ThomasBorchers

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Posts posted by ThomasBorchers


  1. After years of restoration of our 1955 Oldsmobile 4door Sedan I am now at the point that I could install the headliner. But.. how ? :confused: I browsed Google but find no tips for installation. Is there a online manual around how to do this ? Or a book or something else where it is shown step by step ?<o></o>

    I think it should be the same as at the 1955 Buick 4d Sedans. I started alread a thread here : <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:/DOKUME%7E1/THOMAS%7E1/LOKALE%7E1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone> <w:DoNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} p.MsoAutoSig, li.MsoAutoSig, div.MsoAutoSig {margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} span.EmailFormatvorlage15 {mso-style-type:personal-compose; mso-ansi-font-size:10.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family:Arial; mso-hansi-font-family:Arial; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial; color:black;} @page Section1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm 70.85pt; mso-header-margin:36.0pt; mso-footer-margin:36.0pt; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style>http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1955-oldsmobile-headliner-installation-273027.html but got not the solution for my problem, since I have a Sedan.

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    Thanks for your help.<o></o>

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    Tom


  2. Ok, now I had a closer look at the car where I shall staple the headliner on. And yes, I found some oddments of thick paperboard. On the side they will be fixed with these teeth as you can see on the photo and at the front and rear window they will be hold in place with thick staples. There are also these small holes in the sheet metal for the thick staples. But where can I get such thick staples ? Here in Germany there is no chance, I am afraid. <o></o>

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    So, and then I think, that these round things ( I attached a photo ) will be hold in place with the mouldings with the teeth. And I think, that they will be screwed onto the headliner. But stop… this can not be… than I would see these teeth mouldings. And it should look like at the last photo. If there would be mouldings at the top of the door openings like at the hardtop, it would be no question but so ??? Help… :confused: :confused: :eek:<o></o>

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    Kind regards<o></o>

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    Tom<o></o>

    post-30607-143138141457_thumb.jpg

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  3. Hello Rusty,<o></o>

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    thank you for your nice manual. Inside the car is nothing at the moment except the dome light and dash board. I have no idea where I should place the staples because there it just bare metal. <o></o>

    At the top of the door openings I have these parts which you can see on the photo. These parts are screwed on and holt the head liner and these round things which is around the door opening ( I don’t know the English name, a kind of it you put between fenders and body at older cars, just bigger ).<o></o>

    As you can see, these parts has teeth to hang in the headliner. But the side with the teeth goes to the body and how should I then hang in the headliner ? And when I hang in the headliner before, I can not screw these parts to the body. <o></o>

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    The problem is, than I haven’t disassembled the car, so I have no idea how it was before. <o></o>

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    Kind regards<o></o>

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    Tom <o></o>

    post-30607-143138141451_thumb.jpg


  4. <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:/DOKUME%7E1/THOMAS%7E1/LOKALE%7E1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone> <w:DoNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} p.MsoAutoSig, li.MsoAutoSig, div.MsoAutoSig {margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} span.EmailFormatvorlage15 {mso-style-type:personal-compose; mso-ansi-font-size:10.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family:Arial; mso-hansi-font-family:Arial; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial; color:black;} @page Section1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm 70.85pt; mso-header-margin:36.0pt; mso-footer-margin:36.0pt; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style> It is an important point what rocketguy said. So it is also necessary to change the DOT 5 brake fluid after two years to avoid water drops in the brake system. This is the other side of the coin, using DOT 5.

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    @ Hurst Olds : To clean your brake lines I would use brake cleaner spray until pure brake cleaner comes out of the lines. Blow out than the lines with water and oil free air. You have to change all the rubber parts in the cylinders and the brake hoses. Than you should be sure to use a 100 % DOT 5 brake system.

    I still use DOT 3 or 4 in my cars and all 2 years I change the brake fluid. It is important after rebuilding brake cylinders, to use a brake cylinder paste when installing the new rubbers and pistons to avoid rust in the cylinders. And you should also press down the brake pedal several times, once or twice a month when your are not driving the car.

