TwoLousGarage

Thanks Morgan. We have the old 248 head scheduled to be dropped off at the machine shop Monday. It just makes the most sense to do right by the car and get the correct head on the replacement 38 block. We are hopeful we can swap the valves and springs over, but will order new if needed. I started cleaning the old rocker assembly and have cleaned every pushrod I have in stock.

photos: I forgot to mention. The 38 has a chromed shifter and incorrect horn button. I intend on using it or my original shifter from the 38 w/ no top plate.

Thank you both for the replies. I think we can agree the complete trans is for a 37 Pontiac. I will do more research on it to confirm and post it in the proper sales forum. I do not think the second trans is '38. The input shaft is larger than 1" diameter- I don't have a 1 1/4" wrench at hand, but my 1 1/8" is too small to go over it. Attaching photos of the other 3 transmissions I have. The one with no top plate came out of my 38 with 60K miles, but has no serial number on it. The middle came with my replacement 38 engine (although we know from my other thread that is a hodgepodge of parts) and also has no serial number. The third came with the parts lot i bought, but has a serial number of 330955 which would indicate its correct for a 38 based on the last post in the below thread. All 3 transmissions share the same case number - 1301637. This part number is not in my master parts book, but the 37 case number is listed as correct for 36-37. The 37 has a vertical angled fill plug, all 3 38s have the horizontal. Edit: @pont35cpe It was your post in the thread linked I was referencing for the serial number, LOL! Thoughts? I will add pics from my phone. I would like to keep this thread active and moved if necessary. There seems to have been a lot of questions posted on these transmissions throughout the years. Thanks @pont35cpe and @Bloo for working through it with me!

I have 2 1936 - 1937 (I think) series 40 transmissions. Both in unknown working condition. My parts book indicates the case number (1293153) is for a 36-37 series 40. serial number on the one without shifter is 2909143. Serial number on the one with shifter is difficult to read with a different style of stamping. Asking $300 for both, picked up from Clarks Summit PA

Last inspection sticker on the car is 1971.. my other projects weren’t even in production then!

Additional photos:

Today’s update: I took the housing off the 51 head to compare with my original. That’s going to be a no go. I’m going to bite the bullet and get the early head rebuilt. My NEW question: Can I harvest the valve springs and valves from the 51 head to reuse on the 37-40 head? Bob’s lists the intake/exh valves as 34-52, and springs as 36-52. I can compare after disassembly, but figured I would ask first. It sure would be nice to save $300+ Newest batch of photos for your viewing pleasure. The old ‘38 248 has seen better days. I believe it to be original to the car…

Thanks for this! No gators hat here, I think you see a welding mask in the background next to my Philadelphia eagles hat.

So I read through the shop manual and think I can handle getting the rocker assembly right. Both water pumps have the same part number (1307344). It’s strange they capped off the “new” engine WP. Perhaps I can just swap the thermostat housing and be ok? Also- all the work benches are filled with various 72 GS 455 Convertible side projects. So I used the GS as today’s work bench.

This info is invaluable for a 28 year old trying to revive an old coupe with his dad. So let me first say THANK YOU for the quick and informative replies. So I have the original engine out of the car that is frozen solid. My parts book shows the part number on this head to be for 1940-1945 (1302277), but it has 3 valve cover studs. It also doesn’t have the same paint as the block so I imagine it was swapped at some point. Can I swap this head onto my “new” 38 engine after cleaning it up and making sure the valves are good?

Photo of the water pump and rocker shaft. Rocker arms clearly don’t align consistently even though they are only partially bolted down. What are the groups thoughts on that water pump?

I’ll get some better pics this afternoon if the WP and rocker. The rocker is not currently bolted down, just has a few bolts started

Is there a certain process to ensure that they are oriented correctly? The rocker is currently just placed on there with a few threads started in each bolt. I need to remove it to replace the bent rod anyway

Hi all, I got my replacement ‘38 engine painted in the correct color green and am getting ready to install it in my ‘38 coupe. I noticed the head was only provisioned for the later 2 bolt valve cover and then researched the part number to reveal it’s a ‘51 263 head. The block decodes to a ‘38 model. My question: Will I have any other issues running this engine as is besides the valve cover bolt differences? This engine came with my car as a replacement for the original. It looks like it was fully rebuilt and run at one point, but does have 1 bent pushrod which is making me question its viability. Thanks!

Finally back on the ‘38. It took a while to gather the parts needed. I had to wait almost 2 months for motor mounts. Anyways, I am working on the brakes this week. Rebuilt the master cylinder and will paint it tomorrow (cast iron grey). I am going to try and run the new brake lines this week as well. I also did do a quick buffing of the paint, but it needs more work. We bought a 1972 GS 455 convertible project recently that has also taken some of our attention away.

Should I register it for Hershey? Lol. New engine ready to go, but I need to get new rear motor mounts.

Thanks! I appreciate the kind words and optimism. I believe we will have a nice weathered driver when it’s all said and done. the primary reason I joined this forum was exactly threat- for the detailed threads and info. What I’ve found is that Facebook groups have more foot traffic, but so much misinformation. Guys on forums have often been around the cars their entire lives, and active helping out other members for significant lengths of time. I also am joining the 36-38 club. will update as we go!

Hi guys, a few weeks back I joined the forum to search for info about my new-to-me ‘38 Buick. I introduced myself and have since started the preservation effort. Below is the first video I made documenting the progress. Still working on getting the motor unstuck, but I was pleasantly surprised how well the paint came back with a little compound and some time spent working my DA polisher. I will post additional video updates as they come. Louie

Thank you! I’m assuming it’s going to be difficult to source the rear interior panels? It’s currently gutted outside of the headliner and door panels (which have been modified at some point with custom work)

additional photos and trim tag. The wheels do not look to be correct for a '38 century based on other photos I found. I also found some light overspray on the rear window seal and passenger door seal, so I am going to venture and guess this is not original paint. 1938MOD. 40(?) STYLE No 38-4427B BODY No 6610 TRIM No 400 PAINT No 516

Thank you! The firewall is the same color and has a deeper shine to it, I believe the body will buff out nice. The cowl tag is still there, I appreciate your help. I will get a picture ASAP

Adding photos: