prewarnut

It seems like this discussion comes up every few months. As noted it all depends on the state the car will be registered next. The fine print matters. With CT as example, cars older than 20 years aren't provided title at DMV...except per state statute a new title will be created if the customer so demands and pays for it. So if eventually it is to be sold out of state this could be done for a future customer/transaction is deemed helpful. Also if a car is sold within CT to a new in-state owner whereby the current title is lost, a replacement is not necessarily needed if the prior title is still valid, without lien, and as noted the car is re-registered in the state - this is stipulated on the website. Also if a car is brought into state from a non-titled locale a supplemental form substantiating ownership is filled out and submitted to DMV (obviously the state recognizes if it is not routinely titling older cars then the reciprocal issue occurs). Other states may not be so accommodating in these ways though. Thus in these specific examples not having title is not a dead end.

I'll probably bomb this one. A Brewster body with upside down-mounted handle (swapped L-R) on a Rolls PII?

1939 Mercedes-Benz 770K (I could be off a few years).

1959 Mercedes-Benz 220s coupe (I know my rosewood!)

1938 BMW 328 (+/- a year)

For you guys with MBs, Porsche makes a classic-styled radio with two knobs and 3.5 inch touch screen for clients with older 911s. It has nav, bluetooth, Sirius radio, and Apple Carplay compatibility in a single DIN package. Too bad MB doesn't offer this (from what I think I know). Porsche wants $1100 so not cheap but it wouldn't be hard to wipe off the small Porsche text at the top of the unit.....I don't have a pic but just search for Porsche classic radio. It's at least German high quality plastic....

I think it is a Fred Flintstone car as it clearly has no brakes!

I do the same. When I have to replace I usually go up slightly on the Ahr. Just went from 2.0 to 2.5 Ahr on my B&D trimmer and can feel a little more torque; purchased on Amazon. Obviously one doesn't want to exceed design limits and burn out motors. I can't speak for Dewalt as my brand is Milwaukee. My only Dewalt was my grandfather's radial arm saw. Like the Buick commercial, "this isn't your father's......"

Ron, you could try leather dye. Not everyone knows that modern water-based leather dye is really a flexible paint. It is impervious to fluids which makes me laugh when people buy/sell leather conditioner as it is not penetrating compared to leather prepared from the '90s and earlier. As I've said on a number of threads I've used Leatherique products for redye jobs. They can custom make a color and for $30 you could give it a try. It can be wiped on, painted or airbrushed. When I airbrushed I noted I needed pretty good pressure but forget the psi. I would say this will definitely work for a static display and look "appropriate." It has just the right sheen - mostly matte with just a hint of shine. Will it hold up with rotating tires, not crack, etc? I'm not sure. Just put some on a spare vehicle's tire (potentially someone you dislike)...😁 - Dan.

I use Wolf's Chemicals. It used to be sold out of Canada or FL but I find it on Ebay from the Netherlands. There's others.

Because brass is an alloy strong acids can attack it. As example and cosmetically, the brass can turn pink due to dissolving the surface zinc ions. A color change may or may not concern you. Again professional platers will usually use an alkali solution to both prevent that and better remove surface oils and act as a surfactant. However the key you are asking is what will chemically remove tarnish without excessively bothering the substrate. This may not be an easy answer and might require some research on technical safety data sheets. There are also professional forums out there which probably discuss this sort of thing. I think however that physical verdigris usually needs some sort of mechanical removal even if by ultrasound.

You could try electrocleaning, the first step prior to plating but you'd need a plating set-up and of course, the alkali for this. Some companies will sell individual components for plating and not the whole set thus saving money.

