Jim

Padgett, I sent you an email. Jim

Zoltan, I have a pretty nice blue '89 hood and something can be worked out for delivery. I am sending you an email. Jim

Because I sell Reatta parts it would be natural for me to say yes and slightly stifle competition but I voted no. I do sell my parts for less than other sellers on this forum and usually have all parts in all colors available and have been selling Reatta parts for about 12 years making me the longest running parts vendor also but-------- ( thanks for this post allowing me to give my sales pitch and not clog up the buy sell forum with repetitive posts ) --------- even if someone is "using" this buy sell forum for his own interest it still gives the folks here the opportunity to purchase an item they might be interested in and not otherwise know of it's availability.

There are 6 or 7 clips holding the molding to the door and on the ends there is a stud attached to the molding with a nut that holds it on. If one of the 6 or 7 clips is missing that is not a problem as the other 5 are more than enough. I have the door molding in black and most other colors with all the clips and my prices are most likely the lowest. I have been selling Reatta parts for about 12 years and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

The most common part to go bad in your case is the pressure switch. The one you put on could be bad again as they do leak brake fluid into the contact area and cause problem. A check you can do is remove the connector and look inside near the five pins. If you see even the tiniest drop of brake fluid in there the switch is bad. The pump/motor can also be bad and this is common also but not as common as the pressure switch. Because the pump runs a lot, like you said, the brushes can be bad, and tapping on the motor sometimes will get the pump to run but this tapping also can make the contacts in the pressure switch also work if the switch is bad. I have both tested good pressure switches and pump/motors available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com I have been selling Reatta parts for about 12 years and my prices are considerably lower than any of the other sellers.

I was at the U Pull It in Oklahoma City, SE 15th and Santa Fe, a couple of days ago and there is a '90 there with some of the nicest non 16 way seats I have ever seen. The windshield is also good. Someone got the headlight switch before me but I have 8 of them available anyway.

Padgett brings up a good thought but it shouldn't really apply to Nic as I don't think he makes too many long trips. On short trips the tires will not heat up enough to come apart even if they are old. Several years ago I bought a Reatta convertible in Orlando and drove it to Naples. The next day I drove across alligator alley to Miami and on the way back the tread blew off the tire at 70 MPH and took the front fender right off the car. Old tires with like new tread. Fortunately I knew a fellow in Vero Beach who had a black parts car so the next day I drove up to his home and took off the remaining parts of my fender and bolted on one from him. The 225-55-16 tires will work on Nic's car. I once bought a parts car from a salvage auction the the owner had taken off the original tires and wheels and let the salvage company pick up the car with 255 tires on steel rims. The car with those tires wouldn't even roll as the tires were hitting the bottom of the struts.

Jon, You are selling it too cheap. The wood grain escutcheon is worth about $ 20 as they are sort of plentiful in the U Pull Its from Rivieras but you should be getting at least $ 100 and it is worth more than that. Jim

I also should be able to find one on an upcoming trip I have planned. I will be leaving next Wednesday morning for Texas, for a few days and plan on stopping in several U Pull Its on the way.

Barney, thanks for the parts recommendation. I guess I am going to have to send my antenna repair referals to the guy who keeps saying there are four green convertibles out there. I do have a good vacuum block available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

About two weeks ago I picked up a white gas door in the local junk yard for my neighbor's Riviera who also has a rust problem. It turns out his car is pearl white and the one I picked up is not pearl but straight white. If you car is not pearl, I may still have the gas door. I sent a Reatta to the crusher a week ago and may have thrown it inside that car but can check. If you need a white, not pearl white door, send me an email. Jim

I have been parting out Reattas for about 12 years and have most parts available in most colors. I have a fuel door for $ 15. Email me at jfinn@cpinternet.com with the color of your car.

You simply get a remote and program it to your '89-91. I have some good remotes available and will include programming instructions.

The sad fact is he might get that for his letter as sometimes folks aren't aware there are less expensive ways to find needed items. A couple of years ago I put one each of the inverters on Ebay and the bids went up to about $ 50 each. At the end of the auction I emailed the high bidder telling him that that was too much and offered him the inverters for quite a bit less than his high bid. He replied that he would pay the full amount. ????????? When I see some folks listing items on Ebay with ridiculously high starting prices it really bothers me that the sellers are trying to find some unsuspecting buyer to flat out rip off. Years ago I had an acquaintance that was a car salesman in Minneapolis and his theory was screw the customer as hard as you can because if you don't the next guy will. I try to sell my parts for what I think I would like to or have to pay for them and try and treat folks the way I would want to be treated. P.S. I have lots of letters available although for some reason one of them, and without going and looking, I am in short supply of. Maybe it is the "C" and in that case I have one for $ 85.

