nmhenry

Thinking about retrofitting a heated O2 sensor onto my 88 Reatta. I have seen kits online to do it. Right now on hot start it is taking the oxygen sensor a minute or two to reach operating temp and I would like it to do so sooner. What are the pros and cons?

On a whim I went out and warm started it and it ran rough again. Unplugged the brand new mass air flow sensor and it smoothed right out. It was a cheap sensor. I guess I will bite the bullet and buy a quality one now. Any suggestions on brand?

Well i smoked the engine. No evidence of vacuum leaks. I replaced the old Delco coils and still have the same hot start issue. I guess a new ICM is next since it was a JY unti and I don't know exactly what the condition is. Could a knock sensor cause this? OPA3 stays pretty consistent between 150-300 and no ESC retard. Seems I read somewhere that the knock sensor has a resistor in it that drops ECM voltage to around 5 volts?

I was just thinking I needed a smoke generator. I might just have to build one.

I have changed the intake gasket, throttle body mounting gaskets, EGR gaskets and valve, IAC and o-ring, built a new vacuum tree and made a gasket for it, changed every rubber vacuum line I could find, tested all the vacuum circuits with a hand held vacuum pump and they hold vacuum, changed the PCV grommets and valve, and sprayed more cans of carb cleaner around everywhere to attempt to find vacuum leaks. Maybe there is something I missed but I don't think so.

Would there be any negative effects of running with the regulator disconnected?

New injectors seemed to have helped some but the problem persists. I have unplugged the fuel pressure regulator and plugged the vacuum port and it seems to idle better hot. I tapped on it after I shut the engine down and the pressure actually increased according to my gauge. It did drop tp 20 psi in about 30 minutes but it did prime and start right up. I am wondering if the decrease in pressure is allowing the fuel to boil in the line or in the rail and is basically vapor locking the system until enough cool fuel flows to cool everything down? Seems unlikely though.

Our Buick dealer won't touch anything over ten years old.

That is what the site said. I figured for $10 more per set I couldn't go wrong. Hopefully this fixes the problem. I have literally changed everything else.

No fuel in vacuum line.

I'm going with CS performance upgrade injectors. https://www.cspinjectors.com/shop-all/upgrade-fuel-injectors/upgrade-fuel-injector-for-280150901/

I just read the post that I think you are referring to. I find that as we become more proficient in our profession we tend to think and talk to others as if they were on the same level as we are and forget that most others do not have our knowledge. I have been doing heavy duty truck parts for 30 years now with some light duty interspersed in there. I find that often I have to dumb down for lack of a better term, the way I refer to various parts, etc. when talking to people. Same thing here. Imagine a scientist trying to explain nuclear physics to you using terms he understands. He and his peers know what he is saying but he might as well be talking in Martian to the likes of you and me. We just have to be patient like you have been with me helping me with my problem on my daughter's car.

Well, Through the process of elimination I have eliminated the ignition, engine management, and exhaust systems as the cause of my issue. I have also eliminated vacuum leaks as my issue. The car now holds 17-18 inches of vacuum. I am now concentrating on fuel system. I had previously replaced fuel filter and have replaced the pump and sock. I now have a set of injectors and fuel pressure regulator ordered. Wish me luck.

I know it is not ignition issue. I have already tested that and even installed a Delco unit. I am leaning towards fuel now. I have changed fuel pump and filter and now I have a set of injectors ordered and a new regulator.

I have installed the Delco system on this car.

Just keep doing what you are doing but explain what the acronyms mean. The younger crowd has grown up in a different time and have a little different language that we do. No you have not outgrown your usefulness.

I didn't. Seems to work well.

The hole in the end of the intake looks like it would have to be threaded at least 1/2" NPT. Looks to be enough material to thread deeply enough. I'll probably take to a local machine shop that I have a good working relationship with and get them to do it.

I now have the intake off of it. The vacuum manifold on top was loose. EGR gasket was burnt between two ports and the center and two intake ports on the heads look like they have been sucking oil past the intake gasket. I am changing every gasket and O-ring on top of the engine now. Has anyone ever threaded the heater pipe port to pipe thread, put a hose nipple in there and done away with the pipe?

Anyone have a good vacuum manifold (the part that bolts to the top of the intake) i=or pictures of how they repaired or built a replacement? Broke one of the ports off it so I drilled it and JB welded a plastic vacuum fitting into it and I don't think it is holding.

Update: Ugraded to Delco ignition and coils. Runs much better. I will see in a little while how it starts warm but so far so good. Idle still feels a little rough but that may be due to old motor mounts. They need replaced.

Did that. No gas in the line and the regulator holds vacuum

Thanks. I will try that. I don't know why I didn't think of it.

Already tried that. No difference. Going to convert to Delco ignition tomorrow night or this weekend to see if that helps. I vacuum tested the fuel pressure regulator and it held vacuum though that doesn't mean that the regulator is good. Wish there was an easy way to test for a leaky injector.

That's pretty much the gist of it. It is running rich at idle. You can smell the gas at the exhaust and it has very poor idle. When started warm after sitting for a while it misfires like an older engine with the choke stuck closed and will do so until I get on it and cleat its throat. I noticed a fuel smell in the intake when I was changing the MAF. Possible leaking injectors? Fuel pressure will drop to zero after sitting for about an hour but that may be normal?