ThomasBorchers

Thanks for your information. <BR>Do you know if they have a fax or Email?<BR>Thanks<BR>Thomas<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Dear oldford.<BR>Thanks for your reply. Yes it's the generator/starter by Delco.<BR>Thanks beforehand.<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Hi you all.<BR>Who knows where I can get starter and generator brushes for a 1925 Buick Standard Six? I am also looking for timing gears for this car. Maybe at Egge or is there another source? Thank you beforehand.<BR>Thomas Borchers, Member of BCGermany <P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Hi you all.<BR>Who knows where I can get starter and generator brushes for a 1925 Buick Standard Six? I am also looking for timing gears for this car. Maybe at Egge or is there another source? Thank you beforehand. <P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

I mean that products by Zymoel are the best ones. You know these waxes? It is a bit more work as usual and not very cheap but the result is perfect. You can get different waxes for bright or dark laquers. You have to make two steps, because it is a 2-Step System. First you have to clean the laquer with a product by Zymoel and after this you can lay on the wax. See: <A HREF="http://www.zymol.com" TARGET=_blank>http://www.zymol.com</A> <P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA<p>[This message has been edited by ThomasBorchers (edited 07-24-2000).]

Do you mean cars manufactured by Carter or the real Cartercar?<BR>There were a Carter steam car (1901) and by an other Carter Company in 1920 to 1921. A Carter 2 <B>engine(2x4cyl.)</B> car was built from 1907 to 1908 in Hayetsville/Maryland. They built 3 different models from 40 hp to 75 hp. WB was 129".<BR>The Cartercar was built from 1905 to 1915 first in Jackson/Michigan (1905), then in Detroit (1906) and finally in Pontiac. The cars were not very big. The longest wb was 122" in 1912 with a 45 hp. All others were smaller. <P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Here comes a picture of this lock:<P> <P>Rebecca wrote:<BR>The stamped plate on it reads:<BR>THIS CAR IS PROTECTED BY THE<BR>AUTO THEFT-SIGNAL SYSTEM<BR>$100 REWARD<BR>FOR ARREST AND CONVICTION AS A THIEF,<BR>OF ANY PERSON OPERATING THIS CAR,<BR>OR TEMPERING WITH THE SIGNAL,<BR>MILLER CHAPMAN COMPANY, MANUFACTURERS<BR>PATENTED AU S.25,1914 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA<P><BR>Thomas<p>[This message has been edited by ThomasBorchers (edited 07-19-2000).]

The Model A is the car, which is easier to drive. It is powerful enough to drive with it in the normal traffic. You have a normal gas pedal, brake and clutch. If you drive a model T, you have to watch for the spark control; speed and you have to watch very carefully for the traffic because the brake is not the best at the Model T for an emergency stop. We own both and the Model A is a bit to drive like a modern car. Remember that the Model T was developed in 1908! If you would like to modify the Model A, then it is no problem to get hydraulic brakes or overdrive. The T is a good car but not a car for everyday. <P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

My father bought (again) a new old car. A 1955 Oldsmobile 88 sedan. With the car he bought a lot of work. The body is already at the paint shop but we need a lot of small parts. I am now looking for a parts dealer like Cars Inc. for Buick or Macs for Ford. Who sells classic Olds parts and has maybe an online catalog?<BR>Thanks for your help.<BR><P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Bob~~A real nice car. When I always see a roadster like yours (if it is not a Model A)I am thinking back to my 1929 Chrysler 75 roadster. Bad thing that I sold it. <BR><BR>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA<p>[This message has been edited by ThomasBorchers (edited 07-12-2000).]

Were could I get a drip oiler (5 connections)for a 1905 Buick and a brass windshield for a 1910 Hupmobil Runabout (speedster). The Hupmobil has now only this round small glas as a windshield. My friend would like to have now a real windshield like at a 1912 Hupmobil Runabout or at a 1910 Ford Model T Runabout. I don't mean these normal. I mean these with the two extra holder at the floor board. Not a straight one, a bended one. I am sorry. I have no other description in English. The windshield should be 43,30 inch wide. The lower part schould be 7,88 inch high and the upper one 11,81 inch high. <BR>Who can help me? Thanks.<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA<p>[This message has been edited by ThomasBorchers (edited 07-09-2000).]

