Just_Some_Young_Kid

Well today was a very nice day, and the Buick was pretty much ready to go, so I put some water and gas in it and took it for a drive. It drove really well, didn't have any heat issues at all, and got lots of looks. I will say the transmission did slip once while pulling away from a stoplight that I was sitting at forever, I'm not sure if the oil was getting hot or something but it was only for a split second and it never happened again, it probably needs changed.

Thanks Joe, the 53 40 Series with Dynaflow is mine, all 27 ft. of hose. Luckily I got bulk heater hose in 5/8 in. but I think I got a 25 ft. roll, oh well. The hoses in there now are actually not too bad, but I want to replace them all eventually. And thanks Edwin, I'll consider it if I have trouble making an air cleaner.

I know they're not really made of gold, more likely made of unobtainium. I'm not sure if I would really want to go original when I can make a custom filter for much cheaper, like I'm making with my gaskets and such. Didn't they do something similar to this in these car's time? Hot rodders making custom parts, garage machine work, using tree branches to hang engines, just making things work. It makes you feel like you've accomplished something instead of going out to buy it... just my take on this project, even though I bought a new water pump 😕 Thank you anyway though, I appreciate it, and I'll let you know if I change my mind.

Yes it is. I wish I had it, but I'm sure it's long gone, and I know original ones are made of gold or something that makes them so expensive, lol.

Also another thing, does anyone have a good option for an air filter? Right now I'm just running a carb only with no filter, which I know isn't good for it, but I can't find a rubber coupling big enough for the carb and a matching air filter for it. Just wondering if anyone has been through this before.

Thanks Joe, I think I figured out where all the hoses go today. I spent most of the day working on it today. Replaced water pump with a new (rebuilt?) water pump from speedwaymotors.com, after ordering it I saw Bob's Automobilia had the exact same one for the same price, replaced some gaskets with homemade ones, Teflon sealed the bolts that go into the water jackets, flushed out the motor and hoses with water, and put it all back together. I don't want any chance of a water leak, one less thing to worry about. I also gave the cylinders another heavy dose of penetrating oil to help the rings, and saw the #1 piston in good shape, just a little dirty. Still not sure where the air is going since I can't get compressed air out there for a leakdown test, but as long as the piston and cylinder are fine then I'm good with 7 cylinders. I still have my old water pump, so if anyone has any ideas on what to do with it then be my guest. I'll probably keep it forever unless someone else wants it to rebuild it.

Well the borescope camera doesn't even work, and I was too lazy to get a big wrench and turn the engine over by hand, so I guess it'll have to wait. Meanwhile I think I'll order a water pump and keep my old one, and also see about getting my radiator recored. There's a lot of water lines and they all look the same, does anyone know a good way to label them all for the time being? I just have them labeled as "water pump upper hose", "trans return", etc., I'd just like to know where all of them actually go.

I'll definitely try that, and I'll also bring home the borescope camera this weekend

Hopefully it's something like that, I've only driven it for about 50 or 60 miles so far, so we'll see once I start driving it more. I know it's bad because when I took all the new spark plugs out to check how it was running, #1 still looked brand new, means it didn't even fire once on that cylinder. That's always good..

I haven't even washed it yet, I know I should but I'm afraid of how much paint is going to flake off if I do. I can't speak for the majority of aftermarket parts for this year, but I haven't had that much trouble finding basic maintenance items. O'Reilly's had an exact fit brake switch sitting on the shelf for 5 bucks, but then again it's probably a common classic car part. About the valves, when I went through the oiling system for the valvetrain all the valves looked to be going up and down without a problem, that's why I thought it was a bent valve. I've had it running with the valve cover off and didn't see anything hanging up. I'm not sure if I can do a leakdown test in the cars current location, I can't get compressed air back there and don't have an extension cord long enough to run the compressor, as if I would run an air compressor on an extension cord. It runs good enough on 7 cylinders that when I get it driving again I'll take it to work and do a leakdown, I'll let you guys know what's up with it. For now I'll just soak the cylinders with some PB.

I'm no stranger to leakdown tests, been working on cars for a while, I just haven't got that far on this one. I know if I did it then I would get a good idea of what to repair. I haven't dropped the oil pan yet, mainly because it looks like a pretty dirty job with a lot in the way, plus I would need to scrape off all the old gasket material while laying underneath it. Been there, not fun. The engine doesn't knock or do anything funny so I'd be more inclined to leave the bearings alone for now. I got pretty lucky with mine actually running and driving, your situation sounds pretty unfortunate, sorry!

Thank you Edwin, I get a lot of compliments and people talking to me about it. I did the old style compression test with my finger over the open spark plug hole, all other cylinders feel really good on compression until you get to #1, not even a puff of air, so it's got to be going somewhere other than down the cylinder wall through a broken ring. I'm thinking it's something like a bent valve. The smoke is definitely blue from blowby, coming from the oil filler and crank vent. I've sprayed PB Blaster down all the spark plug holes, but I think I'll do it again either with PB or ATF, load it up and let it sit for a while. Even if I could get all the cylinders firing even, it would probably still need some engine work judging by how much oil and grease is caked on the sides, also judging by the age.

Not much space for pictures, have to do it in multiple posts

Thank you guys for the help. I'll check out Bob's Automobilia, and on second thought, sending out the water pump might be a bit of a gamble, like for example if the impeller shaft is bent or if the impeller breaks, but I'll consider my options Recoring the radiator is a good idea, it's just so expensive haha. I never had an overheating issue so we'll see. Another thing on the list is replace every rubber coolant hose, I'm surprised most of them aren't crumbling apart though. I really want to get it in good running and driving condition this year, and make good use of the tires I got for it. Here's some more pictures.

Hello, Kevin here. Some of you might remember me and my car from a topic I made a while ago about my first classic car and fixing it up. Last year I fixed it up just enough to drive it to the Springfield IL Route 66 car show. After the show, I drove it to my house, and there it's sat since then. Same thing with my topic, unfortunately. Sorry I haven't given an update, I wasn't working on the car and sort of forgot about the forum. I missed this forum and all the knowledge everyone has to share, and how friendly everyone is. I'll put a list of everything I've done with the car so far, if anyone's interested. This last Sunday I decided to start working on it again since its finally warming up here. I figured I'd investigate a water leak I noticed last year, and found out that my water pump is leaking from its weep hole. This usually means water pump replacement, unless anyone has a cheaper or better solution. Speedway Motors sells a new cast iron water pump for 50-52 straight 8's but it looks the exact same as mine. It costs 170 big ones. Second issue of mine is my radiator core support. On the very bottom, one side looks like its been hit, while the other side looks like it was used as a tow point with a hook. Its all crooked, and it causes my radiator to warp if tightened down all the way. I'm wondering if finding a replacement is as simple as calling a few junkyards and see if they have anything to match mine, I don't think there's any bending it back. Third issue, all smokers windows on all 4 doors leak water around the seals. Not a huge issue, but I would like to not see daylight through them. Is this something a professional has to repair or is it easier than I think? I appreciate any suggestions. Last current issue, my radiator as a ton of pinholes, but doesn't really spray out anywhere. It looks to be an original "Harrison" radiator with the correct Dynaflow coolant return line. Local radiator shop estimates $500 to recore the radiator, but they also said to try copper seal to help the leaks since they're so small. Just wondering if there are any solutions like aftermarket radiators that fit somewhat decent. I missed working on the car and I miss driving it. She rides smoother than any car I've driven, a little loud but that's okay. Here's a list of everything I've done so far. Changed oil, spark plugs, and tires. Repacked front and rear wheel bearings. Replaced left rear brake backing plate with a Roadmaster one from a junkyard, stud holes on mine were wallered out from not being tight. Disassembled and inspected rear end gears and reassembled with fresh gear oil, everything looked great. Rebuilt original brake master cylinder, works pretty good. Ran all new nycopp brake lines, replaced all rubber lines, wheel cylinders, shoes, and hardware. Removed, disassembled and cleaned top end lifter assembly. Inspected hydraulic lifters, pushrods, rockers, rocker shaft and pedestals, lifters looked great but spent half a day cleaning every single oil hole in the rockers and rocker shaft, no more clatter! Replaced valve cover and lifter cover gasket with cutouts I made from thick gasket material roll. No more cork! Everything that I know needs done. Engine needs gone through. Dead miss in #1 cylinder, no compression whatsoever. Probably needs new piston rings and cylinders honed since she smokes like a chimney. Fuel tank needs cleaned out, I made the expert decision to fill it with gas before cleaning it out so now mouse and wasp nests clog the fuel line every 5 minutes. Needs new plug wires since every one is different and none of them really fit the plugs, I'm just too lazy to take the time and actually make the wires with the kit I have. Big rust on the front floor boards needs repaired. If you made it this far, Congratulations! Here's a cookie 🍪

I knew I wasn't crazy. I think they'll be a little hard going back on but I'm just going to leave them, there's no way for them to come out when everything's together Kev..

