ToxicRyno
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Posts posted by ToxicRyno
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5 hours ago, Ronnie said:
Sometimes removing the gas cap from the tank and listening in the filler pipe will help you determine if the fuel pump is running.
At about 200 degrees the fuel pump seems to still be running (this is without taking the car out and just letting it sit) and the rpms are at abou 725-775. When I first started it it was around 1200 rpms. And worked it’s way down as heating up
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15 hours ago, 2seater said:
The prime connection can be used for testing purposes and perhaps a short drive. The fuel pump runs continuously when the engine is running in any case, but in case of emergency, such as an accident, the pump will keep running even if the engine is not, so it is not a permanent solution. With the gauge attached to the fuel rail, with the engine running, and without the fuel pump hotwired, what does the fuel pressure look like? It should be over 40 psi with the pump running and the engine off (actual spec is 43.5psi), and it should reduce to the mid 30's psi with the engine running. Blipping the throttle should instantly show an increase in fuel pressure and then back down at idle speed. There are three paths for the fuel pump to get power; through the relay on the firewall, through the oil pressure switch inside the sender and through the test connection. It should be pretty straightforward to determine if the fuel pump is at fault or one or more of the control systems?
When hot wired it is at about 43. When the engine is running its at about 35. When giving gas it will increase a few psi but not over 40, but that is also me not flooring it (live close to neighbors that complain a lot)
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5 hours ago, Ronnie said:
Sometimes removing the gas cap from the tank and listening in the filler pipe will help you determine if the fuel pump is running.
One the car was started it was running. I am gonna let it warm up a bit and see if it stays running
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Just now, 2seater said:
I don't want to jump into the middle of sorting out the fuel pump relay but related to that, did you try starting and running the engine with the fuel pump hotwired through the test connector? It will not do any harm and may help track down the running poorly due to fuel or spark, or maybe both.
I had started the car with after doing the fuel pump prime connector, and I then also tried to create a connection while the car was running, but I don’t think there was one, however there was a wining noise which sounded like the fuel pump once the car was running, (was from back of car and sounded like it was from the tank) but I am not 100% sure. I also did not leave in running long at all. Maybe a couple of minutes. I was thinking about creating a stable connection with the wire and trying to drive around with the fuel pump connected like that but wasn’t sure if that was a good idea or not.
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9 hours ago, Ronnie said:
Your tests prove your pump is capable of performing as it should. That's good news. The problem seems to be with the relay not supplying power to the pump.
Are you certain you changed the correct relay? The connector for the fuel pump relay (one of the three relays on the firewall) should have four wires with the colors as shown in the diagram below,
I am pretty sure it is the correct one, however it looks like the socket may have been changed in the pass, there is electrical tape over where it looks like a new connection was made from the original wires.
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27 minutes ago, Ronnie said:
Did you get this same result of no voltage reading after replacing the fuel pump relay? Keep in mind that the pump doesn't run continuously without the engine running. There will only be voltage on the prime wire for a few seconds each time you turn the key to the run position without starting the engine. The fuel pressure should go up to about 40 psi hold there for at least 10 seconds after you turn the key to run if the pump is in good condition.
Yes. Same results, and I had someone turn the key while checking the prime wire, and it there was no change. When I supplied 12 volts to the relay for 10 seconds it was about 40 and held. It just doesn’t seem to be kicking on from the key.
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10 hours ago, 2seater said:
What was found later while investigating was the fuel pump had been replaced at some point but the hose used to replace the factory pulsator did not have clamps installed. The hose fit loosely and allowed the pressure to partially leak away causing all the issues.
So I would have to drop the tank just to check that wouldn’t I..
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1 hour ago, Ronnie said:
Did you do all the tests? If so what pressures did you get.
Sorry, I guess I had miss read some things, I had only tested the fuel pump primer with the 12volts and it had kicked in.(So I guess the load test) which had read around 42-45 each time. I went back and tested the primer with a multimeter and to the negative terminal of the battery and got no readings. However every now again while testing the key and messing around with some things I would notice that the fuel pressure would go up but not more than 20 psi, but didn't hear the fuel pump when this happened. Replacing relay did nothing
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1 hour ago, Ronnie said:
There is little chance that the fuel filter is causing 0 fuel pressure. Do the fuel pump tests as described on my website.
