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JohnnyMaryjo

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Posts posted by JohnnyMaryjo

    need a 6 volt positive ignition coil

    in Technical

    Posted

    5 hours ago, keithb7 said:

    Looks like a flathead, positive ground Mopar to me. If you have a fun driver car, order a new 6V coil on Rock Auto for $20 or so. Ditch that old coil. Run the power wire from your key switch to the negative marked terminal on the new coil. The wire currently going to your distributor, hook it to the positive marked terminal on the new 6V coil. Slide the new coil in the hole in the firewall. Bolt it down. Voila! Easy peasy and done. 

     

    If you want to maintain the stock coil system get ready to spend $300 for a coil.  
     

    My ‘38 6V +ground Mopar with new Rock Auto 6V coil is illustrated. Nobody at the car show noticed it.  Yet, I don’t enter Concours D’elegance. 

     

     

    1730CB2D-F20E-4FCB-A412-C79E36FC76CB.jpeg

     

    8 hours ago, Bloo said:

    Yeah, the other terminal is on the bottom. You are pretty much stuck with used parts for coils like that, or NORS ones from Ebay. They seem to be expensive.

    yes its a 1941 plymouth flat 6

    will that give me more power to my motor when asking my motor for it ?

     

    1941 P-12 Plymouth 6-flat Motor running bad at high RPM

    in Technical

    Posted

    14 hours ago, keithb7 said:

    " I will have to ask my mech. if this is everything he has done?"

    This statement raises my eyebrows. Good troubleshooting means understanding what it's supposed to do and why. 

    I hope he gets it sorted out.

     

    -Test distributor vacuum advance

    -Check ignition timing

    -Set dwell

    -Plugs clean?

    -Check carb for air leaks. Float setting.

    -Remove air filter, engine turned off. Look down into carb air horn. Cycle throttle by hand. Is a raw stream fuel being shot-in when throttle is opened quickly? It should be.

    -With engine running, air filter off. Rev up engine quickly. Have a mustard squirter bottle of fuel ready. When engine stalls out, squirt a little raw fuel in carb yourself by hand. Better? Worse?

    -Engine running. Cycle the choke closed a bit to cut off air supply slightly.  Not all the way to cause the engine to stall. Quickly rev up engine. Better? Worse?

     

    That'll help you get closer to the problem.

     

    thank you tried all of it no change in the way it is acting  ran the same with all you tld me to do

    1941 P-12 Plymouth 6-flat Motor running bad at high RPM

    in Technical

    Posted

    Hello

    when I give the car some gas it goes great but when I ask it for all of it it will sputter , spit, chock and I have to let off the gas and drive it where it will accept the normal 

    why is this .it was running great until this mech. was going to mess with the carb. cause it was running to rich and black smoke out the pipe.

    from he touching it  .It never ran right again.I asked him what he did he said he just placed different jets in the carb. I told him to place it back the way it was I can handle black smoke . but he moved on and passed never did finish this What Mech can take this 1 bar. carter carb and make it correct.

    Who do we trust

    thanks

    Johnny

    1941 P-12 Plymouth 6-flat Motor running bad at high RPM

    in Technical

    Posted

    why is it when I step on the gas full throttle the motor chokes out

    like it is asking for gas or drowning in it 

    but at normal  rpm like around 2500 - 3000  the motor runs fine 

    we have done almost everything  from new carb. all new wiring, reconditioned motor ,voltage  , distributor, and on and on?

    what else is there  ?

      

    why did my 41 plymouth flathead that was always positive ground all of a sudden turn negitive

    in Technical

    Posted

    On 7/21/2022 at 1:43 PM, Joe Cocuzza said:

    Just to be perfectly clear in what you are saying.

    Connecting the meter with the RED probe of the meter to the (+) POS post of the battery and the Black probe of the meter to the (-) NEG post of the battery you are reading (-) negative voltage on the meter, correct?

    yes that is correct.I let the lights in the car drain the battery  but the battery charger will not chargew the battery?

    why did my 41 plymouth flathead that was always positive ground all of a sudden turn negitive

    in Technical

    Posted

    On 7/21/2022 at 12:48 PM, JohnnyMaryjo said:

    i used the meter it says  - 6.16

     

    again it says minus 6.16 on the meter now what to do

    thanks

    Johnny

    I tried to charge the 6 volt battery ( out of the car ) the charger will not charge it  on positive  ( the charger says there is a problem

    I even made sure the battery was completely dead

    does this mean the battery is toast

    IMG_1864.JPG

    why did my 41 plymouth flathead that was always positive ground all of a sudden turn negitive

    in Technical

    Posted

    On 7/17/2022 at 4:45 PM, Bloo said:

    Sounds good to me.