Thanks Aaron and Bloo, I didn't think they were supposed to be like that as there isn't really a need, they fit in that recess in the spider gear. That just tells me either they did it that way from the factory, or someone's been here before me (much more likely). I'll clean out the bearings and grease them good. The seals look okay, not much leakage from what I can tell. If I do need to replace them, I know now that it isn't hard to take apart the rear end. Thanks, Kev

Well, I finally got around to doing what I wanted to do on the Buick. I was pretty busy last weekend but today I was free to do this. Both bearings look nice, everything seems to be in good shape. The oil was a bit goopy and black though and I got my hands pretty dirty. This is as far as I got before it started heavy raining and I had to put the cover back on her. The only thing is the axle retaining clips were stuck on, like the ends were pinched over the axle. I'll try to achieve that again when I put them back in. Turns out the whole problem to the wallowed out backing plate holes was one stud that doesn't want to stay put. I figure I can just put a ground down bolt in there and it would be good, since the axle itself is worn down a bit where the flat spot on the stud is supposed to go. Other side backing plate is perfect, despite the lack of brakes on it. Kev

Very sorry I haven't given any updates to the project, but only because there hasn't been much. I've turned the one drum so it's nice and smooth now, found some rear brake backing plates, and got all the fittings loose on the brake switch/line junction thingy. I still need to remove the master cylinder to rebuild it, I just can't seem to unscrew the pushrod for it on the front. It's the only thing stopping me. Inside the reservoir isn't bad actually, just a bit of surface rust. Tomorrow I plan to take the axle out and replace that backing plate as well as get everything for the rear brake sorted. I also plan to replace all the hard lines with nicopp lines, hoping I can reuse at least some fittings. Already have the wheel cylinders, flexible hoses, shoes, all that, although I might not even need shoes. I'll take some pictures of what I find tomorrow Kev..

So. Next on the agenda is figure out how to pull the left rear axle so I can change the backing plate, since its wallowed out on the studs and causing it to move around. The left rear shock is also disconnected. I'm sure I can just look it up in the manual, but is there any special tools I need or special tips for taking apart that rear diff? I just need to have one side out. In the meantime, I'm going to look for a backing plate and see if I can assemble the other side's brakes. Kev

Update! I just remembered there was a full drum brake kit in the trunk and I wasn't sure what it went to, now I know! Looks to be fairly "new" hardware. Also, a radio static eliminator. I would have never thought, thanks!

Y'all are too much. I checked out the brake system today, I have some good news and bad news. Good news is the right front is completely fine and probably usable, except for the lines and wheel cylinder. I'd be completely fine with using everything here. Also the wheel bearings are good with that vintage American grease. Bad news, the right rear is completely gone. Left rear has wallowed out holes for the backing plate but everything is there. Haven't taken apart left front yet but it is hard to turn like the brakes are hung up. I can get away with only turning the right rear drum, but I still need ALL hardware for it. There's also this piece behind the grease cap that looks kinda mangled. I'm sure it's some type of nut retainer, but can I go without it? I've seen other wheel bearings without this piece and no problems. Thanks, Kev

Thanks Keith, I plan to go ethanol resistant anyway, but there are some ethanol free gas stations around here I'll try and go to. Also, i know there are a lot of video tutorials online, maybe I can use some of them. As for the insulation I plan to replace most of it anyway, I believe its getting wet from a window leak and causing rust on the floor pans. Rodney, I plan to work on it this weekend, and at least tear into the brakes. I plan to drive it not every day but maybe every other, I don't want to be too hard on her. I'll be taking pictures of what I find this weekend, thanks! Kev

Thank you Craig, I'll definitely call in the future, since I probably need about all of that. JBP, that looks exactly like what I'm dealing with here, thank you for the research. There's a lot of options I could go with, I think I'll try 60FlatTop's suggestion since it sounds the easiest, if it doesn't work then I'll make a proper hose with fittings.

That's a great idea! I think that's what I'll do, thanks a lot! Thanks for the ethanol resistant hose recommendations, the thing is I thought I needed a flexible hose that looks exactly like what's on there. It actually looks like brake hose, so I thought I needed something similar, but the flare trick is great. I'll probably just steal some hose from the shop anyway, lol.