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MyhreMade

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Posts posted by MyhreMade

  1. 17 minutes ago, NightTrain said:

    Also, when you get to the carb, thats a lot of fun too, let me know…got some tips.

    Thanks everyone for the tips. I’ll definitely be checking all of those things. I had the carburetor rebuilt by national carburetor in FL. Cost about as much as a rebuild kit and this way I know it’s done correctly. 

  2. Got the spring I was missing for the heat riser installed. BD8F7F62-FAEA-4D36-9D15-107306B6DD1D.jpeg.3bbce4288bb927e5f1b7d554977d5da1.jpeg

    found a few of these older style hose clamps on eBay to replace this newer styler that was on the car.

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    I found out the battery tray from an older model chieftain does not fit the 53. There is a hole that is missing on the older bracket. I kind of beat my original ones up trying to get them off. Didn’t think I was going to use them. I ended up having to put it in the press to get the bend out.05CCB2C2-9A59-4429-8769-E120BD1F87DB.jpeg.49a98973e4d7a60cd4079b4f0d223d1b.jpeg59B15A73-3BD3-4A91-A961-38C47768AFA6.jpeg.9dd2e1baf1745e3eebcbeb3f71aff531.jpegalso finished putting back together the fuel pump.

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    • Like 3
  3. 7 hours ago, Bloo said:

    Well outside of completely rebuilding it or finding another one, you'll just have to get it freed up. Get some MoPar heat riser solvent, MOPAR #4318039AD, best penetrating oil ever. Chrysler calls it "Rust Penetrant" now that they haven't made heat risers for a few decades. Amazon probably has it. Spray some on the bushings, inside and outside, every day for about a week. Then try tapping on the end of the shaft with a small brass hammer. Just a couple of taps on each side, don't hurry it and don't overdo it. If there are bushings in there, you don't want to separate them from the housing, because then the heat riser will be sticky and unreliable.  Don't use a steel hammer because it might mushroom the shaft, and if my method doesn't work you will need to get the shaft out. You DO want to shock the rust. It is brittle. That's why brass is better than plastic or something.

     

    So, just a couple of taps on each end, then put more heat riser solvent on and the next day a couple more taps on each end, and more solvent. Do this every day until you see it move to the side a little. Don't force it. Once the rust is broken up the solvent will get in real good. Spray more on and wait another day. On the next day, try to work it a little. Maybe it just comes loose. If it turns a little but isn't really free, spray more solvent and wait another day.

     

    It can be done. This usually works. Patience is everything. It goes a lot faster if the car is running, and you can heat cycle the parts by driving it every day, but obviously that is not an option here. If for some reason it doesn't work I have more ideas but none near this easy or cheap. Do you have an acetylene torch?

     

     

    This is great info thanks. I will order some of the penetrating oil and see if that helps. I do have an acetylene torch.

    • Like 1
  4. 12 hours ago, Summershandy said:

    Not sure how close a '54 is but I ended up making that bracket. Quite easily actually. I also have an original bracket near the firewall where the pipe bends. The last bracket is at the tailpipe. All 3 in total. Hope you have better luck with fit then me. I got mine from Classic and had to have a muffler shop remake the piece off the manifold. The bend was bad enough it wouldn't clear the second hole in the frame. Thanks for sharing the posts. It's been a long winter up here and with no car shows the past 2 years makes one miss those days! 

     

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    Thanks for the pics summershandy. That helps to see. 
     

    I rolled the car out into the sunshine today. I’m glad to know I can actually get the car out of my garage. After I put the car in my third stall I got a truck container that I’m using for storage. It sits outside the garage door. I have the car in dollys and had to roll it into the other stall and out. Didn’t know for sure if it was going to work. 
     

    Moved the car outside to power wash the engine are and try to get some of the dirt and oil off before I paint the motor. Didn’t want to pressure wash in my garage. Came out great and managed to get the car back in. Hopefully next time it goes out of the garage it can be driven back in instead of pushed. 9DFB79B4-89C9-4428-99C2-BD749F57A924.jpeg.c38718d4f02f3da139c03ca40a43a74a.jpegAC5562E9-CA03-411B-A0EC-4A80BDD1B1F1.jpeg.abd3a0c07275a494dac687b884911dd9.jpegC2D793BC-C5E9-4144-B5B0-9FE18913715E.jpeg.88bdf2a7e7e6fc40c851e05caad092fc.jpegD9FA64EA-4950-428C-9580-053F61E70845.jpeg.c6532c663ebce7127f2b56dcb5e4d683.jpeg

    • Like 7
  5. On 4/6/2022 at 6:23 PM, NightTrain said:

    New prague area, down south, you?

     

    Those lines look like auxiliary oil filter system. My engine had an add-on aftermarket oil circulation filter that supplemented the oil pan filter system?

     

    where are they coming from?

    Thanks guys for clarifying what the lines are for. 
     

    I’m up in East Bethel. Maybe I’ll see you at some car shows at some point if I ever get my car back on the road. Pretty motivated after seeing yours.

  6. 7 hours ago, NightTrain said:

    Wow….I feel like this entire post is like deja vu for me!!  I started a 53 chieftain in Oct of 2019, and everything you have shared has been my journey!  So much to say, but I will start with this.  I too was concerned about my motor, bent valves, blown piston, etc. but all was close to spec and it runs great.  Here are a few pics. 
     

    ps: I am in MN too!!

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    Wow NightTrain that’s really motivating to see that you started with a similar situation. Great before and after pictures. Where in MN are you?

     

    I’ve been slowly making progress. Got all of the new valves put back in. Just need to adjust them now. 

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    does anyone know what this is with the two hoses going to it? I haven’t seen this on anyone else’s car. I need to check my manual but wondered if anyone had ideas. 
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    • Like 2
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