Brtele

Bill, Could you please elaborate on the temporary solution you have come up with? I'm sure I'll have to come up with something. Thanks,

While I'm waiting on Harmon to rebuild my brake booster, I might as well post the completion of the seat recover. The Clarks seats look great. The upholsterer I brought them to had a little bit of an issue with the passenger side front - a seam ripped while pulling over the frame/cushion, but they sewed it back and you can't tell. Overall they look great. The front seat cushions (purchased through Clarks) are not wide enough at the corners. The upholsterer had to add a decent amount of padding to get the wrinkles out. Also, the buttons supplied kept separating and popping off of the metal piece. Clarks was apologetic and sent another batch of buttons - when they arrived there were two already separated, so I know it wasn't the installer's fault. Clarks is going to look into it, but my upholsterer superglued them back together and ran a thin bead of superglue around the seam of the ones that hadn't failed as a possible precaution. Again, overall the product looks very good and makes the car look so much better. Now I just need these brakes back together so I can drive this thing.

I rebuilt my 65 front drums utilizing parts from Rockauto, Amazon and Napa. I believe most of the parts are available - can't speak for the drum itself as I reused my existing.

OK - after almost 2 weeks, I've got a very small coolant leak that appears to be coming from the alternator/water pump bolt. I gave the bolt a little more turn to see if it'll stop the leak (it had been a few heat cycles - and I was really questioning the 6-8lb torque rating). Anyways, I'll keep an eye on it, but it feels like I might have to take the bolt out and reseal with a better thread sealant application and gasket maker to the head section of the bolt.

Ok - Brake Booster removed last night - mine was definitely a two-man job getting the booster freed from the brake pedal shaft. I thought I might be able remove the booster by sliding the brake master cylinder forward enough without disconnecting the brake lines - nope, my brake lines had to be removed (dual master cylinder). Booster is on its way to Harmon in GA - we'll see how it goes. This is also a perfect time to install some rubber in the steering shaft to keep engine heat/fumes from traveling up the steering column - sucker gets really hot. I've got to figure out where to purchase the correct kind of rubber for this job.

Did you use Harmon as your rebuilder?

Agree, I'm going to rebleed to make sure - but it didn't feel like pedal drop from air. It felt like I was pushing against a spring or something mechanical.

It definitely required "plan ahead" braking - luckily it happened without any prior warnings 40 miles from my home in rush-hour KC traffic. These non-power brakes are also not linear..."Here's a little bit of brake and just a wee bit more is, tires about to lock up". Thankfully it happened right after I got the water pump replaced, interior replaced and the carb rebuilt just in time for nice weather driving. Harmon said 3-weeks from receiving the booster - no cool September cruises for me this year. Awesome.

The are all new. The idle rpm increase when I press the brake pedal is what I believe is pointing at a failing brake booster. I'll disconnect and plug the brake booster vacuum line, press the brake pedal to confirm there isn't a rise in idle rpm, but I'm pretty sure the rpms aren't going to move once the line is disconnected/plugged. Thanks,

Agree, but I'm very positive the brake booster is leaking. I have zero brake assistance. When I slightly press the brake while sitting at idle, I can hear a loud hiss and the rpm's immediately increase - stays increased as I hold the brake pedal. When I let off the brake, the idle goes right back down to normal rpm. Tells me the booster check valve is functional, but there is an atmospheric leak downstream of the check valve. Taking it apart tonight.

I might have to replace my brake booster after I test it further tonight. Does anyone have a lead on where I can purchase a good 65 Bendix brake booster? I know I can send mine off to Harmon/Dewey to rebuild, but I'd like to replace with one while I'm elbow deep in replacement. Thank you,

I drove the car about 40 miles last night and it ran great - I did not have a plug on that vacuum port (pictured). This morning - I put a plug over that carb vacuum port and the car continued to run great. But when I finished the 30 mile run, the RPM's increased a good amount while pressing the brakes at idle. Even in park, I could increase the rpms maybe 50-100 rpm by pressing the brakes. This was not like this ever before. I believe there might be a brake booster vacuum leak that finally reared its head once I eliminated all other vacuum leaks. Please let me know if I'm thinking correctly. Thanks,

This might be another stupid question - I have what looks like a vacuum port just underneath the air cleaner on the passenger side. All of my vacuum related accessories are hooked up - should I simply plug this port? Thanks

Solved - flipped the secondary venturies and everything came together much better - what a dumb mistake, ha. Got the dashpot adjusted and took the car for a spin. No more stalls on rh turns and the secondaries opened up without an issue. Very cool.

I think I might have just figured it out. Everything I’ve read said the tiny outside hole on the secondary Venturi was supposed to be on the outside. When I flipped the secondaries everything fell into place much better. I think I had the venturies swapped left to right incorrectly. we’ll see