prewarnut

I think the answer can be found on the graph.....😁

My mom did too! 🙃

Our house has a lot of copper and I added copper flashing to the tops of our shutters 7 years ago to protect the exposed tenons. I used (apparently) copper plated nails at a big box store driven into thick copper flashing I bought and bent up. On inspection last year the copper is intact but somehow some corrosion on the nails are evident now. As per this source, the copper usually remains protected but not the steel: https://copper.org/applications/plumbing/techcorner/pdf/galvanic_corrosion.pdf

Ouch, I was going to say it would be easy to remove the dome and then cut for a 4th ring. If this company makes the pistons instead of just sourcing them, on a new order could they make the wrist pin area higher and undrilled allowing you to have a local machine shop do the final drilling and alignment of such?

I've seen someone acid-etch these for a different project on-line, somewhat like making IC circuit boards. PM and I'll see if I can find the link if you want.

I did not see the lubrication chart but hope to get back to the library in another 4-5 months. I was a little side-tracked, unanticipated, into the Riker documents which are separate from the Locomobile archive. I would think a better copy of this exists. Frank may also know. Now that I have a better understanding of how the archives are organized I can probably have a better shot at finding things for people. Stay tuned.

I've mentioned this before on here, this is not a hard one (you just need to know where to look). If you can't find an original - such as above- you might want to consider contacting a clock/watch supplier, a barometer supplier and/or an independent glass producer. These can be sourced or remade. 30 minutes with an online search will probably yield you a number of options. Hopefully these tips broaden peoples' thinking (outside the box).

It's an established definition if you look at various online dictionaries with the emphasis that the war referred to is WWII. Other than the reference for the changes in automobiles other changes in life occurred and there was no going back, hence my nostalgia and interest and my on-line handle despite being born quite a bit later. Given that the war was ~6 years long with a number of years of reconstruction later there were a number of changes outside automobile design/production. As examples (I know people are going to find counter points: "but that was invented before the war." these are general changes at about that time) we (mostly in the U.S. mind you) went from wearing pocket watches to wrist watches, electronics went from vacuum tubes to ICs, streetcars to buses, small roads to highways, plastered rooms to gypsum wall board, hand washing to home electric washers/driers, city living to suburban living, city shopping to shopping malls, propeller to jet aviation, (slightly later we went from coal powered steam locomotives to diesel/electric trains), local produce to more larger scale agriculture and production/distribution/growth hormone/pasteurization/preservative-laden food. I could go on but just prior to mid-century a significant substantial change in living (for many) occurred.

One concept to understand is that the processes available now allow you to reproduce a part - when you don't even have it in the hand! By that I mean there is now software that can register a 3-D model (e.g. bas-relief of the acorn leaves on the motometer's front face, or an escutcheon or dash plate) just from a good JPG or like photo. There quite a bit of "clean-up needed" so this isn't like a Polaroid on-shot deal where you press a button and a part is made but it is getting there. I haven't tried this yet but there are examples on line of this process from some commercial companies. It can involve 3-D laser cutting but I imagine 3-D printing could be alternately tried with this. An important issue is that one still needs some basic dimensions to scale it with if one doesn't have access to the part.

His Mercedes 600 sold a little shy of $300K in 2020 but that's a 600...(interestingly Roy Orbison's sold for $100K more).

Niet, Nien, Nada.....Their current offerings are dual clutch automated transmissions - a step beyond the initial F1 set up.

One thing to keep in mind is that if one is using one of these CAD programs it is important to know the type of file it will produce (if one is then submitting to a commercial operation to fabricate outside of making a plastic 3-D printed object at home which is to be submitted for lost wax, etc). I spent hours on one project only to find I would have to start over again on different software as the company needed it in a different format. Recently, I have used NanoCAD for 2-D renderings (laser cutting of sheet/plate, openings, filigree) and have had commercial laser cutting done for me but the program will do 3-D as well. It is free to download up to version 5. It is now up to version 21 or so but the early version is still just as good and can allow a newcomer to attempt this before deciding to pay the outlay or cost of software for a later version.

