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Adam72

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Posts posted by Adam72

  1. Just an update to you all. I had an auto electrician take a look for me and the issue was the contact in the end of the magneto. The contact had moved and when the key was turned to off wasn’t shorting out the magneto to cut the engine off. He stent 10 minutes and had it all fixed for me. Thanks for all the advice and what to look for. Very much appreciated

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  2. On 6/6/2023 at 1:18 PM, cutdown said:

    Adam 72. You have not mentioned whether you have points ign or magneto.  

     

    iF YOU HAVE A MAGNETTO , READ ON.  iF NOT, DONT LOOK ANY FURTHER.

     

    My switch did not appear to be operating correctly so I took it apart. It inly had 2 springs in it where there should have been 3. [ Because I didn't have a key, and  In order to test the switch I made a key blank out of a sheet of galvanized iron, ] I ended up converting that into 2 keys., I had lost any form of key I.D. so I set about resetting the toggles/tumblers and making 2 keys to fit.  One of the keys had a spigot at the end from when I first made the blank. That switch worked well, and the other didn't turn the mag off, [ IE short out to earth ]. I took the switch apart again and worked out that there should have been another spring in the centre to act as the earthing contact. After reassembling, my switch worked perfectly.

     

    When the key is rotated to the anticlockwise position, it is in the running position, and the toggle/tumblers stop the key falling out.  When turned clockwise, it shuts the engine down because it has earthed out the coil. Like the carb on these engines, it is virtually bullet proof until some numb-scull has a fiddle.

     

    Hope this helps.

    Magneto and thanks for the information

  3. On 6/4/2023 at 9:57 PM, Minibago said:

    The switch disconnects to nothing internally when turned to the on position allowing the Magneto to generate spark on rotation.

    The switch connects to the ground wire, to earth the magneto to short out the spark and stop the motor.

    If the motor keeps running then perhaps the ground wire from the magneto to the ignition switch is broken, please check this wire’s continuity as a first step.

    Thanks Nige. I will double check that when I have recovered from my surgery 🙂

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  4. On 5/15/2023 at 2:50 PM, TonyAus said:

    The answer is found by reading on in the handbook.  Four types of switch were used: Three and four point for coil ignition and three and four point for magneto.  The coil ignition switches connect and disconnect power to the coil from the ammeter. The magneto switches, as previously indicated, just ground out the magneto in the off position.

    Returning to the original problem I think that it's a matter of derangement within the switch.  Carefully bend the tabs holding the back of the switch and remove the innards. Check that the key barrel is moving the contacts correctly between the coil and ammeter terminals.

    One problem I found with these switches is that the original wire terminals were relatively thick.  If you use modern thinner terminals with or without the original spring washers the terminal screws can protrude too far into the switch and cause electrical mayhem.

    Thank you. I now have a problem where the car will start but when I turn the key to off nothing happens and the engine keeps running. I have to turn off the vacuum tank to run the engine out of fuel. It’s such a simple switch I can’t work out why it won’t kill the engine. All wires are corrected to the correct rerminals

  5. Good Evening fellow Dodge owners. I have a question. The ignition switch on my 1920 Dodge Brothers works in reverse (off is for starting and on is for turning it off) it’s a pain as when the car is running and driving the ignition key falls out onto the floor. When you turn the engine off the key can’t be removed as it’s in the on position. I hope that all makes sense. I’ve checked the wiring and it all seems in the correct spot. What should I look for to fix this issue.

    thanks in advance

    Adam

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