ThomasBorchers
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Posts posted by ThomasBorchers
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Need still help---
We have installed the Zenith carburetor above but the problem is, that at idle rpm the mixture is too lean, at 1300 rpm it is 10% CO, too rich. Has someone the size of the jets or eben a hint what to do?Kind regards
Thomas
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Hello all,
we own a 1929 Hansa A6 which is fitted with an engine by Continental. Original carb. was a Stromberg UX2 but our is totally rotten. There are some of these cabs on the market but really expensive.
I found now a Zenith 9786D which could be ok for us.
Good to know is the size of the jets. Has someone information about this?
Or perhaps has someone an idea which carb to use instead of the Stromberg?
Kind regards
Tom
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Hello and thank you for your answers.
I have fwd it to my friend and I hope. he will find it.
Kind regards
Thomas
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Hello,
a friend owns a 1966 Cadillac Eldorado and we have the problem to find the VIN for our safety inspection. The plate at the left center pillar post is missing.
Is there a place where the VIN is stamped in in the frame at the 1966 model?
Or if not, where is the engine number located. Perhaps it is still the original engine so it should be then the VIN also. But the best would be a number in the frame.
Kind regards
Thomas
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After changing cap and rotor, it runs really good.
Regards
Thomas
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The rotor had very much play, the nut was not tight. Now it runs much better. But will need a new set of rotor and cap.
Thomas
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There was 25% too much oil in it. Now the plugs are looking great after a test drive. But it is still the problem, that the engine runs at higher rpm not correct. Sometimes there is missing an ignition. I have to inspect the timer and rotor. I have set the coils already with the correct amps with a tester.
Thomas
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Hi Phil,
ok, thank you for the hint.
Today I am at the car and opened the upper oil cock. Since 3 hours I am waiting that oil dripping stops... Soon I have to change the small bucket under the oil cock, then it will be full with 1/4 gallon oil. It takes time since the oil is cold and SAE 40 Type.
Under the transmission my friend installed an extra oil pan. In it is also a plenty of oil.
I have to wait how much oil will finally come out and then start a new try.
Regards
Thomas
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Hello,
a friend owns a 1924 Model T. He always had problems with his engine. Now it seems, that he solved problems with the ignition, the car has a new carburetor, the gaskets to the manifolds are new and work correct.
But... the spark plugs are ( except one ) very fast sooty. If we turn to more lean mixture, it starts to misfire. Engine runs very uneven at every carb setting.
I have tested the compression. I have read that it should be between 50 and 70 PSI. But it has between 36 and 40. The engine got new pistons and rings a year ago, valves were lapped.
So my question is, is this compression too low or should the engine run with this compression?
I just have an idea... what will happen, if the oil level is much to high? I have seen, that oil bubbles were at one spark plug, as the engine run. Could come to much soot when the oil level is to high?
Kind regards
Thomas
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I searched a lot the last days, but found now one diagram via Google. I followed just the circuit from the switch through the connectors. There was always power. Last check was the connector in the trunk. Also power. I connected the cables again and... have now brake lights. :confused: But I really don't know whey---
Regards
Thomas
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@ Larry : Everything looks really good and the stop lights and turn signal have the same bulb.
@ Terry : I checked it as you said but will not work.
@ Jack : This is a good hint. I remember my 1956 Buick I had in the 90s. There I had also problems, if the turn signal lever was not absolutely in the middle : No brake lights.
Has someone a wiring diagram where I can see the colors of the cables?
Regards
Tom
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Hello,
with my 72 Marquis Brougham, I have the problem that the stop lights will not work. I checked the switch at the brake pedal, when I press down the pedal a bit, there flows current through the switch as it shall.
I am a bit confused why I find a second hydraulic stop light switch at the master cylinder. Actually I know it so, if I press down the brake pedal, the stop light switch close the connection so that current flows through and the switch to the stop lights.
But here, there flows always current. So actually the stop lights should always work...
I must say, that I don't understand this system with the two switches. Help....
But I have a guess... is the switch at the brake pedal not for the stop lights? Could It be, that this one blocks the gear lever not to go into a drive position, if the pedal is not pressed down?
Kind regards
Thomas
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Hi Terry, hi RustyO,
I tried it as Terry said and it worked. It was not necessary to go to a high engine speed, just after the engine started, the clutch worked already. OK, rear brake is a bit tight at the moment but not that much. So it is funny, it was possible to move the car with the starter and low speed gear. And now, the clutch works suddenly... :confused: Well, why not...
Regarding starter : After Cadillac tested the system for their 1912 model, they switched for 1913 to a better system and sold the other system to some auto makers : Hudson, Oldsmobile, Cole, Packard... for their 1913 models. I have an old advertinsing here.
So thank you for your help. This saves me a lot of time and work.
@ rusty : The clutch housing has just a filler plug, where I can see the clutch discs but it was not possible to go between flywheel and discs.
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Hi Terry,
thanks for the hint. It is worth a try.
Just for information : The 1913 Hudson has already an electric starter, the first system from the 1912 Cadillac with the 4 x 6 Volts Batteries. And it has already a speedometer but this will not work in this case, since the cable is attached at one front wheel.