    Tom


  5. After years of restoration of our 1955 Oldsmobile 4d Sedan I am now at the point that I could install the headliner. But.. how ? :confused: I browsed Google but find no tips for installation. Is there a online manual around how to do this ? Or a book or something else where it is shown step by step ?<o></o>

    <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]--><o></o>

    Thanks for your help.<o></o>

    <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]--><o></o>

    Tom


  6. After years of restoration of our 1955 Oldsmobile 4d Sedan I am now at the point that I could install the headliner. But.. how ? :confused: I browsed Google but find no tips for installation. Is there a online manual around how to do this ? Or a book or something else where it is shown step by step ?<o></o>

    <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]--><o></o>

    Thanks for your help.<o></o>

    <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]--><o></o>

    Tom<o></o>


  7. <o></o>

    Hello !<o></o>

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    The power brake booster of our 1955 Olds Super 88 is in a bad condition. I disassembled it and made some repairs, so it works now but the piston goes not to its end position after depressing the brake pedal. Perhaps it is just the large spring in the booster. But the housing where the piston runs is also not perfect inside. So actually it needs a full service but this is expensive. Also costs for overseas shipping, customs fees and so on.<o></o>

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    So I think about to switch to manual brakes. I did this years before at my 55 Buick. There I needed a different brake linkage. Do I need this also for the 55 Olds ? It is possible to get these parts ?<o></o>

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    Kind regards and greetings from Germany<o></o>

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    Tom


  8. Hello,<o></o>

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    well, I tried these battery tenders which can switch on and of by itself. This works but I never had a full charged battery. So now I disconnect the battery, leave it in the car and every month I check the voltage. When the battery is half full, I charge the battery with a normal charger. <o>></o>

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    In regions with very cold winters, the battery should be always full charged. Otherwise the acid could be freeze. This is also the problem when you use outside a battery jogger. <o></o>

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    Greetings from Germany<o></o>

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    Tom<o></o>


  9. Hello,

    I have to restore the power brake at our 1955 Oldsmobile. I got a kit but there are just parts for the brake cylinder. I found out that the rubber valves inside of the vacuum piston are in a bad condition. Is it possible to get these parts, also ?

    Regards

    Tom


  10. Hello,

    The 235 engine of my 1952 Chevy 3100 leaks oil at the rear main bearing seal. One shop said, that it is necessary to remove the crankshaft and change the front and rear seal. There is no other way to do this if I want a good deal. The other shop said, it is just necessary to remove the rear mean bearing cap, change the lower seal and for the upper seal they have a special tool to change this seal. The first shop will need 16 hours, will remove the engine from the car, remove crankshaft and so on and take for this job $ 1800.-. The second shop says, they will need just 3 hours, will take around $ 200,- for the job.

    What shall I do ? Is it necessary to remove the crankshaft to change the seal ? Or is it ok to change the seal with a sneaky pete tool ?

    Thanks for your help.

    Tom


  11. Hello,

    I have some questions regarding the 1955 Cadillac Hydramatic transmission. The shifting is a little bit rough when I depress the acceleration pedal just a bit to pick up speed. When I depress the pedal more, the shifting is smooth. Is this normal ? And : How to check the automatic oil level ? The shop manual says, that the engine has to run 2 minutes or so in “N”. The level at the dip stick should be at mark “full”. But : The shop manual says nothing about if the fluid should be warm, hot or can be cold. I replaced the fluid and filled up with cold transmission to level “full”. Now I am thinking if it could be, that it is now overfilled when the fluid is really hot after or trip of 100 miles and the fluid starts to foam and that this the reason is why the shifting is hard as described above.

    Could someone help me please ?

    Kind regards

    Tom


  12. Hello,

    I have some questions regarding the 1955 Cadillac Hydramatic transmission. The shifting is a little bit rough when I depress the acceleration pedal just a bit to pick up speed. When I depress the pedal more, the shifting is smooth. Is this normal ? And : How to check the automatic oil level ? The shop manual says, that the engine has to run 2 minutes or so in “N”. The level at the dip stick should be at mark “full”. But : The shop manual says nothing about if the fluid should be warm, hot or can be cold. I replaced the fluid and filled up with cold transmission to level “full”. Now I am thinking if it could be, that it is now overfilled when the fluid is really hot after or trip of 100 miles and the fluid starts to foam and that this the reason is why the shifting is hard as described above.

    Could someone help me please ?

    Kind regards

    Tom


  13. Hi Mudbone,

    I own a 1955 Buick Century, too.

    1955_Buick_sv.JPG

    As you can see, it is in red and white color. I like this combination but this is also not the original color. It was cameo beige with a chekoree red roof. But I bought the car as it is.

    I actually would mostly say, that I would take the original color and trim if I can decide this.

    Regards

    Tom