We own a 1923 Detroit Electric. Our car has 12 6 Volts Batteries. Each with around 120 Ah. I know that there were Detroits with more than 72 Volts. I think it is 84 Volts.<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Vince:<BR>Please be careful with pure normal water. Pure water has sometimes a lot of lime in it. After a while, you will have then Calcium carbonate in your radiator and engine, like in a water kettle. Maybe after years but you will get it. The result is than, that the engine will run hotter. I often cleaned radiator which had this problems. It is not very easy. But there is an easy way that you will not have this problem: Use distilled water. It has no lime in it. <P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA<p>[This message has been edited by ThomasBorchers (edited 06-26-2000).]

Yes, I can crank it by hand! (when I am in a good condition) <P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Today I tried to start the engine of my 1912 Cadillac. Ahh, something new. Normally if I push the small button between the front seats, in the starter moves a small gear and then I push the clutch and the starter turns the engine. Nothing of this is working. I can see that the starter tries to turn the rod to the waterpump when I push the button. Who knows the 1912 starter electric and can help me? I cleaned cable contact points and much more. and <BR>Would like to enjoy a tour in 9 days...<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA<p>[This message has been edited by ThomasBorchers (edited 06-21-2000).]

Just would like to tell that I got the contact points and I am happy. I hope that you, Howard, get the money order very soon.<BR>Thank you, Howard! Great help.<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Now that it seems that I have to change the head gasket at my Model B engine in my Model A and the problems with these two more cooling water holes in the B engine, I decided to buy a new cylinder head. But when I will buy a B-head I will have the problem that I need a B water pump. But it seems that there are not so easy to find. I found now these heads by Brumfield. I think these heads will have these two more holes for the water <B>and</B> I can use my A pump.<BR>Can someone say something about the quality and know someone if they have really these two more holes that it is no problem to use the head on a B engine?<BR>Thank you.<P><BR>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA<p>[This message has been edited by ThomasBorchers (edited 05-16-2000).]

Thank you Hal for this information.<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Now it seems that it is obvious: I have to change the head gasket. I drove today around 15 miles: I stopped the engine and tried to start the engine then after 30 minutes. There was no way to start the engine. We tried to push the car on but no way. My father saw then that there come small white clouds out of the exhaust system with every stroke of the pistons.<BR>How can I convert the torque: 55 ft.lbs to mkg or newton meter (NM)???<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA<p>[This message has been edited by ThomasBorchers (edited 05-14-2000).]

Hal: Too late. I just ordered "Model A Restorers Shop Manual" by Jim Schild. Do you know this book and what do you thinking about it? I will see how good it is otherwise I will order the book you recommended me. But not at Macs. The price is $6 higher as from Cottage. I saw it in the "Restorer"<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Rick,<BR>this could be a part which I should buy in Hershey. When I will carry more things with me this time, Lufthansa will throw me out of the aircraft You have right, of course. No more troubles with cars... Yes, I told Macs this. Seems that it is ok. Perhaps I can found here a B head but probably not. These old cars...<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Yes, these bicyles where built from 1901 to 1907 as far as I know. They called it : "Fahrrad mit Hilfsmotor". Something like: Bicycle with helping engine... As far as I know they built then from 1913 real motor cycles and bicyles without engine. Not very much. I'am sorry but I'm a car man.<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

I found only a very few information about Opel (motor) cycles in the early years. Opel started in 1901 with cycles with a small engines. They developed 1 3/4 hp to 3 1/2 hp. In 1907 they stopped the production and restarted in 1913. Then comes the story with the Opel Motorclub a "real" motor cycle in the mid 20s. But I think you mean these small ones like cycles with a small engine?<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Dave thanks for the tip. It seems that another problem is the A head on the B motor because the B engine has two more holes for the water and the head has these holes not. Someone said I should plug these two holes otherwise it could be that the water find its way out of the head studs...<BR>It seems that I have to change the head in the future because this head is 3 times welded... I will see. Today I ordered over 50 items at Macs. A lot of work. <BR>Rick I will tell you when I remove the head.<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Thanks for the answers Rick. Yes, this is the car I just bought. The car is in a good shape but it needs a lot of small work. By the way: Some Model A guys told me that it is not unusual that there comes a bit water out of the studs just after stopping the engine and no big problem when there is no water in the oil or white exhaust.<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA