ThomasBorchers

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Posts posted by ThomasBorchers


  1. Hello,

    thanks for the hints.

    @ Billy : Well, every car has to go to the safety inspection, when you want a street permission with black plates. Every to years. Even with car built 1905 or so. The inspector was a friend, he owns also classic cars like a 1955 Oldsmobile and 1958 Cadillac. So he knows what he has to check. But inspectors who are not familiar to old cars, can't make these checks. The can do it but often the don't know if something is ok or not. Actually every car who has a light oil like can't pass the safety inspection. Actually every classic car can't pass the inspection. It is a problem here... if you get the wrong inspector.

    I have to look for the rubber mounts, I actually have not seen some... I can not remember this.

    @ Danny : The car runs fine. Just when I start to drive, the clutch rattles a bit, when I am to low with the trottle.

    Regards

    Thomas


  2. Hello,

    I have a question about the torque ball of my 1939 Buick Special Business Coupe. I was at the safety inspection here and they said, that the torque ball has a lot of play, this is not ok.

    When the car is standing with the wheels on the ground, a gear is in and you will spin the rear wheel forward, then the part of the torque ball which I marked on the photo will go forward, moves a bit up, down, left, right and so on. Is this correct, not correct and if not, what can I do to solve the problem?

    Regards

    Thomaspost-30607-143141896871_thumb.jpg


  3. Hello,

    a friend owns an early Reo Roadster. It has the 2 Cylinder engine. We are not sure about the year. I guess it should be a 1908. What do you think?

    The car is in a good older restored condition. He would like to sell this car. What is a correct price in the US for such a car?

    Thank you for your help in advance.

    Kind regards

    Tom

    PS : I posted this one also at the Reo section because I don't know if evereyone browse through all forums.

    post-30607-143138671622_thumb.jpg


  4. Hello,

    a friend owns an early Reo Roadster. It has the 2 Cylinder engine. We are not sure about the year. I guess it should be a 1908. What do you think?

    The car is in a good older restored condition. He would like to sell this car. What is a correct price in the US for such a car?

    Thank you for your help in advance.

    Kind regards

    Tom

    post-30607-14313866889_thumb.jpg


  5. Hi Bob,

    thanks for the answer. A kind of this test I made yesterday evening and it was as you said, the grinding was not to heavy just a little bit. I talked also to the owner before be and he said also, that I should adjust the clutch. He did this also in the past and then smooth shifting should be possible. I will try it...

    Tom


  6. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone> <w:DoNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Hello,

    I own a 1949 Chrysler New Yorker 4d Sedan with the Fluid Drive Clutch. I just got this car and make my experiences. With engine running, car is not moving, it is no problem to shift in low or high. Driving also no problem. But if I want to shift in rear, it makes a horrible noise… grrrrrrr….:( So actually I can’t shift into rear, just if I switch in with force. But this is not the right way, of course.

    So where could be the problem and how can I solve it?

    Thanks for your help

    Tom


  7. Hello,

    as we know now, we own a 1929 Detroit Electric Model 97 and no 1923/24. We are restoring the electric but we are not sure with positive or negative ground. We have a wiring diagram but this is from a 1924 model and it shows positive ground but at our car we have negative ground, what is correct?

    And we would need a wiring diagram of the 1929 Model 97, where could I find one?

    Regards

    Tom


  8. Hello,

    I have for sale a very rare 1931 Reo Royale 4d Sedan. It has still its original paint on it in a very good condition. Body and interior is not restored but the engine and so on got an restoration. Runs and drives great. No rust.

    See photos at : Vintage Automobile - Reo Royale

    Year : 1931

    Make : Reo

    Model : Royale

    Price : EUR 75.000,-

    Location : Zetel, Germany

    Contact Information : Thomas Borchers, Borch1090@aol.com

    Feel free to contact me if you have questions.

    Kind regards

    Tom


  9. Hello Jerry,

    this sounds great. We had a look at the rear shocks. These are Watson Stabilator Type AA. Are these the correct ones ? Some photos would be great.

    And one more important question : Which how much Volts runs your car ? Is it 72 volts or 84 volts ? What is correct for this year ? We have the Model 90.

    Do you have a photo of the rear lamp ?

    We own this car about 10 years and the obly tour we made was very, very slow with fully charged batteries. So now we restore the electric system and need new batteries.

    Thanks for your help.

    Tom


  10. Hi Rusty,

    I found out the solution. We had a 1955 Cadillac Eldorado and I still have the shop manual. There is a large body section and also about headliners.

    You were on the right track with "Or maybe the metal strip was first bent out, the headliner pushed under it, then hammered flat with a wooden mallet"

    The shop manual says, after installing the supportwires, tacked the headliner at the front and rear, then push the headliner at the sides with a headliner installation tool under the reatiner tabs of the side roof rails.

    So I think, that the windlace is tacked with staples first at the roof sides before install the headliner.

    Tom