Jim
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Posts posted by Jim
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Stanley,
I sent you two emails.
I recommend simply cutting out the bad spots and put in a small piece of high pressure fuel line hose with two clamps on each end of the hose. If you wanted you could replace the plastic hose with high pressure fuel line hose all the way from the splices in front of the rear wheel all the way to the fuel filter as it is only about 4 feet.
This has been done on the lines coming from the tank multiple times with success.
Jim
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I do have a pretty nice one available.
Send me an email and please include your Postal Code.
Jim
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I saw that ad on Facebook for the '91 in Maplewood and didn't do anything for a day or two and when I looked again it was gone.
Really kicking myself for not following up right away. It was a pretty nice car and they were only asking $ 1500.
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I have good uses ones available.
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17 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:
Jim Finn has indicated it is possible to get air trapped in places when you flush the system. I think he disconnects the hard line from the pump to the booster to get the air out.
If this is incorrect he will respond
When just replacing he accumulator you just take off the old one and put on the new one.
Same if you are just replacing the pressure switch.
If you are replacing the pump, then you need to attach but leave loose the steel line going to the master cylinder ( the hose in the case of the '88 systems ) and put on but leave loose the accumulator. You then turn on the key and watch for fluid to start leaking out of one or both of these places. Turn off the key and tighten the line and accumulator.
This is necessary because the pumps are fluid pumps and not air. They need to be bled to get all the air out.
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Barney is the best place to get the motor/bellcrank repair parts. His are excellent quality and VERY reasonable prices.
For all the other parts listed in Barney's picture I have them available at reasonable prices.
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I didn't really read the above comments but the '88-89s used steel lines and the '90-91, -93 used plastic lines. The electrical connectors are the same on all years.
The Cadillac ones Dave referred to will work but the resistor is of a different value so the gauge will not work correctly.
Yesterday I removed two sending units from Reattas and am pretty sure i have a good one available . I will test the gauge sending units today to make sure they are working.
Never replace a sending unit without replacing the fuel pump and do not use a cheap pump, because of the work to drop and replace the tank, put in a good quality pump.
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There is one for sale in Superior WI.
The body is rusted bad, dents in it, taillight broken bad, IPC does not work, brake lines rusted out and brakes do not work. ECC does not work, radio too quiet and 17 year old tires on Pontiac rims.
He wants $ 600 for the car. He says the tires and rims are worth $ 1000. I walked away without commenting.
I used to own this car and sold it to him in 2005.
I looked at it about a month ago and passed on it. Not even a good parts car.
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This is a sort of slightly common problem. The problem is the IPC. There is something in there that does not allow the codes to be displayed.
Over the years I have tested many IPCs and sometimes take returns and then swap circuit boards to try and get them working again.
One of the tests I do, if the IPC lights up digitally, is check to see if they will go into the diagnostic mode and sometimes they do not.
At this same time, I always have a good IPC to test to make sure there are no problems in my test car other than checking IPCs. so I am positive any problems encountered are in the IPC being tested.
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When I got into Reattas, like Barney said, they were $ 1200. Then $ 850, then $ 450, then $ 250 now I sell them for $ 75
Windshields are the same for coupe and convertible.
I have them but will not ship one.
Jim
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I also don't think a car with 11,000 miles is new.
$ 40,000 it about double what it is worth.
A friend here in Duluth has a white/tan/tan convertible with 12,000 miles on it for $ 15K or offer.
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An '89 Riv column will work directly into a Reatta but the wiring for the cruise control is different. On the steering wheel on the Riv.
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A friend in Iowa is selling for a friend in Iowa of his a '90 convertible with 12667 actual miles.
The car was purchased almost new in CA and brought to IA back then and never driven much but started regularly.
Has the original tires from '90. CD player. The AC is low on Freon but otherwise everything works correctly including the ABS.
They would like $ 15,000 for the car.
Contact Gary Pribyl for more information and pictures.
319-601-1588 pribyl1944@gmail.com
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I have 6 pretty nice burgundy '88 mats available and one or more of mine might be nicer than yours.
Send me an email with a picture of your mats, showing the worn areas and maybe I can help with a better one.
Jim
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The parking brake cable under the drivers side rocker panel is a little too loose and is probably sagging a little there. When this happens the pedal does not come back up all the way to close the switch on the pedal assembly. Reach under the car and pull the cable a little while pulling the brake release handle and the pedal will come all the way up and close the switch.
There is an adjustment for the cable at this rocker panel location and the cable can be tightened up there.
I have all seat motor parts available if you determine which piece is bad.
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21 hours ago, DAVES89 said:
Jim Finn is in Duluth Mn and has a lot of parts and his reasonable in price. He would ship by a regional shipper called Speedee. Freight using them is reasonable. His contact information is shown above in the vendor tab in the top of the Reatta Forum page.
I don't see a picture but I do have all front end parts at reasonable prices and depending on where in IL shipping could be quite cheap using Speedee.
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That was good advice.
When taking these types of parts off I always heat them with either a propane torch, lightly, or a heat gun. This softens them up for easy removal.
For years, when removing the nuts that hold the rear red reflectors to the main taillight, I always heat them for a second or two with a torch and then the nuts come off without breaking the studs.
Do the same when putting the nuts back on.
Jim
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The cruise is tied to the BCM and the VSS so any time you are having speedo problems the cruise will not work
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Just yesterday I delivered a Reatta to St Paul from Duluth, 165 miles with as normal no problem.
Over the last 25 years I have towed Reattas on car dollies guessing over 20,000 miles.
Miami to dlh, St lk city to dlh, New Jersey to dlh, Dallas to dlh, several trips from Columbia SC to dlh plus many others.
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The black tape on the shifter panel is also bad and the vent on the side of the dash is missing.
I could sell them some horn buttons and the vent but based on what they think their car is worth my buttons and vent should be worth about $ 200 per piece.
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I finally found mine. It was a combination of a bad 32 pin connector on the CPS and a bad BCM.
I had twice put in a different BCM but still had the problems.
The chart B7, I think, was very helpful as it mentioned "is the blower running even when shut off " and it was. Still was very intermittent but I was in the process of programming remotes with the key on and the engine not running and the blower started running. At the same time the IPC and CRT were going on and off.
Wiggled the connector on the CPS and erratic things happened. Spliced in a new connector but still had no speedo. Chart B7, then did some voltage checks and said to replace the BCM. Did that and no troubles since. I have the old connector on my bench and cannot see any problems with it. I am going to bring it in and look at it with a magnifying glass to see what is not right.
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Happy new year ?????
When I talked to you a couple of days ago you said it was golfing weather. Now I see you are at 35 degrees,
It was 29 below zero here this morning.
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This is so weird.
Being involved with Reattas for 25 years until this week I have never seen this problem and today, after spending much time in the shop manual, I will be tracing down the same issue in a friends Reatta.
I am guessing you are also getting a B124 code
The VSSs in the transmission do not go bad too often. Do like Ronnie says and look at the BD 60, IF your trouble is always present. Mine is intermittent.
I am also getting an E047 intermittently but don't think the two are related.
I do wonder how the engineers figured out some of these diagnostics as I looked at chart B-7 and they ask if the blower is always on high ( even with the climate control shut off ) and mine is occasionally.
They also ask in chart B2 if the odometer is not displaying correct, mine is, and again how did they simulate these possible situations when writing the manuals.
89 Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir
in Buick Reatta
Posted
I have good used ones.
Jim