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Surfbinder

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  1. Thanks Joe & Jon I worked with Rocket Racing & Performance in Waterford WI on the cam. I don't remember other than what my receipt says. Lunati Hyd Flat tappet, custom, ground on a 45 degree. Yes, original heads. I am not sure on the timing/vacuum questions. But I will find out. I will check into the testing (vacuum, ignition, compression, and A/F ratio). I have sent a message with all the feedback from this post to a couple of teams to try and get this diagnosed. thanks again, heading to cooler rides! David
  2. Thanks for taking the time to chat! So I have heard varying reasons for my heating issue. Having the inlet/out let on the same side, is really a matter of path of least resistance. The flow is pressure based, so in theory, the water has less of a chance going through the complete radiator, being (64) being on the same side. I heard from an old time mechanic that they would/could heat up, (not overheat) in traffic when new. If you are correct, true I don't really want to update all my new parts. I do have a new 3 core radiator. (I can have my new radiator modified to have the inlet/outlet modified to the other side, for a reasonable amount). Good Clutch fan. I did fit a 65 cutlass radiator shroud that a company is making, that didn't change anything. Timing advance is working as it should. I do have an electronic ignition. I have used only recreational fuel since the rebuild. But I didn't jet the carb for that fuel. I only drove the car about 20 miles before that, so I don't know if it had over heating issues. The Block/heads were boiled. It's bored to a 350 now. New internals, pistons, bearings, balanced, heads hardened seats, all new valve train, mild cam. Someone had just installed an Edelbrock intake & carb, which I reused. I do however have the exhaust manifolds that are bigger bore internally, maybe you have seen them (Thornton). I did just install a electronic pusher 14" fan on the radiator, that made a big difference. When driving it will maintain 180-185. Sometimes, sitting in traffic, up to 190, then goes back down when moving. I have only driven it a couple of time when it was below 75 degrees. The real test could be today at almost 90. I When I shut the car off, the temperature will then still rise just sitting there, it goes up to 210-220, I don't know if I can do anything about that, is this a problem? If you can help me figure it out that would be great. I have had it at 2 shops, both are engine builders and haven't had success in diagnosing the issue. I am happy to answer any questions that could help me along!
  3. ok, thanks very much for the reply. I have a newly reconditioned 330. I am hoping to have a better cooling system with the 65 set up. Currently, I have an issue with it getting close to overheating. As you already know, the inlet and out let are both on the drivers side. I am hoping the flow design will be much better having the flow be on opposite ends of the radiator, Top, drivers side, bottom passenger side, where it actually has to go through the whole radiator vs. the potential path of least resistance. Have you had or know of better cooling results, incorporating the 65 design?
  4. I see this is an older message. I also have a 64 Cutlass 330, that I am interested in changing my water pump and radiator to a 65 model, are there any other considerations?
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