It's nice no one felt compelled to paint some crazy contrasting color to the wood spokes...you know, like bright yellow, red, orange, neon green. I could go on....

Here is another caned one up for auction soon by RM Sotheby's. I like the caning in natural colors though. A P1 rebodied by Inskip in 1937 after he purchased the proceeds of Springfield.

Ed (and others), as example, or perhaps as a counter example, if we just look at one part like the V12's heads, how would one go about restoring those? What I mean is regarding the pitting. On the fenders which look solid, but are pitted, I know they can be ground down, primed and would then get a skim coat of filler. How can the heads tolerate that with the temps involved? Would a restorer have to repaint them and accept the pitted surface under fresh paint, attempt to grind the surface between the bolt tabs, or just not use them? This is an important thought exercise given the amount of surface rust on this one.

Piston on the front seat is never a good sign... All kidding aside, ignoring the obvious pitfalls whether it be rebuilding the V12, rewooding, chrome bill....my question is, is there now any place where one can buy the correct interior textiles for this?

I've used those self-tapping inserts for a prior wood-working project and they are fantastic. They bite and stay well. You can then crank down with a metal threaded bolt and really tighten the crap out of them. I assume you are coming up from underneath? At any rate I guess you might be going with plan A...

How are the walnut strips attached if I may ask? Glue?

Hi, if I may chime in....I respectfully disagree with the prior comment. First, before oiling anything assess the contacts as you are doing. This is an electrically actuated rewind clock. It basically trips every 45 seconds, or 2 minutes or 5 minutes, etc depending on design. I haven't worked on this but have worked on similar Poole and Self Winding Clock Co. movements. All it takes is one failed rewind and the clock stops. So it is first important to see if it trips correctly both via the electrical contact being clean and also the lever arrangement that actually does the tripping. I don't know the design of this but do know the pendulum clock design (not applicable here). Next, is the clock actually wound already? Use a fine blade and lightly apply pressure to the larger central gear to see if it seems to be under pressure in one direction. If so then the works may be gummed up down the line and need cleaning. However, just oiling doesn't relieve the gummed and dirty pivots of their new found friction - it helps to circulate such and only lead to scoring in the future. It might get it working now but it will be doomed to stop in a few months or years. Lastly on clocks and watches the teeth are never oiled. Yes on WWII era radio equipment the teeth of numerous moving gears for variable capacitors were oiled but not in this application. If it's not an easy fix it will really need to be stripped down, cleaned, properly lubed with appropriate clock (and watch oil at the balance) and reassembled and timed. I believe with this arrangement no fundamental work is needed from the front side/setting/hand assembly.

I'll have to scour the newspapers of the era to see if anything was written of his daughter. The photos are very small (about 2 1/4" x 3 1/2" or so). The scanned one might have a slight haze to the right side from the overhead lighting glare I couldn't avoid but I'm afraid the photos were taken from a distance with an early camera and who knows if it was even a Brownie. Anyhow, I can confirm his daughter's name was Charlotte and this photo was on the same page of the album. Again, a sporty car for a woman at the time.

Al, Hi, no I did not see information on those years during my 3-4 hours this time. I hope to continue the tour and complete a review of the collection eventually - it will have to wait a few months. I am not certain how late the archives detail but I suspect probably not too much will be present post the Hare's and Durant takeovers since much was kept and donated by the Riker family and not the factory "proper". Ideally the final liquidation via Durant would have had a mechanism to save or curate blueprints and ephemera but it is not clear that really happened. I also found a "lead" that some documents may have gone to a museum in RI but that too would have been Riker's property and preceded the years you mention. I'd like to sort that out too.

Ed, was rear fender welting usually done like that (it looks to be exposed leather material matching the upholstery)? - Dan.

Lest one think that the annual Book of Locomobile was haphazardly put together the BHC has scraps of drawings including the decorative filigrees and decorations, pasted to the edge of sheets for proofing. I didn't photo that however this annotated preface is interesting to look at.

These chiefly are publicity proofs for advertising. There is correspondence on this: