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Fredricksoncr

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  1. Sadly the belts at vbeltsupply are all too long
  2. @edinmass That would be amazing to have a conversation with you. I did on saturday take a long shot. I Bought as many studs as napa had (which turns out to be 11 out of 21) and replaced every nut. Then i reused the gasket after scrubbing the head, the block and the gasket with naphtha and then rubbing alcohol. I also lightly sanded both the block and the head to make sure no issues were there. Put the new studs in the block with locktite and let it sit most of the day. After i cleaned the block again and put it together. Im guessing i didnt either a) tighten the studs enough, or b) give the locktite enough time to set, as when i went to do the final torque 3 of the studs started to loosen. So my next step is going to be to take the head back off. order a new gasket, and try to ascertain why the studs started spinning. Worst case scenario would be to have to drill and sleeve the stud holes that are not tightening, and best case scenario is to take the studs out, clean the holes, put locktite on the studs, put them back in, crank them down, and let it sit for 24 hours. I also verified that the head was straight by doing the flash light and straight bar test (aka using a straight piece of metal, run it down over the head and block with a flash light behind it, if i see light its warped) The car would start easier after i did this but still wouldnt idle for more than a few seconds. So the leak must be getting smaller. Im also slightly concerned about one freeze plug in the block with has a very very slow drip leak when the car is running but that could be caused by the added pressure of the compression leak. The last thing i really need help with that i think will lower the temperature of the car is a new belt. The belt on the car is the original leather wrapped with canvas and while its working, i dont trust it to really tighten it up and spin the fan faster. Any ideas where i can get a belt? I called gates who originally made the belt and they were no help. None of the autoparts stores helped. The belt is 7/8 inch wide and 31 inches long.
  3. The car was in drivable condition before the head gasket let go. It is the original carb which i have been told is trouble. When i had the heads machined i had them magnafluxed as well. They came up clear with no cracks. I feel its really unlikely the block is cracked. Im going to pick up new studs today and nuts, then im going to strip the head with naphtha and then lacquer thinner to ensure there is nothing on. When i pressure check the drivers head it stays at a consistent 70psi for each cylinder My thoughts are the car didnt have all the original studs, and it seemed to leak the most by the aftermarket bolts. i think that if i had studs again that are new it would torque better and give me a better seal. Heres to nothing, ill update later today.
  4. I have not blocked off the tubes to the intake manifold yet. I was going to cut a piece of steal and slip it in place of the gasket for that. The freeze plugs are solid. The reason why the head gasket blew was the previous owner replaced the head gasket but didnt torque anything down. I could literally take off each nut with out any force. I have had a professional who has rebuilt a 328 motor look at the timing, points, plugs, and distributor and lined those up properly, sadly he left to go back home 6 states away and i cant call on his assistance. I know i need to rebuild my starter, and block the intake tube. I know the motor about 7 years (1000 miles) ago had all its bearings, seals, and other functions replaced by a professional machine shop. What i do know is the previous owner never used radiator fluid, let the car over heat once, and then tried to replace the head gasket on his own. He did not have the heads machined, or the torqued properly. I have had both heads machined, and before the passenger side blew after i replaced the drivers side the car was running fantastically, easily accelerating to 50-55 mph and climbing hills. When the passenger side went is when i decided to really dig in to everything. the only thing i really need to do is adjust the carb and so far i can only see one adjustment screw near the intake manifold. right next to the choke. For now im going to put a regulator on the fuel and get it to 1lbs to make sure it isnt flooding. I have cleaned the block and checked for rust. I also cleaned all the water jacket holes out. I then flushed the engine 3 times, ran evaporust through it for 2 weeks consistently running the motor to keep it circulating (the fluid came out black after those two weeks). When i said the gasket should stick, what i truly meant is the head shouldnt be sitting loose on the block, it should have some form of seal i assume. I havent torn the carb apart yet, but up until the compression leak the only issue the car had was the intake tubes and starter. She didnt smoke or have any exhaust issues. Doesnt leak oil. Starts easily, I will say when they set up the timing on the car they didnt not follow the mark on the fly wheel and that took the professional a while to figure out the correct timing. The needle and seat are factory. As for the challenge of the vehicle. I had a strong idea that this was not going to be an easy car, then again i have never taken the easy road. Greater the difficulty, greater the reward. I did locate exact replacement studs. Tomorrow i will be picking up all of them with new nuts as well. Im going to remove all the original studs on the off chance they have stretched and are no longer torqueing properly. I think my next biggest challenge will be adjustment of the carb, and fuel pressure.
