palbuick

THE FOLLOWING ARE NEW ORIGINAL BUICK ISSUE<BR>BRAKE DRUMS. GR. #5.809 PART # 1236440(OLD #) NEW # 1190755. FITS THE FOLLOWING:<BR>FRONT: 1940-41-42, 60/70<BR> 1946-51, 70<BR> 1952-53, 40/50<BR>REAR: 1940-41-42, 60/70<BR> 1946-51, 70,<BR> 1952- 70,<BR> 1953- 50/70,<BR> 1954-56, 50/60/70/100.<BR>FRONT: 1936-39,<BR> 1940-51, 40/50.<BR>PRICE IS $ 90.00 EACH<BR>ONE PAIR OF USED BUT EXCELLENT DRUMS FITTING THE 1936-37-38-39, 40, 1940,40/50, $60.PR.<BR>SHIPPING EXTRA.<BR>THE NOS DRUMS DO NOT HAVE HUBS, AND CAN BE USED ON FRONT OR REAR.<P>JIM SCHILF / palbuick@aol.com

If you have a shop manual, there should be a wiring diagram in the rear , and all the wires are color coded along with the gage of the wire. I think that the 10 ga. wire is correct, and you should not need a heavier gage. Check wire a connectors they could be corroded or several strands of wire broken, this would affect alternator output.<P>Jim Schilf /palbuick@aol.com

Quite some time ago this subject came up about swapping the Skylark rear ends, and if I recall several people stated that there was a difference between the 70-71-72 , a difference of about an inch between certain years.<BR>It's getting harder to find a repair shop that will & can do this type of work on a older car. It takes too much of their time, most shops just replace, and if a part goes bad they blame the mfg. and are off the hook.<BR>One thing that I have learned, if you cant find a shop to do something like your swap, find a street rod shop, they will do a lot of swapping and altering of differnt parts, like balancing a drive shaft after shortening.. Some times a little more pricey,<BR>but a satisified customer in the end.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

Hi Thomas<P>Don't know if you need them but I have several sets of NOS original TWILITE head light lenses, With the chevrolet lettering on them. 1943 Master application. Still in the original Guide boxes. $ 50.00 pair plus S & H .<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

tHE following Buick parts for sale <P>1939 series 40, Carter Carb, rebuilt # 440S<BR> with solenoid.<BR>1939 all series heater, excellent, maroon<BR> knobs.<BR>1939 maroon cigarett lighter knob, excellent.<BR>1939 maroon interior light switch,excellent.<BR>1936-40, 40/50 exhaust manifold center, with<BR> valve and eat spring, Perfect NOS. NOT <BR> REPRO.<BR>1934-36, 40 SERIES, 1937-39, 40/60 SERIES, <BR> 1940-56 ALL, KING PIN SET BY MOOG.<BR>1939-1941, REAR LICENSE PLATE BRACKET.<BR>1936-53 40/50 SERIES, ROCKER ARM SHAFT NOS.<BR>1939 TRICO WIPER MOTOR NEW<BR>1939, 40/60 REPRODUCTOION REAR GRAVEL PAN,<BR> EXCELLENT REPRODUCTION 2 PIECE.<BR>1936-1953 RARE BELLHOUSING TIMING HOLE <BR> COVER.<P>JIM SCHILF / palbuick@aol.com

I am no insurance agent, but i thought that a buyback was about 10% of the total settlement. I had this happen to me on a rear end accident, Settlement was $5,00 buyback was 500,,total was 4500. I made an extra 1800 selling motor /trans , and a lot of good parts.<BR>A good insurance adjuster, mabye someone on this form could answer correctly.<P>palbuick@aol.com

TRY MITCH ROMANOWSKI. He reproduced these caps , and did an excellent job of it.<BR>contact at mitchromanowski@avenew.com or <BR>847-705-5761, PALATINE ILL.<P>JIM SCHILF / palbuick@aol.com

I can give you the stats on the 66 Wildcat G.S.<BR>There were 21 units with the factory installed A8 (2x4) option.<BR>Flint - 7: Southgate - 3: KansasCity - 4;<BR>Wilmington - 7; Atlanta - 0.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

Hi Gary<BR>The Early Wildcats produced before Dec or Jan<BR>No one ever found dated, all had the Script lettering on the trunk and quarters, I think these were 65 Scripts, and the later production cars had the Block letters My car and Steve Kellys car are Script letters, I don't know about Larrys car, Ledgers car has Block and so dose Jim Kostas car.<BR>My car came from Atlanta, and I think was first day production, Body # 31.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

I havew one of those Wildcat G.S. Convts, A loaded car. A/C, Buckets, P/S, P/B, tilt , cruise, P/Bucket(Driver only),P/Antenna, AM-Fm,Wood Wheel, 4 note horns,P/W, plus the G.S package, consisting of 425 CI. 400 turbo, long console, Tach. Posi(3.23) quick ratio steering. HD Front and rear springs, dual exhaust.<BR>I have list of options for the Wildact G.S., but dosent show production of A/C cars.<P>Jim Schif / palbuick@aol.com<p>[ 08-08-2001: Message edited by: palbuick ]

