joseph demeyer

now that's paying attention to details !

It must have been an accessory (not factory installed) so the owner could choose the location. In my car there are indeed two dimples in the right inner fender opposite the dip sticks but the space between them is one inch longer than between the holes in the metal bottle holder clamp...so who knows ? But I am considering placing the holder clamp on the firewall between the wiper motor and the VIN plate (covering it by just an inch of the bottle neck. ) Yes it will be horizontally, looking a bit weird, but don't want to take the risk that the gas attendant drops it when walking from right to left side to fill the fluid reservoir : those greasy hands ! but still making sure they tighten the bottle cap well so no fluid drips out. Will include a photo next time. Thanks for your investigative comments !

I have a 1960 Buick LeSabre and recently bought a replica wiper washerfluid bottle: the glass triangular one with a replica ( well they don't make the exact Buick one but the GM) sticker and black metal cap and metal holder. But now where to place it in the engine bay ? I have not come across any photos of it....In the cars engine bay on the right side just opposite the oil and tranny dipsticks I see two holes in the inner fender which would be a good enough place to attach the holder because the gas attendant while checking those dipsticks would also look at the bottle (though walking around the car to the opposite where the automatic washer fluid reservoir is entails the risk of dropping the glass bottle - those hands can be greasy, right ?) were it not that the those holes in the fender are 4 inces apart while in the bottle holder they are three inches ( is it also not the exact replica ? I doubt it because the metal strip is almost too short to have two holes at that distance. Or is the entire assembly an incorrect replica ? I doubt that because i did find on e-bay a purportedly original 1960 Buick assembly; the holder looks also like the replica. But it is in really bad shape so not worth it to go back that far in time. Was this an accessory and was it up to the buyer to place it anywhere but suitably in the engine bay ? Sorry for the long expose, but because it is quite a visible object in the engine bay I want to make sure I get it right and originaly placed if and as done so in the factory.

would anyone know where in the engine bay of a 1960 buick this bottle goes ? I see two holes in the right inside fender opposite the oil and transmission dip sticks but the distance in between is four inches while the clamp of the -reproduction- bottle clamp has a distance of three inches. That location makes sense: though opposite from the actual plastic reservoir which is attached to the firewall, it is next to the other two fluid check points while being serviced at the gas station; the attendant would immediately also have access to the washer refill bottle. Any answer would be highly appreciated before i start drilling holes elsewhere !

well...guess what ! by chance I found left and a right gravel guards that go on the bottom front of the rear wells, from some one who posted also some other ( useless) parts of a 1960 buick... he did'nt realize they are priceless...they are shiny stainless steel and in very good condition so now this car looks totally authentic from the outside

Ha..I am looking too ! but I see from your full car picture that you want/need the complete wheel well molding because your front wheel wells have it; but actually originally these cars had only a short trim molding at the lower beginning of the rear well...( and not even on the front wheel wells ) you can clearly see that on some pictures of these gorgeous cars and you can also see the screw holes at that location. The full lenght wheel moldings were probably only available on the electra models and as an extra on the invicta and sable models. But those last two models definitely had them at the lower beginning of the rear wells. But they must have been prone to (rust) destruction so extremely difficult to find...Maybe with the increasing value of the '60 buicks, especially the convertibles and two door coupes , an aftermarket may eventually develop but I doubt it because their production and survival numbers are so low (which actually adds to the car value..). In any case I am convinced that these cars while not really popular when they came out ( rounded off, hand washed '59 soaps they were called .. ) their design is unigue in american car history and remind me of fine italian body metal sculpted cars ! keep in touch and let me know how you are doing with this search and so will I .

Going back to the PCV modification: does any one know where I could get a SPACER with a PCV port to put under my 2 (two) barrel Carter carburator on my 1960 Buick Lesabre engine ?

The purpose of the PCV is to first of all burn off any unused fuel vapors ( if I understand correctly) I noticed that my fuel tank releases a noticeable amount of fuel vapor through its rubber hose vent tube sticking out next to the filler and fuel tank cap . It seems to go to waste. Has anyone ever connected a long hose connected to this vent tube back to the engine bay and the PCV and have the vacuum transfer this fuel vapor from the fuel tank into the carburetor for a better usage?