There's two levels to consider. I use a nanoparticle sealant that is wiped on and then wiped off (on my modern cars). It lasts 6-8 months - far better than my best wax. It doesn't have a residue (i.e. no cleaning of emblems, trim, etc). What I use is made in Hungary and can't be easily purchased here but there are a few things on the market. Then there is the ceramic coating. That is generally professionally applied. it should last a year or more and provides a more tangible layer over the paint. This is what helps some cars to look like they are dipped in gloss, if you will. Both need good paint, ideally polished so no major orange peal. However this doesn't always look right on older cars never painted and polished this way. Also many modern cars don't "respond well" because you start to see all the imperfections near stampings like the gas filler flap, doors, emblems, complex creases the designer penned but didn't execute well.... Despite their high prices I've seen polishing and too high a gloss coating bring out imperfections on my Porsches and BMWs. I've seen this problem on Maserati, definitely GM products, Volvo....If you have a RR, Ferrari, Bentley you're all set. MB is up the middle these days. There's a ton to read about. I'd say no harm in the wipe on products. The sealants are DIY so you can simply try if you want. The ceramic coating can only be reversed by polishing off. Overall, the higher level of polishing and then going all the way to ceramic coating is where you can get reflections "hovering" over the layer of paint. It's hard to describe but if you see it in person with a discerning eye then you'll understand. I just about attain that with polishing and sealant so I stop there...

Well said! Although the proper restoration of any English motorcar requires investing in the correct materials and workforce too. 😁

That looks like leather. Using Leatherique's Pristine Clean and Rejuvinator might help. The Rejuvinator is an oil and if this dry as in your picture it will likely soak it up well and help to soften.

Thanks! I reads the technical brochure and it looks like it is marketed even for vehicle chassis use. I wonder do you (or anyone) have a comment one whether this would be an ideal use for a prewar chassis application, over, say the POR-15 products people use? An advantage could be the one-step application, no mixing and high gloss finish (if that was to be desired) but not sure if the rust protection is as good.

My pinhole camera:

The wear of dye in the side bolster without destruction of the underlying material makes me think this is not leather but MB Tex. Also supporting this are the crease lines in the seat bottoms that seem superficial and lack of creasing or cracking of the somewhat flattened center pleats. If so it will outlast you. Obviously getting an experienced "eye" on this would be helpful. I have used Leatherique products for cleaning and redying of leather. I differ with their suggestion to completely strip before new dye is applied. I'd first try some spot re-dying (if that is on your mind) as the older/original oil-based dye is much more durable than the new water-based, also imparts the familiar "smell" of German car products of the era, and additionally the removal is just a huge endeavor for small reward over dying over the old in small areas. Being black this can be matched easily and the interior will come out nice. If this is MB tex then the cleaner of choice is probably not too important given the durability of the material. As with all things of new territory go slow and plan.

Bonhams has this Springfield Ghost up for auction in about 2 weeks, brought back to the UK presently.

I remember as well. Enjoy!

I haven't seen any contemporary ads for used Locomobiles beyond the 1929 model year in numerous papers online. I wonder if the '30 is a body swap of sorts but not sure. This notice below poses the absolute outer limit when the factory, as a car company, was sold for a final time on 2/2/32. Shortly thereafter a public business event was held there suggesting it was cleared out for show space. Beyond that the history of the building is known. I'll be back this summer and can look through the historical files again and see if documentation shows when production exactly wound down.

With the demise of a few of the large scale chrome platers I would actually think smaller scale nickel plating (decorative plate) has a role to look into. It could satisfy the need for refinishing older speedometer and gauge bezels, hinges, escutcheons, window crank levers, external mirrors, bolts and clamps on wheel felloes, lock covers and lock heads, gas caps, etc. The utility of nickel plating is that it can go right onto a number of substances without an initial plating of a different metal. It is not very caustic as the kit I use utilizes boric acid which is a weak acid and used prevalently. Also the solution is cheap. The downside is that it takes a little while to get a thick plate, it requires a few anodes spread around the item, it requires air agitation, and ideally some heating. Someone could at least come up with their own "set-up" with specifications on the maximum size of item they could accommodate. Additionally if a closer to chrome appearance is needed I would think one could plate palliadium over this (although I have not tried that). Food for thought you entrepreneurs!

They no longer park cars along that section of the fairway....

That was the Hilton Head Concours. They needed 3 sets of experts to retrieve: a tow company, divers, and gator experts.

I had looked at someone's schematic explanation on-line with narration and it seemed there were more (maybe on the condensing cars?) In essence I somewhat wonder how one knows what the pressure is within all the lines? Or is the water automatic working correctly? I suppose the steam automatic can be figured out when/if the burner goes out. In essence if one wanted to get one up and running (with or without disassembly of each component) how are they tested? Probably no easy short answer and I imagine a Stanley technical service manual in period or afterwards would be consulted...