ToxicRyno

Hey, sorry it’s been a while. Been short on time, money and energy, but I have finally got the fuel pump kicking on everytime I turn the key now to prime, and replaced all plugs and wires, still am having the same issue where the longer the car drives the worse it is able to accelerate.

At about 200 degrees the fuel pump seems to still be running (this is without taking the car out and just letting it sit) and the rpms are at abou 725-775. When I first started it it was around 1200 rpms. And worked it’s way down as heating up

When hot wired it is at about 43. When the engine is running its at about 35. When giving gas it will increase a few psi but not over 40, but that is also me not flooring it (live close to neighbors that complain a lot)

One the car was started it was running. I am gonna let it warm up a bit and see if it stays running

I had started the car with after doing the fuel pump prime connector, and I then also tried to create a connection while the car was running, but I don’t think there was one, however there was a wining noise which sounded like the fuel pump once the car was running, (was from back of car and sounded like it was from the tank) but I am not 100% sure. I also did not leave in running long at all. Maybe a couple of minutes. I was thinking about creating a stable connection with the wire and trying to drive around with the fuel pump connected like that but wasn’t sure if that was a good idea or not.

I am pretty sure it is the correct one, however it looks like the socket may have been changed in the pass, there is electrical tape over where it looks like a new connection was made from the original wires.

Yes. Same results, and I had someone turn the key while checking the prime wire, and it there was no change. When I supplied 12 volts to the relay for 10 seconds it was about 40 and held. It just doesn’t seem to be kicking on from the key.

So I would have to drop the tank just to check that wouldn’t I..

Sorry, I guess I had miss read some things, I had only tested the fuel pump primer with the 12volts and it had kicked in.(So I guess the load test) which had read around 42-45 each time. I went back and tested the primer with a multimeter and to the negative terminal of the battery and got no readings. However every now again while testing the key and messing around with some things I would notice that the fuel pressure would go up but not more than 20 psi, but didn't hear the fuel pump when this happened. Replacing relay did nothing

Just tested it and the fuel injector kicked on

Could a clogged/dirty fuel filter cause the no fuel pressure? (sometimes it does move up a few psi) also thank you so much for your time and help

I just rcan’t placed the 02 sensor, (ended up breaking the connector off while doing it but used the old one) but it seems to be reading a lot better and giving more response. However it started (when turned car on) being high, around .5 where after letting it run for about a minute it’s setting around ‘.05-.15’ could this be caused by the fuel pump not kicking in? And is there any quick test/check I can do on the relay to see if that’s the problem?

Just hooked up a fuel gauge too the Schrader valve and no pressure, and has been having trouble starting.. once it started the pressure idled at about 35 or so.

Yes, sorry. I meant ED07, it was going .28-.3. It was fairly warm, had been working on her and testing her. So it was was probably about 10-15 minutes after about 5-10 minutes drive that I started her up and got the readings. No check engine light was on when doing. I will double check the plugs once I get out of work. Now you said ED08 should have been moving Constance did you mean 08 or 07

Ed18 goes from 0 to two, ed07 is at about .3, Ed20 reads 155, 19 reads 155. I had my moms boyfriend check and clean the plugs and he said they looked fine, and no chance of cross, I would move one wire to the other coil pack before removing a second one. Cylinder six was hard to tell, but pretty sure it’s working. And with the e044 I read that it could be anything causing a lean mixture, so I’m thinking it could be the fuel injector? I could be wrong though.

Well, I’m back… after finally getting the car started it doesn’t want to run properly.. it ran fine before it stopped running (ignition control module and coil pack) once I got it started it up, took it about two miles down the road ran fine. As I was leaving the store and getting on the road it was chugging really bad trying to accelerate. Today just took it out, ran okay for a minute, then it started to chugg only when shifting, (would still get up to speed) after slowing down for a light; the car started chugging more not going above 55. Then would chug more, and more. Any thoughts? edit: check engine light came on e044 second edit: center cylinder in front doesn’t seem to be firing (tested by quick touching)

I think you can test the control module with a multimeter. Here’s a link on how. I just don’t know if it’s as easy as it says or specifically works for reatta how they describe it. I couldn’t find any where talking about how to test the coil packs though.

Replaced the ignition control module, started up on 2nd or third try

Replaced the ignition control module, after a couple of tries it started up. Thanks for the help.

I replaces the coil pack, still just the center one getting warm… I’ll have to wait till next paycheck to order the actual ignition control module.

Hello everyone, I am having issues with my 1988 Buick Reatta. It will not start, and there is no check engine light. I have replaced the alternator and starter, still won’t start. It will crank but not start. This happened after I followed a forum on replacing the magnet interpreter for the camshaft sensor, but I believe I did that right and that it’s just coincidence. After replacing it it had trouble starting but started. Then later on my way home it had problem starting, ran fine, then I got home and wouldn’t start at all. The center coil in the coil pack is the only one getting warm, is there a way to test the other two coils? And would it be possible that it’s the ignition control model? Sorry I’m advance if I’m bad at explaining, I love cars and working on them but don’t have much experience, so still learning! Thank you.

Yeah, sorry if I wasn’t clear, that was the one I was referring too. If it’s on or off it still has the same issue

No they do not. The park light is also on when the ignition is on and shuts off when the car does but if I turn the head lights on it has the problem of not shutting off.

Yeah, sorry if I wasn’t clear, that was the one I was referring too. If it’s on or off it still has the same issue

Hi, I’ve searched a lot on this topic but still can’t find anything that works. So I need someone’s help, my car (1988 reatta) park light turns on when I turn on the head lights but won’t shut off when the lights turn off. Sometimes it does work if I turn the car off then turn the lights off, but not all the time. The fog lamp button doesn’t seem to help (I’ve read people saying that helps) and I’ve replaced the relay, the only thing I haven’t really done is try and replace the actual button, which it might be, I feel the button engage once I turn them on, but trying to use the park button to turn them off it doesn’t give that click.