ThomasBorchers

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Posts posted by ThomasBorchers


  1. Hi Paul,

     

    thank you very much for your words and thoughts. Yesterday I disconnected the battery over night and also the four plugs for the 8-6-4 system. I started today again and I let the engine idle with the higher idle speed, which the engine has after cold start. A long time there were no or a very few black smoke. Then I depressed the acclerator pedal for lower idle. Then it startet again the usual black smoke.

    But this time, I had not these dropouts in the idling.

     

    Well, I have to see, that I can get the injectors and regulator for a resonable price here. But I have a good source, just 5miles away.

     

    Kind regards

     

    Thomas

     

  2. I have seen now, that in the plug which goes from the coolant sensor to the ECM was / is a jumper wire. I pulled it out and checked the voltage, it is 5.7 volts. I plugged in the plug in the connector to the sensor but there was now change, still black smoke. And it will be darker black smoke, the hotter the engine is.

    The sensor hat a resistance about 1.8 kOhms

     

    The fuel line in my Cadillac has already a tap so I checked the fuel pressure and it is about 9 psi.

     

    I have also found the O2 sensor and pulled the plug but it runs still much to rich.

     

    When I have the ignition on, I looked at the injectors if they drip fuel but they don't.

     

    In an other forum, I have read, that someone had a problem with a vacuum hose and the MAP sensor. So I had a closer look to my sensor. It is a plastic style set like this one on the right side : 19838020rt.jpg

     

    But just the lower one has a vacuum hose, not the upper one. Is this correct?

     

    For me it seems as when the injectors deliver always the same amount of gas at idle speed. On the road, the car runs not bad. But at idle... in short time, I have a black cloud on my property.

     

    Hmmm....

    1981 Cadillac.jpg


  3. Today, I started the engine again from cold condition. Outside it was 55 °F, the start was hard, I used finally a bit easy start spray. OK, then the engine run, I had a look at the exhaust. Was light white smoke. Then the smoke were more intensive but still white.

    Sometimes it seemed, that the engine will stop but run again. This made the engine several times and then at one time, the smoke was black. Then the engine stopped by itself after a minute. But it was possible to start it again and had now again the black smoke…

    Could it be, that if it seems, that the engine will stop, that it has something to do with the 8-6-4 system?

    By the way : I wonder why I don’t have this instrument, which shows how many cylinders are working.

    Now I will try to check the coolant sensor.

    Regards

    Thomas


  4. OK, an update : I changed to the other old ECMs and they work really not. Seems that one produce a to advanced spark ( if they can do it ) and the other one makes a similar trouble with a backfire in the carburetor. But both ECM show me the code "14" and "19". I tried to clear the codes but this was not possible.

     

    But : As I started with the good ECM, the mixture seems to be ok. But after a while ( perhaps 3 minutes ), suddenly the engine run worse and again black smoke.

     

    That's what I found out in the meanwhille.

     

    Thomas


  5. Hello,

     

    and thank you for all the answers. A lot to read.

     

    At Larry : I own a OBD 1 and 2 scanner but have just the OBD2 plug.

     

    At Paul : Very interesting, I have to check all this out. No, I don't have this supplement. I have this big, silver Cadillac shop manual and the wiring diagrams.


    OK, I have to read now, and will come back later.

     

    Kind regards

     

    Thomas 


  6. Hi Jon,

     

    thanks for your answer. Well, it smokes all the time. Cold, mid warm, hot...

     

    I have the original shop manual but there I can see what to do if trouble code XY is displayed. But as I said, the diagnostic system will not work.

     

    So my guess was, to start with the O2 Sensor, since it is to rich all the time. By the way : This is ECM #3 I use... so the computer was already changed 2 times.


  7. Hello,

     

    I am trying to find out, why my 1981 Cadillac 6.0 liter with the nice DFI System runs sooo rich. Lots of black smoke and it needs gas like... don't know...

     

    I can't start the diagnostic system so I have to try to find it out the old fashioned way.