  5. Ok all! @edinmass I got a block tester today and tested the radiator fluid. First i had both sides of the v8 running. block tester found exhaust in the fluid. So then i took all the plugs off the passenger side of the v8 from the distributor. Tested again. Mildly green (turns yellow from blue if exhaust is present) but that could be easily explained as residual from the first test. swapped sides and took the connection off the drivers side. Instant yellow. Massive exhaust leak and the car ran terribly. So I took the head off off the passenger side, first thing I noticed was the head slide off wayyyy to easily. No suction at all. Second thing I noticed was the gasket was loose in the studs. Again no seal. I then examined the head and saw the minor amount of copper spray i did only really stuck to the head and not the block. Also unburnt fuel in the cylinders (all 4), and radiator fluid under the gasket. Long story short, the gasket didn't stick. Now when I installed that gasket, i cleaned the head and had it machined. made sure the block was clean and nothing sticking up. Cleaned both with naphtha and ensured there was no finger prints or other contaminates. Applied a light coating of copper spray to the gasket. put the gasket on, put on the head and torqued. I was advised by Olsen gaskets to torque the head to 75lbs torque but the shop manual for the car says 55lbs as well as several other collectors who own this model car. I torqued to 65lbs. I was also told to torque in a clockwise pattern spiraling out from the center. Here's my question now. I have a big show on Sunday that is really important to my younger brother in law (getting in to the car collector scene for pre-war cars at 14). Can I scrub the head, clean the gasket and the block and try again? Secondly, I noticed that some of the studs are actually bolts where the old studs were removed. I checked the make sure the bolts weren't bottoming out, and that they were able to be torqued. Should i instead go to the hardware store, pick up some coarse thread 7/16 studs and nuts to replace them? Does it torque better not using a bolt? Should I replace all the studs on the off chance they have stretched? Should I use Loctite when putting the studs back in and let them sit to dry before putting the head back on? The original studs varied in length and had coarse thread on one side and fine on the other. Does it make a difference? Thank you all so much! also I'm looking in to the regulator now, and I'm going to try to find a vacuum tank in the near future and return it to original.
  6. Im all for eliminating the electric fuel pump and going original but the issue is finding all the parts needed.
  7. Im not exactly sure. Im not unfamiliar with engines and cars, but i will say this is my first pre-war so im not terribly knowledgeable. Where would i purchase a regulator? and what do you recommend. Actually i just realized. I met you at the fathers day car show at stan hwyet! small world! I live about 15 minutes from your business. My worry is have a compression leak still or the block it self might be warped. I had Michaels Auto parts and machine shop in northfield check the head and do the machining. They said it should be good.
  8. Good morning all! Im having a heck of a time with my Lasalle. I recently purchased it about a month or two ago, and I have been diligently working on it. I replaced the blown head gasket on the drivers side, everything was great, drove it to get tires put on, drove it back, and then it wouldnt stay running. So I decided to do the passenger side. I had the head milled and checked for cracks, i scrubbed and got every impurity off the block and head, i re-tooled all the threads on the studs. Replaced the broken or stretched studs with exact matching size bolts. I got a new gasket from olsen gaskets, lightly sprayed it with copper, put the gasket on, torqued to specs, starting light and increasing with each round. Followed the clockwise torque pattern. And she is still not wanting to stay started. If i keep my hand on the throttle ever so lightly she runs, she isnt miss firing, theres no compression escaping around the bolts (put oil around each bolt to look for tell tale leaks). Radiator isnt over heating and fluid isnt over pressurized so i dont think compression is leaking in to the radiator. I checked the points and cleaned them, i checked the rotor, and cap as well. I checked and replaced the fuel line. (this car was converted to an electric fuel pump before me). I verified fuel is going in, spark is there, and theres nothing blocking the air intake. Here are my symptoms. Car will start with out issue, but wont stay started unless i give it a little push on the gas. Slight unburnt fuel smell out the exhaust and occasionally fuel drips out the over flow at the bottom of the motor. Runs a little rough when trying to idle but has no issue when RPM is increased. Doesnt seem to have an issue with driving or acceleration (mind i have only driven it up and down the street, no long haul drive). Not really any smoke coming from exhaust nor is there any sweet smell indicative or antifreeze in the exhaust. Car is staying a steady 140-160 temp. Im at a loss. I have noticed a few people on here who are way smarter than I. any help will be appreciated. I have seen @edinmassposting alot about this stuff in the forums and seems extremely familiar with these vehicles. The car: 1929 Lasalle 328 Original 328 motor electric fuel pump.
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