Thomas
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Hello,
I have a problem with my 1913 Hudson 6-54 Roadster. After not driving during the winter, I tried to make a small tour but... the clutch will not disengage. I tried several things like turning engine with gear in and clutch pedal down, but it still sticks.
I let run the engine 15 minutes, in the hope that the clutch will warm up and then will no longer stick but... no success.
Then I changed the oil in the clutch system ( wet system with cork inserts ), turned the engine some times during the next days but clutch still sticks.
Has someone an hint for me what to do, except dismantle the clutch ( on the transmission is a big sign : Be careful : Very heavy... :cool: , so if not necessary... )
Kind regards
Thomas
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Hi,
the plastic container is the one for the washer fluid. It is the same I have.
Yes, of course the don't do it for fun. But why Ford / Mercury stopped the expension tanks in 1967. Here at Macs I searched for expension tanks for Ford and Mercury. This ist the result : http://macsautoparts.com/search.asp?sb=0&ls=y&camid=FMP&year=0&make=&ss=expansion+tank&x=16&y=11 I guess if Ford or Mercury used the tank in 1972, Macs and the other part dealers would offer it, or? I can find it until 1967 or much younger.
Well, I am thinking about this : Ford built in 1972 a lot of cars with no expansion tanks and it seems, that it worked. Why should it work not today?
Kind regards
Thomas
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Hi,
thanks for the hints. I will think about it. I browsed a lot of photos of engine rooms but there were never an original expensive tank. I have an original oweners manual and there is also not metioned such a tank.
And when you browse through the offers of spare parts, there are expension tanks offered but never for this year. As far as I remember until 67 or 69.
This is a 66 model. It has the expension tank and there you can see is no filler cap at the radiator. But my car as a filler cap at the radiator. http://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/plugins/PostviaEmail/images/1966_Mercury_Park_Lane_Convertible_For_Sale_Engine_resize.jpg
Here is a photo of a 1970 LTD : http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/df/1970_Ford_LTD_390_engine.JPG cooling system looks similar to my Mercury. No tank... here from a 1972 T-Bird : http://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2007/11/28/01/01/1972_ford_thunderbird-pic-20784.jpeg
Kind regards
Thomas
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Hello,
seems that the problem is solved. I have driven today around 20 min, at 45 to 50 mph speed. Then let run at idle ca. 5 min. Engine was not too hot and as I stopped the engine, it pressed out just a very little water. Perhaps now it was really to much water in it.
Kind regards
Thomas
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This sounds plausible. I put back the thermostat and the engine runs a bit cooler with the thermostat. The temperature at the radiator outlet was lower as it was with out radiator.
But I didn't make a testdrive until now to check if water comes out again.
Kind regards
Thomas
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Hello,
and thank you for your answer. I browsed through several photos but find no container. So I had a look in the spare parts list of Macs. There where two expansion tanks but just for cars from 1960 to 1967.
Do you mean my problem could be the result of the removed thermostat? Perhaps water comes to fast out of the engine at the upper Radiator hose and can't get back fast enough through the lower radiator back to engine, when the engine is shut off... ???
I have to test it...
Kind regards
Thomas
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Hi,
yes, I will try it with the thermostat. Regarding coolant recovery container, I can't see, that there is a space, where it was, if it was installed.
Tom
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Hello,
I recently bought a 1972 Mercury Marquis. Runs great but I have a problem with the cooling system.
I can drive on the freeway, then in the city with stop and go traffic.... no problem. The overheat light is not glowing and it runs around 185°F. But... when I shut of the engine, the water is going out the overflow. So long, until the water level is half of the radiator.
But I can't hear, that it is boiling... I cleaned the system recently.
I have the correct 13 lbs cap but I know, that someone has removed the thermostat.
So my question is, why the water blows out of the system after shutting of the engine after 3 or 4 stops.
Kind regards
Thomas
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Hello,
thanks for the answers. The pump was restored about 6 years ago or so. At this time, there was installed a stainless steel shaft. But the gaskets around the shaft started to leak. We didn't take care of this. Big mistake by us. So water dripped always on the pump housing...
I attached a photo, where you can see, what I mean. I marked it with an arrow. It looks already rusty by the water out of the radiator. And this part is now very thin, I even think, that it leaks already through the material or it has already a crack.
The pump is an aluminium one.
Thomas
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Hello,
I recently bought a 1972 Mercury Marquis. Runs great but I have a problem with the cooling system.
I can drive on the freeway, then in the city with stop and go traffic.... no problem. The overheat light is not glowing and it runs around 185°F. But... when I shut of the engine, the water is going out the overflow. So long, until the water level is half of the radiator.
But I can't hear, that it is boiling... I cleaned the sytem recently.
I have the correct 13 lbs cap but I know, that someone has removed the thermostat.
So my question is, why the water blows out of the system after shutting of the engine after 3 or 4 stops.
Kind regards
Thomas
We have installed the Zenith carburetor above but the problem is, that at idle rpm the mixture is too lean, at 1300 rpm it is 10% CO, too rich. Has someone the size of the jets or eben a hint what to do?
Generator brushes wanted
in General Discussion
Posted
Hi to all,
we have a starter made by Autolite # G537512 from 1929. I need new brushes, browsed the Internet but had no success. Where could I find these parts? Who could help me?
Kind regards
Thomas