Weirdbeard

I was going to try manually holding the float down a little to see if I can regulate the fuel flow. It has a new needle and seat and float. I didn’t know the spring in the fuel pump was how it regulated the fuel. I’m still leaning towards to much fuel pressure as the float is maxed out all the way up. The gas then proceeds to fill the bowl submerging the float. This float is new and does not leak. The old one didn’t leak either but I figured it would be a good time to replace it anyways. I did the manual fuel fill with a clear tube and the needle seated everytime. Is it possible for the fuel pressure to be so high as to push past the needle even though it’s seated? I’m no carb professional at all but that’s what looks like is happening. If indeed that is the problem, is the solution a regulator, new fuel pump or a weaker spring for the fuel pump? When I ordered the rebuild kit from “Then and Now” I mentioned the problem I was having and they never offered a different spring as an option.

The strange part is that I drove the car for a couple weeks with no problems. The first fill up at the gas station and it immediately wouldn’t start. Coincidence? Not sure. I rebuilt the fuel pump as much as was physically possible with the kit. Screen, diaphragm and spring. After doing disassembling and doing some research, it seems that the fuel pump doesn’t control the fuel pressure at all. There’s no check valve or bypass of any kind. From what I’ve read the needle and seat control fuel pressure and flow. I’ve done the clear tubing with the bowl and the float stops as it should and seals with the needle. I honestly never thought to check for spark or compression. Seeing the fuel pour out of the carb. I figured it was a fuel issue. I can get it running by feathering the gas pedal as I hit the starter button. Runs really rough and stalls if I take my foot off the pedal. It does act as if it’s not running on all cylinders now that I’m thinking about it. Would that cause fuel to overflow the carb? Thanks for the tips! I’ll do more investigating and see what I find out.

Well I installed rebuilt carb and fuel pump. Issue is still there with no improvement. Can barely get it running and fuel pouring out carb bowl and back of carb by the linkage. Not quite sure what to do now.

I did order a kit from Then and Now. It came with 2 valves that are “out”. The “in” valve possibly pops out but I don’t have a replacement. The “out” valve looks to be non serviceable as there is no way to access it. I don’t believe it’s missing, I think it’s internal and cannot be replaced. I left a message for Then and Now just waiting for a reply.

Is there a way to replace the valves on the fuel pump cover? I don’t see any way to remove them since it’s a one piece cast aluminum. No screws to access anything.

Great video! When I get the carb back I’ll have to investigate more. My manual throttle cable is missing the clamp and screw on the bracket. I’d like to find one sometime just to make it “right”.

Ok. Dropped off the carb for rebuild. Hoping to rebuild the fuel pump next week since this weekend is way too busy. Wondering if I should look into replacing the automatic choke since that would be the last item directly involved with the fuel delivery.

Received the carb rebuild kit and also got a rebuild kit for the fuel pump. Now to find time to get them done!

The specs I found said for a 1953 engine said that the fuel pressure should be between 4 & 5.5psi. I’m right at 4.75psi. so I’d say it’s ok. I’ll order a carb rebuild kit Monday from The Carburetor Shop. I still don’t understand why the fuel filter was dry when I originally broke down but the sediment bowl was full. That’s why I was leaning towards the fuel pump malfunctioning. I guess it’s a mystery.

Thanks for the info.

Renting a fuel pressure test kit from Napa tomorrow so we’ll see what that says. Did make a surprising revelation about how original the car is after seeing the engine block date. I discovered that the engine is from a 1953 Plymouth and the head is from a 1955. So much for all original ha ha!

Pete in Pa has a more original car than mine. Working on a starting issue I glanced at the block and noticed a 53. What??? The block is out of a 1953 Plymouth and the head is from a 1955. Ha ha! The mysteries of an old car!

Not planning on doing much since it’s so original besides most of the wiring. The headlights work great as long as you don’t drive at night! Seriously. If I come across any parts you may need I’ll let you know. The tri state Mopar show we have was cancelled again this year so that was disappointing. Oh well. Take care.

Keep up the good work Pete in PA! I recently purchased a 1936 touring sedan that was stored from 1978-2016. Someone got it running and on the road. Looks 99% original. It did quit running on me but I started a thread and these guys are more than helpful! This is also my first “old” car as my others are 60’s and 70’s Mopars. I enjoy watching you and your son work on the car. He’ll have memories of this forever! Happy Father’s Day!

I set the fuel level with the float by using the funnel with clear tubing connected to the carb inlet. Set the fuel to 5/8” from the top lip of the bowl. The needle seated and didn’t leak past as far as I could tell. The gas in the clear line stopped flowing and held. Assembled everything and thought I’d try firing it up. It did start but still ran really rough like before. Within a minute the gas started flowing out the bowl vent again so I shut it down. I’ll order the rebuild kit and in the meantime get a pressure tester for the fuel line to check that it’s only getting 3lbs. Thanks for all the information!

Ok don’t hate me but now that I put my reading glasses on (getting old) maybe it’s just flush inside. So if that’s the case, should I just get the thinner washer as you suggested before? Sorry.

Ok. Could you sometime send a pic of the correct needle and seat? Thank you! The car sat in a garage from 1978-2016. I’m guessing things were changed at that time to get it back on the road.

Thanks. I’m sure I’ll need a rebuild kit since it’s all original.

My seat is just an inverted cone cast inside a brass fitting. Should there be a gasket? Should the tang be at a 90 degree angle to the float? And one last question. Umm what is FLAPS? Oh wait. You mean the gasket between the seat and bowl. Got it.

I agree with the fuel filter placement. And yes hchris I will try your method ha ha. I’m not ignoring your suggestion I just get focused on one thing and can’t get past it to the next idea. As soon as I find out the proper fuel level and am sure what position the tang on the float should be I’ll definitely try the funnel and clear tubing. I promise! Any good places to look for a quality needle and seat and might as well get a float for a spare.

Ok I finally got the float removed. I was hesitant because some past owner had the screw all torn up and I was worried about rounding the head off flat. I ground down a screwdriver to fit tight and slowly got it to turn. Sounds dry with no noise as I shake it. The tang is bent slightly. Should it be at a 90 degree to the float body? I really appreciate all your input! The last pics are the fuel level after everything settles after not trying to start it.

I’ll try and get the float out but I’m pretty sure it’s ok. The float is submerged in gas because the level is too high. The float physically cannot go any higher. I have to find out how high the gas level should be. If the float was bad, wouldn’t the gas level be lower and the carb starving for gas? I’m getting way too much gas and it’s flooding the carb. I thought the needle was stuck open but every time I check it’s ok. If the needle, seat and float are ok, how does the carb fill up with so much gas? It’s like the fuel pressure is overpowering the needle and float and filling up the bowl. Am I thinking this correctly? And this all started by filling with gas. Ran great until I filled up. I have a clear fuel filter installed ahead of the carb to catch any contaminants so even if the tank had any rust or crud the filter would have caught it. The filter is still clean. The problem is too much fuel delivery somehow. It’s baffling to me. Keep the suggestions coming because it gets my brain thinking we’re zeroing in on it!

Thanks I’ll have to try that.

The float feels good. It’s definitely floating right now. I’m not sure about the choke since I can’t keep it running. I know right now when I start cranking, the choke closes and pours a lot of gas (I think too much) down the carb. I believe the gas level in the bowl is too high and that’s why it’s coming out the breather cap on top when I manually get it running.

I’ve taken the needle out and checked the seat and float. Everything is really clean. I just noticed the fuel inside the bowl seems way too high. It’s partially covering the float. The float and needle look like they are new from the PO. Thanks for all the suggestions and help!