Jerry Shuck

I'll get a hold of Wheel Vintiques. Thanks.

Stockton Wheel does not answer emails or phone calls. Does anyone have any other suggestions for a wheel restoration shop? I'm in Northern California but wouldn't mind shipping out of state if necessary to find a qualified shop.

I installed the cut-off switch thirty years ago and never have had a problem. In fact I never had any electrical problems (other than all high beams blowing out a decade ago) until I got into replacing the ignition switch, light switch and dimmer switch and Hdlp bulbs. Fixed the high beam problem then decided to rebuild the alternator and replace the voltage regulator for good measure. I should have stuck to the old adage; if it ain't broke don't fix it. Guess I'm going with a Bosch alternator next. Thanks to all of you gentlemen for your help.

Jim, the rebuilder of the alternator says that all diodes etc check out fine. He suspects a bad ground to the voltage regulator. I'm about ready to throw in the towel and put an internally regulated alternator it. Do you have a specific brand/model of alternator that you would recommend?

Sorry, don't understand your question. The booster came back as it left with a new check valve and the rebuild/repaint. All is fine so far.

The fella who rebuilt the alternator agrees to let me send it back for inspection. From all that I have gathered, I believe that you are correct about the diodes. Thanks and I'll let you know what becomes of the next go round of remove/ship/replace tasks.

Harmon installed a brand new check valve.

Here is the lates. Lectric Limited sent me a new replacement voltage regulator and here is the new situation; 1. Engine OFF: battery reads 13.9 volts DC 2. Engine RUNNING: a. Regulator humming constantly with dummy light on constantly...a little bit of flicker. b. Battery reads 16.7 Volts DC c. Battery reads 5.0 to .7 Volts AC Can I assume that the diodes are bad? Any more helpful ideas?

The heater core Draftsman was promoted to Director Of Engineering.

My original booster was a silver colored nickel cad which Harmon could not replicate (gold only) so I had them shoot it with silver paint. Stops on a dime now.

JIm, I ran a redundant ground line from the mounting bracket of the regulator to the power steering engine bracket mount.

Great information, thank you. The fellow who rebuilt my alternator tells me that he put three new negative and three new positive diodes in and tested it before shipping. The only thing that I can think of (other than a bad field relay) after reading all of the wiring warnings above is that my alternator (original to the car) had a ground post that was not utilized before I had it rebuilt. I ran a redundant ground wire to the block off of this post. I have always heard that too many grounds are better than fewer. Grounds and all wiring continuity seems solid to me.

Thanks Mark. Call me an idiot but I'm always trying my best to hold onto originality. I need to enter the space age I suppose.

I'll look into that. Thanks

Hello out there. Does anyone know the exact point gap(s) adjustments on the Delco Voltage Regulator #01119515? There are three gaps that might need adjustments according the the tech guy at Lectric Limited but he doesn't know what the gaps should be...simply says that by adjusting the points I might be able to eliminate the contact point chatter.