Henri Hendriksen

It is a master 6 Marvel 10/105. Carburettor is not fit for service. The gland for the fuel needle is broken. Looks like fuel needle is missing. Why in hell is it painted blue? It is a parts carby only. I offer you $20 plus postage to Australia. Please contact me if you are OK. henri.hendriksen@internode.on.net. Cheers. HH.

I had a good read through all the suggestions. It could be a fuel problem e.g. a suction problem getting fuel out of the tank. Is the tank cap breathing hole clear? Is the fuel pick up pipe in the tank OK? Banjo connection on the tank OK? You compression looks good. Stick with 0.008 valve clearance. Less clearance might not close the valves properly. You can even make it 0.010 it doesn't make that much difference. Make sure the distributor shaft is not slipping on gear. As far as I know the timing should be 17 degrees before top dead centre. This is on my 1927 master. You have to confirm that! You said 6 degrees BTDC. If it should be 17 degrees it is a problem! It will not pull up the hill. I think your vacuum measures are OK. The brass air adjustment knob on your carby should be level with that ratchet spring. Make sure the spring inside the knob is OK. Have fun!

By the look the cooling system is very dirty. It needs a decent reverse flush and cleaning agent in the cooling system to get rid of all the scaling. The outside of the radiator looks still OK. Just a good internal cleaning should fix it. No replacement for the thermostat! You have to make one from a modern thermostat mounted on a piece of pipe with a hole in the side. That is what I did with my 1927 master 6 and it works well. Your radiator cap is not a Buick supplied cap. It is an after market model. They need a good seal otherwise it will leak like a sieve. There are still some companies who make honeycomb radiators but I would say they cost at least 2000 Euro. If your one hasn't got a big hole in it, stick with your one. And believe me the radiator has to be as clean as a whistle to work well! A good quality radiator coolant will keep it clean. I use an oil soluble coolant, it has a higher heat transfer capacity then glycol based coolant. Another hint, connect a piece of hose to you radiator overflow pipe. Have a 4lt container with the hole into the top and put the container under the bonnet under the vaccuum tank. It will collect the water it spits out of the system. If your radiator cap seals of properly it will suck that water back in the engine once it has cooled down. The end of the hose has to sit in the bottom of the container!

JP pistons in Australia make good quality alloy pistons. (see website) My 1927 master 6 has got JP's they have been good for about 14,000 miles so far.

That is a great way to derust. Another way to derust and very simple is use a mixture of 1 part Molasses and 4 parts of water. Depending how rusty it is, one day to 3 days soaking in the mixture. You can get it from a stock feed agent because it is used to feed cows.

Hello Vintage car lovers. I would like to know if anybody of you know where I can get (apart from Bob's A in California,because he hasn't got one) a fibre timing gear for a 1927 Buick master six engine. From 1924 to 1928 it was the same gear. The part number: 204838. I stripped a few teeth of my for some reason. Regards. Henri Hendriksen. Down under.