I have been on the forum as long as Barney, Nov 99 and I sold David some parts and gave him a good deal so I should get the picture.

When I read Keith's first post I immediately figured he needed internal column parts. I sell quite a few steering column because of problems exactly like he is having and the problem is the pot metal pieces near the key switch that the rod attaches to get broken. He needs to replace the column, by far the easiest way. I am out of gray columns but do have a tan one and a burgundy one for an '88-89.

I have three sets of '91 wheels and center caps available and you don't have to spend $ 1000 for them. I do need to clarify my previous post in that having a second look at the $ 250 set, they should be repainted before installing on your car. The clear coat is weak on the wheels and on the center caps the paint is coming off in several spots. I will include with the wheels and caps a spray can of exact matching paint for '91 wheels made by Tower Paint company, a company specializing in automotive paints. This one can has enough paint for about 8 wheels. I do have a nicer set for that can be used as is for $ 450 and a very nice set for $ 600. The $ 600 set might be sold and I will know for sure tonight.

Here is a picture of the tire sticker on the door of my S60

I have two '88 manuals available. I will send you an email. One of them I just picked up last Saturday and an auction. The GM dealer had moved to larger quarters and had an auction of all their old and obsolete parts, tools and books. I also got a CRT tester.

Seth, I have some good headliner boards and some have good material on them and still look good. These boards, because of the size, are pretty expensive to ship via FedEx, UPS or the USPS but because you are in Iowa you are close enough that there is a company based here in MN that ships to about 6 neighboring states really cheap. If you are interested in a headliner send me an email with the color of your interior and whether or not you have a sun roof and your zip code.

Harry, I have some I can send you at no charge. How many would you like. The ones for the quarter molding are a little different. Send me a regular email. Jim

The later ones even though they look the same from the front will not work. I have bought about 5 of them in junk yards and everyone when I plugged it in to my test harness caused the radio to go wacky. The last time I tried was about a year ago and I think smoke even came from the CD player.

I have good headlight motors available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com This would be the motors only with good rollers inside but does not include the bellcrank. If your motors run when you operate the headlight switch but do not open the headlights then your motors are good but you need bellcranks and rollers. You can tell if the motors are good by watching the knob on the end of the motor turn when you operate the switch. If you do not need motors there are only two places I would recommend getting the headlight mechanism parts from and they are Barney Eaton barney@texas.net or Kinglsey Baker hkbjr@yahoo.com Both are good and both have the parts you need. If you need both motors and bellcranks I know Barney has motors and I think Kingsley may also. If you need both the motors and bellcranks, get everything from either of those folks rather than a motor from me and the bellcranks from one of them. There are two things that go bad on the headlights. Inside the motor gear case are some nylon rollers and these disintegrate sometimes and the other part is the bellcrank which gets worn out. The bellcrank, or actuator, is located on the shaft coming out of the motor gear box and is a piece of diecast metal about 2 inches long by 1 inch wide. Open the hood and manually turn the knob on the end of the motor about ten turns then lift the headlight assembly manually and see if the linkage/bellcrank is loose on the shaft coming out of the motor. If it is loose most likely the bellcrank is bad. You should not be able to raise and lower the assembly more than about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. If the assembly does move more than that most likely the bellcrank is bad. The bellcrank should be tight and not rotate at all on the shaft. When it wears, it starts out as a rectangle hole and then turns to a butterfly shape and then you have a round hole. You will be able to see right away if the hole is not a rectangular shape when you remove it from the output of the motor. The other part to go bad is the rollers inside the motor gear box. If the linkage is fairly tight and the motor keeps running the rollers are bad. Another way to check if the rollers are bad is if you can manually turn the motor with the knob but the bellcrank does not turn. Do this with the headlight assembly either up, down or while holding the headlight assembly and trying to stop it from opening or closing.

If a Reatta did not come from the factory with a CD player then the wiring is not in place to just simply bolt one in. Two connectors on the back of the radio need to be added/changed and someone with some wiring experience needs to splice in about 15 wires. One of our "friends" on this site had a harness for sale a while back saying it was the harness to add a CD player but I have experience with at least 200 '90-91 Reattas and '90-93 Rivieras and have never seen a separate harness. Working CD players are very hard to find and equally hard to find is the black escutcheon plate that goes in front of the player. I have a black CD escutcheon available but only will sell it with a CD player. A few years ago I made up a schematic for adding a CD player and have the schematic and connectors available. I also have a good working CD player but I have to look through my recent emails as it might be sold. Normally I also have updated CD players but am currently out of the parts to update one. Will have some available in the future.