Just tested it and the fuel injector kicked on
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5 minutes ago, Ronnie said:
You said, "Just hooked up a fuel gauge too the Schrader valve and no pressure,". That's a big problem that could cause all kinds of symptoms. You need to correct that problem first and then move on to checking the sensor readings.
Could a clogged/dirty fuel filter cause the no fuel pressure? (sometimes it does move up a few psi) also thank you so much for your time and help
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31 minutes ago, Ronnie said:
You might have a bad fuel pump relay. Even if the relay is bad, the pump will be powered through the oil pressure switch/sender once the oil pressure builds inside the engine.
I just rcan’t placed the 02 sensor, (ended up breaking the connector off while doing it but used the old one) but it seems to be reading a lot better and giving more response. However it started (when turned car on) being high, around .5 where after letting it run for about a minute it’s setting around ‘.05-.15’ could this be caused by the fuel pump not kicking in? And is there any quick test/check I can do on the relay to see if that’s the problem?
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6 hours ago, 2seater said:
It does get confusing when many numbers get bounced around at the same time🤪. I did mean that the O2 sensor reading, ED07, should be constantly moving. The usual range it circulates in is .2 (lean)-.8 (rich), with the crossover between rich and lean being around .45v. The cross counts, ED18, is the rate at which the O2 signals the exhaust is crossing over this target between rich and lean. There is no set figure for cross counts but generally the higher number, the better. Single digit cross counts at hot idle and in the teens and more while driving indicates a good operating system.
Just a suggestion, but an inexpensive infrared temperature gun might save toasted fingers when looking for an underperforming cylinder🙂 Getting to the rear exhaust would be an adventure but you are on to a good and useful means to narrow the search. You can also go into the override section of diagnostics and turn individual fuel injectors on and off to check for changes in idle quality. Sometimes it is helpful when doing a balance test to disconnect the IAC after a warm idle is achieved or the ECM will adjust idle speed to cover for a dropped cylinder.
Just hooked up a fuel gauge too the Schrader valve and no pressure, and has been having trouble starting.. once it started the pressure idled at about 35 or so.
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6 hours ago, 2seater said:
I hope you meant ED07 when you typed ED08? Under what conditions were those readings taken? The engine must be warmed up and the exhaust hot to be sure the O2 sensor is active. If that is the case, then the ED08 should have been moving around constantly or the sensor is either dead or reading a very lean mixture.
Yes, sorry. I meant ED07, it was going .28-.3. It was fairly warm, had been working on her and testing her. So it was was probably about 10-15 minutes after about 5-10 minutes drive that I started her up and got the readings. No check engine light was on when doing. I will double check the plugs once I get out of work.
Now you said ED08 should have been moving Constance did you mean 08 or 07 -
13 hours ago, 2seater said:
E044 is an O2 sensor code for lean. Have you checked the fuel pressure? What does diagnostic live data show for O2 sensor activity, ED07 (voltage) and ED18 (cross counts)? Related to this are the two fueling indicators ED19 Integrator or short term adjustment and ED20 Block Learn, long term fuel adjustment.
Were the coil pack and ICM both replaced? If this is a spark issue you may have two cylinders out, that would be #3 and its mate, #6. Were plugs and spark plug cables checked for quality and is there any chance plug wires were crossed on assembly?
Ed18 goes from 0 to two, ed07 is at about .3, Ed20 reads 155, 19 reads 155. I had my moms boyfriend check and clean the plugs and he said they looked fine, and no chance of cross, I would move one wire to the other coil pack before removing a second one. Cylinder six was hard to tell, but pretty sure it’s working. And with the e044 I read that it could be anything causing a lean mixture, so I’m thinking it could be the fuel injector? I could be wrong though.
