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hibdude

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Everything posted by hibdude

  1. So the reason I mentioned that keyless entry wasn't working was because I tried grounding the unit with the green connector in the trunk wheel area, and it was dead. I disconnected the plug from the keyless entry unit, tested the power and ground wires I found in the service manual, and they were good. So I plugged the unit back in, and it came back to life. So I now have reprogrammed the key fobs and all is well! I just checked the ground on the trunk light and found the issue, so now it's working. Thanks for the help!
  2. Agreed on the door chime. Not something I will deal with for now. Thanks for the tip on the light. And looking at the schematic for the remote keyless, I found the hot and ground. I'll test for both. Thanks!
  3. I've replaced the trunk bulb, but that didn't resolve it. Is there a way to test the chime module and the keyless entry module? I hate to just start throwing parts at it unless there's no other option.
  4. Well, I double checked the fuses and found #2, 20 amp, was out. Got most of my interior lights, mirrors, and door locks. I still don't have the door chime, trunk light, or remote keyless entry. But I'm making progress.
  5. I've got a 1990 service manual, but I'm new to reading electrical diagrams and diagnosing electrical car issues. You might note my picture in the original post is from my manual. I was just hoping to find someone more familiar with chasing electrical issues with interior components on the Reatta and get some more direction. Ronnie - I've spent quite a bit of time on your site, and it's extremely valuable. Thank you! I pulled the codes, and I get no E, b552h, and b671c. From the chart on your site, that indicates a cruise servo position sensor circuit problem, and an historical BCM memory reset. I do have a cruise issue, but I wasn't sure it was related to interior lighting. Seems like all my interior lights don't work (door courtesy, footwell, ashtray, dome) along with door mirrors, door locks, trunk light, remote keyless entry. Seems like many of these issues should have something in common... Any thoughts?
  6. What do you mean by "master switch"? A relay? Where would that be?
  7. I'm really grateful for all the knowledge and insight from this forum. I'm new to the Reatta, but I'm stuck working on a problem(s). And I'm hoping for some guidance from you more experienced owners. I recently purchased my 1990 Reatta coupe with 107K miles, and it runs pretty well mechanically. I noticed that the interior lights, dome light, door lights, and trunk light didn't work. I checked/tested all fuses, and they were good. But I first wanted to address a few issues with the seats. The seats were having issues reclining, so I removed them and was able to take them apart and get them working. After I put the seats back in, I noticed the electric mirrors, door locks, and blower motor now don't work (blower display works). So I decided to pull the seats back out and dive into the floor splices. They all looked good (clean/dry/no corrosion) and tested with continuity on both driver and passenger side. I started thinking about ground issues, so since I was already in this far, I removed the rear storage compartment looking for ground G312, but there's nothing back there. My center console side panels are riveted to the armrest frame, so I'm not sure I can get the side panels loose. There are no screws (unless I missed them). I'm sort of in a holding pattern at this point, not sure which way to turn next. Does anyone have any thoughts? Should I be looking elsewhere?
  8. So my driver seat is stuck in a semi-reclined position and won't move up or down. I've been able to get the seat out, and remove the cross-over cable between the left and right side. The right side is the one that's frozen. After removing the cable, the motor spins fine under power. I was able to remove the mechanism and get a few pictures. The square metal section is riveted together, and that seems to be what's stuck. On the opposite side of the cable is a plastic slotted piece, which will turn about 1/8 turn, but is really stiff, and I'm hesitant to force it. Does anyone have any thoughts on where I should go from here? I'm not sure what to do, since I don't know what this looks like inside. Are these available anywhere?
  9. Thanks for the response. I was able to get the driver seat out and do some diagnostics. I'm looking at the motor and mechanism to change the seat back angle, and I was able to remove the connecting rod between the two mechanisms at the hinge points. After removing the connecting rod, the motor moved freely in both directions. It looks like the mechanism on the right side of the driver seat next to the motor is stuck. Does anyone know how to check/test/clean/lube these? Do they need to be removed to work on them? Looks like they are riveted together.
  10. Starting to work through some issues with my 1990 coupe. I applied the emergency brake to jack up the front and change the oil, but after releasing the emergency brake, the dash light for the brake is on. It seemed to release fine, and the car seems to roll in neutral just fine. What's the best way to deal with the e-brake light? Is the switch easy to get at? Also, my seats move pretty well except for the seat-back tilt. The seat side switch on the driver side activates the motor in one direction causing it to twitch. On the passenger side, the seat back twitches in both directions. So I seem to have power. I removed the plastic panels on the rear seat bottoms and I can see the mechanisms and feel them try to move. Is this possibly the tilt mechanism, or should I start with the motor? I'm not sure how to attack this, since I've never worked on an electric seat before. And I have a service manual on order... -Brian
  11. Thanks for your thoughts. I definitely need to find a Service Manual. Looks like there are several sellers on ebay. I'm looking for new parts, and you mentioned Riviera springs might be different. Is there a way to check that spec? I wouldn't mind having self-leveling in the rear, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Appreciate any and all input. As soon as I get a warm day up her in WI, I'm hoping to tear into it (after the service manual shows up...).
  12. I just jumped into the Reatta world with the purchase of a stock 1990 Reatta Coupe with 107K miles. Most everything works, but my first big goal is to get the suspension back to normal. The front end is a little bouncy, and the rear is soft and rattles. If I want to restore my ride to that "like new" feeling (nothing fancy or modified), what should be on the to-do list to check/replace? I'm sure the shocks/struts are bad. I'm used to buying coil over strut kits for my Camry, but looks like there's more details to consider.
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