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John Chapman

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  1. Hobart II? Adam, Rob is correct. The French locks keep the nuts from working loose during thermal expansion cycles and engine vibrations (harmonics). If you check the manifold nut torque it's probably pretty low... on the order of 8-15 F/P. That's just enough to clamp the parts together, but not enough to put sufficient stress tension on the nut to keep it from working loose. If you tighten down enough to prevent the nut working off during operation (60-75 F/P) the manifold ears will likely be the first to fail during thermal expansion (cast iron is weaker than carbon steel), creating a whole 'nother problem. Cheers, JMC
  2. SOLD! Core Quality. Appears complete and sound. Has been stored for 20 years. Carter AFB # 4344S L6 This is a CA-only AFB for the 340. Estimate that has a 450CFM rating. BCA Price $30 + shipping PayPal (VS/MC/Disc/Amex/Debit) PM or email
  3. Slightly faded... NO appreciable pitting. Needs accent paint renewed. Both "ears" intact! No cracks! A very nice piece. Special BCA Pricing: $95 (Includes shipping and insurance) PM or Email PayPal (Visa, MC, Direct Debit)
  4. I sold the '65 Skylark! Selling the accumulated parts. Left and Right Tail Light Assemblies for 1965 Skylark. These were rescued from a desert car and are pristine! NO pitting on lamps or accent bars. NO cracks in metal Will need gaskets replaced and accents repainted. Lenses are the best of three sets. End pieces have some very minor stress cracks. All lenses were buffed and are clear. Includes corner reflectors. You'll be hard pressed to find a nicer set! Special BCA Price: $300.00 Plus shipping. Estimate 20# from 92101 PM or email me. I take PayPal (Visa, MC, Bank Debit)
  5. I have a pristine '65 Skylark NOS hood ornament. Never on a car. A re you still looking?
  6. Smartin, I've not chimed in from San Diego for a while, although I do keep tabs on your magnificent project from time to time. For what it's worth... free advice... If you have the opportunity to replace the wiring with new, I'd strongly encourage you to consider that option. Here's why: Plastic wiring is water proof... but it is porous and over the decades, becomes hard and brittle, and more porous. Herein lies the problem, because moisture does get to the copper conductor and it corrodes it over time. Ever notice that really old wire is tarnished when you do strip it? Braided or twisted wire is ever worse. So what? Well, the physics of electricity is that the current flows on the outside of the metal conductor and the corrosion raises the resistance in path of the electricity. That's one reason old cars have dim lights in spite of solid clean connections at the terminals. It's also a prime reason that high amperage leads like battery cables and starter cables are frequent problems. Resistance cuts current flow and raises temperature, degrading the insulation, allowing more corrosion... repeat cycle to failure. I know personally the best $165 spent on my old Skylark was the new rear body harness. I've also spent a lot of time in really old Navy airplanes with really old wiring (sniff... sniff... "Hey, you smell something burning?"). With a Buick, you could hitch home, but it'd be a sad day. Best regards, John Chapman San Diego
  7. Adam, nice work you've done... I could probably scare up another Centurion out here... I happen to know where a red '72? convertible is wasting away in a driveway... Probably needs a new top... Cheers, JMC/San Diego
  8. Lord Lucas... Inventor of the short circuit.
  9. Joe, Thanks for the refresher. The TBI setup I'm investigating offers a control module for the VSS on the 200R4. The 700R4 gearing: 3.06, 1.63, 1.00, 0.70... big step between 1 & 2. The 200R4 gearing: 2.74, 1.57, 1.00, 0.67... much more civil, methinks... Cheers, JMC
  10. NTX... Thanks for the insights. Maybe a new small Edlebrock and a mild cam/lifter set (like a Crower Level 1) is the way to go... Just need to take the 4bbl manifold to the machine shop for a good cleaning as a start. Cheers, JMC
  11. Joe, Thanks for the insights on relative cost. I'd love to have time to scrounge and pull a system together... it's an issue of time I don't have. So, if I want it done before I'm too old to enjoy it, I'm gonna have to pay for some help. I never can seem to reach a happy confluence of enough time/money/opportunity... one or more are always out of spec. Cheers, JMC
  12. Joe, Thanks for the update on the Edlebrock carb... I went looking and found that you're correct... about $300. The TBI I've been looking at is at: Affordable Fuel Injection - Latest News They seem to address the issues you mentioned. I'm waiting to see what they can do with the 300/4bbl. I'm hoping to put together a car that can do around 20MPG at cruise. Interesting that there are that many four bbl intakes on eBay. You can go a long time without them showing up. Kinda like '65 Skylark tail light assemblies, especially NOS left side... Cheers, JMC
  13. NTX, Something I'm exploring is a TBI setup. I've got the correct AFB, but it needs a complete rebuild and it is beyond my time/talent quotent. Local shops quote around $600 for rebuild/electric choke. The TBI conversion including electronic ignition looks to be about $1200 and would offer greatly improved fuel economy/driveability AND allow for electronic control of the planned 200R4. Look for more as my investigation progresses. Cheers, JMC
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