Can this nailhead run relatively smooth on six cylinders ? the reason I ask is that recently I discovered two of the sparkplug cables were wrongly connected to the distributor ! yet the transporter drove it a mile through town and I in and out of the garage without protests. But after correcting the cables I noticed indeed a calmer vibration but the heavier smoke from the breather tube: at least one of the previously non firing cylinders has a broken ring issue ? Will perform a compression test on all eight before an expensive rebuild. In the meantime I simply enjoy repairing minor issues : freeing the wiper motor-mechanically, more than the electric cat eye clock, the most complex piece on this pre-digital car ! - from hard caked grease: perfect now, even the washer !; finally fixing the leaking raingutter along the top bottom for a dry trunk; getting all the lights to work including improvised roof and trunk ones and even an interior fader ; repairing a mice investation damage in the front passenger seat - and eradicating the smell ! ; clearing all the body drain holes; replacing the bastardly frozen temperature switch and repairing related vacuum lines, switches and wires : let there be light on the instrument panel ! ; installing rear panel speakers for that surround sound from the new repli-radio (even though the old tube one amazingly still worked ! ); and now putting black beauty's behind on jacks to test the speedometer and fuel gauge...That's how these past two Covid years were blissfully overcome. Yes, will keep you posted ! (oh...did I mention I got that clock running again ?)

This is turning into a rather interesting technical discussion but I am not willing to compromise the original engine configuration of my black beauty for the sake of experimentation. Instead of Klotz (not with an s..) oil, has anyone experience with NonSmokeOil (synthetic) ?

thanks and I agree: the least intrusive modification is often the best ! so you believe in synthetics even in antique cars....you have quite a resume !

Interesting topic i am considering for my 1960 buick lesabre nailhead. Can you drill a hole in the VALLEY PAN near the carb, insert a grommet that fits the pcv and lead from there a hose attached to the airfilter near the carb opening for the vacuum; and finally close off the breather tube at its end opening. But indeed what about the deposits on the intake valves ? Presently that breather tube is smoking heavily when idling. I dont want to clean its "filter" as it means removing the intake manifold as the only means to remove the valley cover with access to that filter. Is there any other way of cleaning that filter ( if its even necessary to decrease the smoking) or could the excessive smoking be caused by a broken piston ring (letting exhaust smoke escape into the crankcase) The engine actually runs pretty fine but maybe a compression test can give answers. I just like to run a clean engine and burn the oil fumes and any residual gas vapors - as the PCV was introduced for.

Terry I do agree with you..too much make-up destroys the original natural lines..but thought i'd just like to try what it looks like..maybe first foto-shop ? and yes wire wheels are high on my list too...but very expensive and still repairing some inside things first..thank you: it's my big black beauty..bblbty on the plates !

I would like to add a bit of shine to my 1960 Buick LeSabre convertible and am looking for chrome wheel well trim, front and back. But where to find the right curved ones that fit ?

my latest most recent reply may have been confusing..Today i consulted the 1960 Buick Chassis Service Manual and on page 10-59 very clear ignition switch and lock repairs. Only in the OFF position there is spring load and a very short CW turn allows the lock to pull out. After removal of the bezel and disconnecting the leads I removed the entire ignition switch assembly with the little lamp. The carton cover with small light slit opening was gone so i replaced it. Before re -installing I filed a groove in the key hole ring at the place when it is in the OFF position so that more light can exit . The filing can not be seen from the outside. Now every things works as desired ! thanks for your interest..and yes water leaks suck ! Replacing the door windows belt line rubber weather strip ( on the exterior side ) is also a fun exercise in improvisation (when not removing all the window cranks, arm supports and door handles) and one should certainly not forget to replace any missing polyethelene sheet covering between the inside of the doors and the interior door side, inserting it in the appropriate bottom slit...it always amazes me how much water still seeps inside the doors and comes out of the bottom drains (now also covered with little rubber flaps to keep road dust and salt outside ) (Maybe I should place these notes in the My 1960 Buick forum posts)

and here is the subject of all that labor of love

sorry Frank for not replying sooner (got distracted by very nasty water leaks in the rain gutter of my convertible top causing puddles in the trunk left and right-finally fixed by installing an inner lining over the welds ) So yes I can feel the spring action but only with the key in the OFF position (and I can not see the little light-only in the other positions with the key pulled out) So maybe the ignition switch was replaced in the wrong position ? I also wonder how the bezel can get over the key hole as it seems to be just a fraction too small - but then how did it get over it when installed ? In any case: it all seems to be still stuck...I will try to turn the switch around from the back : the lamp should be on the right as it is now on the left side. Is that the correct location ? Thanks for your input !

i am restoring my 1960 buick lesabre convertible and am confused by the IGNITION SWITCH: 1) even with depressing the release pin (?) by using a paperclip through the access hole the switch will not get out (turning it clockwise does not do it neither does anything else) but ok the switch does work and does not have to get replaced. 2) more puzzling is the presence of a -switch- light/lamp inside the housing: it lights up but i do not see any difference...does it have any function ? and if so ...how ?