     

    I would like to start with the oxygen sensor and here is my first problem : I can't find it! Perhaps the cable(s) is off and the computer gets no signal.

     

    Can somebody tell me where this sensor is located? And every hint regarding this problem with the rich running engine is welcome.

     

    Kind regards

     

    Thomas


  8. OK, car is back under the roof... :mellow:

    I accelerated a bit more… and then in "Dr" the gear went in and I drove onto the bench again. Then I tried it there from N into fwd gears and R. Well, it takes some seconds, then the gear is in. Or no gear in it in N.

    Could this be a problem of sticky valves or so?

    • Like 1

  9. Today new game : I had to back up the Olds from the car bench for an other car. Wanted to drive it now forward, no chance. I jacked the car up at the rear and see how the wheels are working :

     

    N : Wheels spin backwards but not with "power", it is easy to stop them. 

    Dr, S, L : No turning wheels but I can feel that the transmission is in gear because the idle speed is lower as in N.

     

    R : Wheels spin as they should and faster as in N.

     

    Now my car stands on the outer place and a thunderstorm will come this afternoon... of course... :blink:

     

    Thomas


  10. Hi all,

     

    I have a problem with my 1955 Oldsmobile Super 88 with Hydramatic transmission.

     

    I restored the car the last 16 years. The car stood still all the time, but every two years or so I let the engine run. But the car stood at the same spot. I don’t know since when the car was not on the road before the restoration.

     

    The problem is : When I start the engine, go into R with the gear selector, the idle goes a bit down ( as it should ), I can feel that a gear is in and with acceleration the car goes reverse. When I go then into Drive, it will not move forward. Also not in the other Gears like L and S. When I am in N, the idle goes a bit up again but when I accelerate the engine, it feels as when the car tries to go reverse. When I wait a while, sometimes I hear a small noise and the car has no longer the tendency to go reverse. When I then put into “Dr” it will go forward.

    When I jack up the rear wheels and I try all this, it is working as it should.

     

    The oil level at the transmission is at the F mark.

     

    Has someone an idea what the problem is and what I could do?

     

    Thanks for your help

     

    Thomas


  11. Thank you for all these Information. My father found now again the papers we got by AACA library. They marked the 1929 Moon 6-72 for us with the 11E engine. And there I can find the valve timing ( Intake opens 5° after DC, closes 45° after DC, exhaust opens 45° before DC, closes 5° after DC ).  

     

    But what I am still thinking about, is, why the description of our car shows a 212.9 cui engine.... I will ask Montes what they think.

     

    Thomas


  12. Hi together...

     

    thank you for all your answers and hints. Well, perhaps I should try the AACA Library, if they have a handbook for this engine, since we still looking for the valve timing. Years ago we got a list with several cars on it by AACA, also a Moon with Continental engine. I mean that there was also the specifications to read. But at the Moment, my father is looking for this paper... he can't find it again. :rolleyes:

     

    Kind regards

     

    Thomas


  13. Thanks for your answers. Well, I am a bit unsettled... the guy told me, that it is very important to buy the correct brushes regarding the amount of copper in the brushes ( 6 Volt ) and that it is not too hard to damage the collector.

    On Ebay is a replacement set for 35 USD made by Ohio. And I guess that a company here can make brushes for me. One asked me already for the size. But I was confused regarding the thing with the copper and hardness...

     

    Thomas


  14. Hi all,

     

    Yesteryear helped me to find out the correct brush. It seems that the original tag on the starter is missing. So it is not possible to find out the model.

    The starter is sitting on a engine by Continental which is build in in a German car, it is a Hansa A6 7seater sedan from 1929.

    Yesteryear told me that an Autolite brush MH 54 is the right one after the sizes I gave to them. But for a set of 4 = 100,- USD? This sounds very high to me, or?

     

    Kind regards

     

    Thomas


  15. Hello,

     

    well, we tried it at a special car electric store which has often old stuff but here : No success. Don't forget... I am sitting here in Germany. In USA as I needed a stop light switch for my 1955 Buick, I went to Napa and during a minute I got it there for 7.95. 

     

    Thomas