Of the 5 Wildcat GS Convts, in the Chicagoland area, one is for sale. Will need complete restoration. Good oportunity to get a Rare car.<P>Not my car.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

Hi Robin<BR>I take it that you didn't receive the Wildcat GS list I sent to you. Here are a few of the production figures, for the 66 Wildcat GS.<BR>non-Custom (HT) 164<BR>Non-Custom (Convt) 41<BR>Custom ( HT ) 852<BR>Custom ( CONVT) 198<BR>Dealer ordered 2 X 4 (A8) 21<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

There were a lot of parts that were original on a new car and several months later were<BR> redesigned, Example, the 1970 Wildcat tail light lense, there is a first and a second design, first design has a small back up lense, second design has a larger back up lense. This is where a parts book comes in handy, usually there are two part numbers, indicating first or second design. Both lenses would be considered NOS,<BR>I'm sure that there are many other parts that would fall into this category.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

I would contact Mitch Romanowski first. He has reproduced the caps for the Skylarks, and Rivieras. Advertises in Buick Bugle, he has reproduced a very high quality cap, and prices are reasonable. Contact him at<BR>mitchromanowski@avenew.com, or 847-705-5761.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

Hi<BR>When I rebuilt my 66 Wildcat, I removed everything from the front end, Upper and lower A frames, springs, steering linkage.<BR>Not too bad of a task, use a good spring compressor, inside the springs, Try to locate and purchase any thing you want to replace first, ball joints, springs, tie rods, center links, wheel cylinders, etc.<BR>Paint with POR-15, or powder coat these parts before assembling back onto car,<BR>You can still find good brand parts such as <BR>TRW - Moog, most front end parts were made by either of these Co's. Don't like Kanter's products (made in ???? country)<P>I have set of 4 , 2 upper, 2 lower, balljoints, Moog, for skylarks 1964 to 1972,<BR>new, price is $120.00 all, plus shipping.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

Hi Dan<P>I take it you have not found the wires yet, If your car has the factory console the wiring might be found under the carpeting at the top of the trans tunnel. You may have to remove the console first then pull up the carpeting. I think this where i found the harness in my Cat. it only had the block out plate and no console.<P>Jim Schilf /palbuick@aol.com

Must sell::::: 1969 LeSabre Custom 400, 4 dr Sedan, Original 44,625 miles, Hi-Comp 350-4, 400 Turbo Trans, P/S P/DISC BRAKES, A/C,<BR>P/SEAT, Remote mirror, AM Radio, Auto Trunk release. I have original window sticker. The interior is immacluate, no rips or tears, Color is a Chanpaigne Beige, cloth and vinyl.<BR>Exterior color is Chanpaigne Beige, Had been in storage for over 12 years. Ran Great. There is the usual body rust in front lower fenders and rear quarters. All Chrome, bumpers, grille are excellent condition. Due to a bad front brake line. car is not driveable. Recently acquires some new parts, to go with car. Located Just outside of Rockford Ill. Restore or super parts car. Price is $ 1500. Very RARE car with the Disc brakes.<BR>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com<BR><A HREF="http://www.members.aol.com/palbuick/LeSabre.jpg" TARGET=_blank>Infopop Homepage</A><p>[ 07-30-2001: Message edited by: palbuick ]

Your part is for a 1960 Lesabre/Invicta, all models, except station wagons.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

Your car should have the wires already in the harness. Somewhere under the dash the correct wires are taped together, and everything should just plug together.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

I have used The Eastwood Gray Exhaust manifold paint on my Wildcat, It has been almost 6 years since they were painted. They have just started to show signs of light surface rust. The secret is to have the manifold warm, before painting and to bake or heat them up after painting, to cure the paint. Using a propane torch to warm the manifolds before painting brings any moisture out of manifold.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

Hi<P>It is always helpful when asking for help like this to post the group # along with the part number.<BR>I don't mind looking up a part # to help someone out. But from ones description i could spend a lot of wasted time, trying to identify, As long as the part is in the original box, there is a group #.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

Hi<BR>Are you looking for the small J hook on the convt latch.<BR>I have several used, good condition, ones.<P>Contact Me, <BR>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

Bubba, thanks for information. It is a hollow casting, but the wings are not removable. cast is all one piece. The piece is quite pitted, but these are very small and not deep pitts. Anyone interested can make me an offer, and don't be surprised if I say OK.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

A couple more deaer codes:<P>Peterson Pontiac-Buick<BR>Marengo, Ill <BR>Code 10-753<BR>Purchased was a 1969 LeSabre.<P>Parrish Motor co, Inc.<BR>205 N. Fraser St.<BR>Georgetown, Sc.<BR>From My 66 Wildcat GS Convt.<BR>Dl # 418 ( build sheet had only 3 Numbers<P><BR>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

To the OLD GUY<P>Joe have you ever told what it was like to drive the First Buick V6 Pace car, or the Original Buick BUG. Some of the younger generation of Buick people might enjoy some <BR>old BCA National stories. I know we both have some really good ones from the first three or four Nats.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com