Jim

The sill inserts are in. I will send an email to everyone who showed interest. I do not have an email address for 89 Maui so I will send you a PM. If anyone else is interested please send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com I sell them for $ 21 per pair and that includes shipping.

Padgett and John, That was funny. I have contacted John and I do have a good one. Jim

Ron, Thank you. I also had this question on the general forum and see you answered it there also. Here is my post from there. Ron, Thanks for looking it up. My '51 Olds has a Chevelle front stub with power disc brakes and a 403 CI Olds engine. The original heater control valves were replace with an aftermarket one on the fender well. The coolant was running inside the car from the core. At this time I am not selling any of my '49-50 parts as I have a '49 fastback and a '49 coupe that I am working on. After the coupe is done I may sell the fastback and the left over parts, but not before.

Ron, Thanks for looking it up. My '51 Olds has a Chevelle front stub with power disc brakes and a 403 CI Olds engine. The original heater control valves were replace with an aftermarket one on the fender well. The coolant was running inside the car from the core. At this time I am not selling any of my '49-50 parts as I have a '49 fastback and a '49 coupe that I am working on. After the coupe is done I may sell the fastback and the left over parts, but not before. Jim

The heater core in my '51 S88 went bad. I have several '49-50 parts cars and am wondering if the heater core from one of those cars will work in my '51 S88. If they will not, where can I get a good core? New or used. Thanks, Jim

The heater core in my '51 S88 went bad. I have several '49-50 parts cars and am wondering if the heater core from one of those cars will work in my '51 S88. If they will not, where can I get a good core? New or used. Thanks, Jim

I have a set of four '91 wheels and center caps that I would sell for $ 250 plus shipping. These are decent wheels and caps, not perfect, but can be put on and used as is without repainting. Send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com and please include your zip code.

If I was selling those parts I would guess the remote is worth about $ 75 The relays are worth about $ 5 each because I am guessing you can buy them new for about $ 12 each. Very often when someone is having ABS problems if they get a pump or pressure switch from me I will throw in some of those relays at no charge if they think they might need one. The license plate holder is dependent upon condition. $ 25 to $ 75. Just my opinion.

I talked to the fellow who was making the sill inserts for me and he will make me another batch. The price will be the same. When I get them I will contact everyone who was interested. Thanks, Jim

That's an extremely good buy. Someone should snap it up before they figure out what they have. That car is a minimum of $ 5000 underpriced. Two of the parts that are very hard to find are the drivers seat and drivers door panel and they look good in the picture. Recian, pay the shipping an buy the car.

I'm not sure what kind of car that is. Hopefully it is a Toyota.

It's not just the northern cars that the three screws won't come out. Two days ago I went to put rollers in a pair of motors that I took off a parts car I got in Atlanta GA and five of the six screws on the two motors were stuck. The castings are diecast pot metal and the screws are steel so there is a chemical reaction and the screws corrode and stick. If anyone has a way of loosening those stuck screws without breaking them off I would sure like to know how. I have tried heat with my torches and two days ago I tried using my arc welder to try and pass a high current through the screw, hopefully loosening it, but no luck.

I received one email from Dan on 8/24 but didn't get back to him until the next day 8/25. This is because is took some time to check my parts cars to see if I had the lines he is looking for. This is also one of the reasons I prefer emails to phone calls as I cannot always immediately say whether or not I have a particular part. I rarely have any trouble receiving emails when folks have my correct email address except as Nic mentioned on occasion folks with AOL sometimes might have a problem. I am not a fan of AOL because they are so big as soon as they have a problem they shut down every email going to that ISP legit or not. In most cases folks with AOL can't get through and then the next day everything is fine.

Polo green convertible.

I have a good working CD player available. It is an original player that I have done some updates to and it works very well. The CD goes in faster than the original and starts playing quicker. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

When my wife and I were married we had a '65 GTO convertible so 16 years ago I bought the one pictured. We sold our original GTO and bought a '63 Corvette. I paid $ 1900 for the car in 1968 and sold it for $ 1900 in 1969. In 1980 I bought the same car back again but paid $ 8500 to buy it back. Still have it. Jim

Padgett, Doug and others, I will contact the fellow who was making them for me and see if he will make more. I will let you know. Jim

The rear bearing on my '65 GTO went out two weeks ago and when I went to get a new one I was told Timken and all others are all made in China now. I don't know it that is true but that's what they said. It also pays to go to a store that has been in business for a while. After having to order one from O'Reillys and Advance I went to my old time Auto Value place that has been selling parts forever and told him the part number. He said, "Oh must be for a 9 inch Ford" and as it turns out GTO and 9 inch Fords used the same bearing. The older cars were much easier to work on. I jacked up the car, took off the five wheel lug nuts, through the hole in the hub removed the four nuts holding the axle bearing retainer plate and slid out the axle. Using a die grinder removed the old bearing and pressed on the new one and put it back together. Total time about 1/2 hour.

Thats funny. After reading Ronnies comment but before reading yours, I thought the exact same thing.

It does sound like the IPC itself rather than something else. Regarding the 8 small bulbs I also, after testing an IPC for at least a week in my personal car, check to make sure all the small 12 warning bulbs are good. If not, I bought 24 new ones and replace them as necessary.

Ronnie, Thank you for the nice comments. From my experience the instrument panel cluster ( IPC ) is the most common part to go bad in the '90-91 Reattas. When they go bad they will either be black all the time and read ERROR and 00 or do this intermittently. I do have a tested good one available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

It goes on the side of the column near the ignition switch and is held to the column by two very small Phillips screws.

I usually have most Reatta parts available at very reasonable prices. I recently got in a silver/gray '90, a blue/blue '89 and a white/burgundy '88 I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Harry, I do have a good panel and am sending you an email. The one I have is currently pearl white as this Reatta parts car had been repainted pearl white. The price will be about 10% of the ones you can find on Ebay as with all my parts I try and sell them at reasonable prices and treat people the way I would like to be treated. I have several parts cars and usually have most parts available.