     

    On a positive ground car, the positive cable goes to the chassis. The battery charger does not care about any of this. You always hook the red charger lead to the positive marked post on the battery. It is the battery you are charging, and how the car's electrical system is wired need not be considered when charging the battery with a battery charger.

     

    Check as you outlined with a meter. Red meter lead to positive post and black to negative post. Proceed as you posted above.

     

    If it is reversed, the battery may be toast, but the best way to try to save it is the method you posted above. I would only add that if you have an old fashioned "dumb" battery charger, use it! Some smart chargers will refuse to charge when the battery is completely dead, and it will be completely dead after you run it down with the lights. Letting the battery sit dead while you figure it out is bad for the battery. A possible workaround if that happens, and if you only have a smart charger, is to temporarily hook a second 6V battery in parallel with some jumper cables, and that brings the voltage up enough to get the smart charger started.

    now what to do ?

     

    IMG_1867.JPG

    why did my 41 plymouth flathead that was always positive ground all of a sudden turn negitive

    in Technical

    Posted

    On 7/18/2022 at 10:44 PM, Oldtech said:

    I'm a little suspicious of your charger.  As advised, check the battery with a meter type tester. and beg or borrow an old fashioned charger to charge it with. 

    here is what the meter is saying when hooked to the 6 volt battery  minus 6.16

    I hook the red to pos. and the blk. to neg

    if this is correct now what .

    thank you al

    johnny

    IMG_1868.JPG

    IMG_1867.JPG

    why did my 41 plymouth flathead that was always positive ground all of a sudden turn negitive

    in Technical

    Posted

    On 7/17/2022 at 6:51 PM, Bloo said:

    ^^^Good advice!.

     

    Two things:

     

    1). ALWAYS connect the battery charger red lead to the post marked (+), which is the larger post, and ALWAYS connect the battery charger black lead to the post marked (-), which is the smaller post. This is true with any battery charger. There are no exceptions. This is an exchange between the charger and the battery. The car does not matter. If the charger will not work this way, it is probably a smart charger. Nobody should really have a smart charger as their ONLY battery charger. In the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s almost every household had the same kind of battery charger. It is a dirt simple metal box with an ammeter on the front panel and a switch for 6 or 12 volts. They are rated about 6-10 Amps (it varies). There were a zillion brands of them and the front panel layouts vary but they are all about the same inside. If you have only one battery charger, it should be one of these. They are super common, and if you don't already have one, you can probably score one at a yard sale for $5. That won't help you today, but start watching now.

     

    Here is an example:

     

    contenteetimes-images-edn-diy-resurrect-

     

    And another one:

     

    tte0dJr7gZNmGp6qyFAIeTsVsstY5cC63BEtuUtQ

     

    And now the second thing:

     

    2). I believe you said the charger works if it is hooked up backwards. This SUGGESTS that you are using a smart charger and the battery is charged backwards. That is a lot to assume, and we should not assume it. Check it. As @m-mman says, take a step back. Disconnect the battery and check it with a multimeter. If you don't have a multimeter, one of the absolute cheapest will do for this. It is about $6 at Harbor Freight, and on some days can be had free with a coupon. Check with meter red (VOmA) to positive on the battery, and meter black (COM.) to negative on the battery. Set the multimeter for DC Volts (DCV), and some scale range that is higher than 6 (20 would be good). If you get negative voltage, the battery is charged backwards and you will need to run it down and then charge it correctly as outlined earlier.

     

    cf0ac9d8-ffe3-4aa4-b631-b7be1d1a0d6f-jpe

     

    P.S. One more thing (I guess that's 3 now), NEVER EVER believe the color coding on the battery cables in a car. They are often wrong. You need to know if the car is positive or negative ground, you cannot tell from cables. If you don't know which polarity it should be on some particular car, you can ask here, or you can look in an old Chilton or Motor manual that covers the year. Old 6V Mopars like yours are positive ground. Most 6V GM cars are negative ground, except some prewar Cadillacs. Most 6V Fords are positive ground.

     

    Once you know whether it is positive or negative ground, just hook the battery to the car that way and ignore colors. On your positive ground car the battery cable that goes to the frame, or to the cast iron of the engine block, or to the transmission case ALWAYS connects to the (+) positive terminal of the battery.

     

     

    i used the meter it says  - 6.16

     

    again it says minus 6.16 on the meter now what to do

    thanks

    Johnny

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