benvie and I am going to sell him my sign. Mine is sold.

Kingsley, Barney's also includes the top section. You get the hook thing at the bottom, the cable/band and the top section of the mast threaded at the very top for the ball/knob all as a complete ready to install piece.

I have quite a few letters in average condition but have one set that is very nice and shiny. Not as perfect as new but very shiny. If you hold them in your hand and look close you can see some wear but from two feet away they look great.

There have been some posts about possible replacements for the antenna masts now that GM is no longer supplying them. I received one of the ones Barney is remaking and it is EXCELLENT. Kingsley is also working on a replacement. Barney uses a stranded metal cable covered with plastic. I installed one in an assembly that had a broken band and it works perfectly. The band Barney is sending out, because it is a metal cable should work for as long as your Reatta is alive. My guess is about a fifty year life span.

From my experience the photo cell/twilight sensor will cause the problems you are having about 3% of the time and 97% of the time it is the headlight switch module. The two most common parts to go bad on the '88-89 Reattas is the headlight switch module and the CRT/touch screen. '88-89 headlight switch modules are the one part I do not recommend anyone buying on ebay unless the seller has tested the switch in a working car and verifies the lights on the IPC and other switches will dim. I have bought about 50 switches in junk yards over the years and maybe 5 of them worked as they should. I have tested good working '88-89 headlight switches available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com Pictured is a twilight sensor. I would be extremely surprised if you can find one of these for automotive use at the right resistance at Home Depot. Not only that, Home Depot sponsors a Toyota in Nascar and I do not shop at Home Depot or NAPA. I also have good twilight sensors and tested good inverters available.

I am sure Roger is right. The hoses will look fine on the outside but collapsed on the inside. This allows the fluid under pressure to go out to the caliper but there is not enough pressure to push the fluid back to the reservoir.

I have a Buick script hand held spotlight for sale for $ 10 plus $ 10 for Priority Mail shipping. Jim

I do have a title for the car and there are no rust holes. Jim

I just went and looked and they will not be interchangeable. The Reatta motor assemblies use 3 mounting holes one on the top and two on the bottom.

I don't believe the motor will work in a Reatta. On the motor pictured there is a cross for mounting the glass and in that spot Reattas use a ball socket.

You mentioned you got one from a junk yard. I buy quite a few ABS pumps, pressure switches and accumulators from salvage yards. Rarely do I get a good accumulator. 90% of the time I throw them away. The reason the accumulators go bad is the nitrogen leaks out and then more fluid is held in the accumulator meaning less nitrogen to compress. You cannot compress fluid. The pressure will drop fast in a shot accumulator causing the pump/motor to run more often and this will wear out the motor faster. Before unscrewing the accumulator be sure and pump the brake pedal, with the key off, about 25 to 40 times and still I wrap a rag around the base of the accumulator when unscrewing it. If is seems to unscrew hard, then you still have pressure in the system. If it unscrews easy after initially breaking it loose, then all of the pressure is out of the accumulator. The following is a test for an accumulator. Procedure for testing an accumulator. Turn on the key and have the radio and anything else off that makes noise. Wait for the red and yellow lights to go out and a few seconds later you will hear the pump stop running. Rapidly pump the brake pedal about 4 times and see it the red light comes on. If it does, wait for the pump to build up pressure again and the light will go out. Wait again for the pump to stop running and then pump the brake pedal 3 times to see if the red light comes on. The purpose here is to see how many pumps it takes to get the red light to come on. The higher the number the better the accumulator. A new one will be about 7 pumps and a shot one would be one pump. Two pumps should be replaced and three is marginal.

I agree, nice picture and very nice of Padgett to offer his services. Jim

The big spring is indeed a dangerous item. This is why when I send out a regulator it will come with a good motor attached so you do not have to get involved with separating the two.

I am on my IPhone right now and away from home so cannot go into all the problems. The two parts that go bad the most often in the '88-89' Reattas are the CRT and the headlight switch module. When the headlight switch goes bad it will cause many of the dimming/brightness problems you are having. I have tested good working headlight switches available.