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Well, I’m back… after finally getting the car started it doesn’t want to run properly.. it ran fine before it stopped running (ignition control module and coil pack) once I got it started it up, took it about two miles down the road ran fine. As I was leaving the store and getting on the road it was chugging really bad trying to accelerate. Today just took it out, ran okay for a minute, then it started to chugg only when shifting, (would still get up to speed) after slowing down for a light; the car started chugging more not going above 55. Then would chug more, and more. Any thoughts?
edit: check engine light came on e044
second edit: center cylinder in front doesn’t seem to be firing (tested by quick touching)
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5 hours ago, 1989randyboy said:
Any easy ways to test ignition module or the sensors would be appreciated. Having the same problem. Trouble shooting would be helpful as I'm retired and don't have money for unnecessary parts.
I think you can test the control module with a multimeter. Here’s a link on how. I just don’t know if it’s as easy as it says or specifically works for reatta how they describe it. I couldn’t find any where talking about how to test the coil packs though.
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On 6/3/2021 at 1:56 PM, DS_Porter 89 Burgandy said:
Dave is correct. Most likely the ignition module. I have had several crank sensor failures but the crank sensor generally works right or fails completely.
I suppose it could be intermittent but not likely. Swap parts one at a time starting with the ignition module. Use a little heat transfer paste between the module and the mounting plate.
Keep us updated
Replaced the ignition control module, started up on 2nd or third try
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On 6/8/2021 at 9:18 PM, DAVES89 said:
Did you try a used from a salvage yard. Just tell them you have a 1991 Reatta and that you need the adapter plate as well.
Replaced the ignition control module, after a couple of tries it started up. Thanks for the help.
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On 6/2/2021 at 4:05 PM, DAVES89 said:
Two ideas and both are cheap. Replace the coil pack ignition module with a Delco unit. Jim Finn or Marck at East Coast Reattas can help you out. Also try the crank sensor.
Alternator does nothing with starting you car, it runs the electrical system and keeps the battery charged. Starter if it grinds it's good.
I replaces the coil pack, still just the center one getting warm… I’ll have to wait till next paycheck to order the actual ignition control module.
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Hello everyone, I am having issues with my 1988 Buick Reatta. It will not start, and there is no check engine light. I have replaced the alternator and starter, still won’t start. It will crank but not start. This happened after I followed a forum on replacing the magnet interpreter for the camshaft sensor, but I believe I did that right and that it’s just coincidence. After replacing it it had trouble starting but started. Then later on my way home it had problem starting, ran fine, then I got home and wouldn’t start at all. The center coil in the coil pack is the only one getting warm, is there a way to test the other two coils? And would it be possible that it’s the ignition control model? Sorry I’m advance if I’m bad at explaining, I love cars and working on them but don’t have much experience, so still learning! Thank you.
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On 5/13/2021 at 6:07 PM, DAVES89 said:
I believe there is a fog light switch on the console as well.
Yeah, sorry if I wasn’t clear, that was the one I was referring too. If it’s on or off it still has the same issue
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9 hours ago, padgett said:
Do the lights turn off with the ignition off if you open the door ? Could be the RAP.
No they do not. The park light is also on when the ignition is on and shuts off when the car does but if I turn the head lights on it has the problem of not shutting off.
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Yeah, sorry if I wasn’t clear, that was the one I was referring too. If it’s on or off it still has the same issue
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Hi, I’ve searched a lot on this topic but still can’t find anything that works. So I need someone’s help, my car (1988 reatta) park light turns on when I turn on the head lights but won’t shut off when the lights turn off. Sometimes it does work if I turn the car off then turn the lights off, but not all the time. The fog lamp button doesn’t seem to help (I’ve read people saying that helps) and I’ve replaced the relay, the only thing I haven’t really done is try and replace the actual button, which it might be, I feel the button engage once I turn them on, but trying to use the park button to turn them off it doesn’t give that click.
1988 Reatta not running well
in Buick Reatta
Posted
Hey, sorry it’s been a while. Been short on time, money and energy, but I have finally got the fuel pump kicking on everytime I turn the key now to prime, and replaced all plugs and wires, still am having the same issue where the longer the car drives the worse it is able to accelerate.