Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by RobertLDuncan

  1. What I was pointing out is you don't pick a refergrant based on flammability. Even R290 (propane) isn't really any more dangerous than R12 or R134a when the oil mist is present in a large leak.
  2. To be clear, if an R12 system has a catastrophic release of gas it will be an atomized cloud of mineral oil, which would be very flammable.
  3. Thanks Jerry, that is just the information I need.
  4. Can someone post a picture or wiring schematic showing colors of the wiring to the tin can relay on the pull-down drive for the top? My wires got disconnected from the three way plug and I don't know how to properly reconnect them.
  5. I found this TSB page, https://workshop-manuals.com/chrysler/tc_by_maserati/l4-135_2313cc_2.2l_sohc_turbo_vin_p_fi/relays_and_modules/relays_and_modules_body_and_frame/convertible_top_relay/component_information/technical_service_bulletins/customer_interest_for_convertible_top_relay/080290/mar/90/battery_dead_intermittently/ Which shows part number 4318800 for that relay. Which I searched for and found one NOS on eBay for $29 (I already bought it so it won't help you), but gives another search option.
  6. Yes, I am with you on this. I can be #3, or maybe #2.5. If you can find a picture of the tools I might be able to machine something. I am going to fit an A568 to my car while trying to fix the 284. I expect it to take a year or so. I found a reference to the detent mechanism being difficult. It shows a cover inside the bell housing that prys off to expose balls and springs that mate to grooves in the shift rail shafts. Keeping track of these is very important. The input shaft seal is also an issue. It gets destroyed removing the retainer. It looks like a new retainer could be machined to hold a traditional seal. Then the parts that need replaced, the syncro rings/blocker rings might be able to be built up with metal vacuum disposition or plating. Or just machine new ones. I have to believe that some other Getrag transmission has close enough parts to work in the 284, but finding them would be a chore. Anyways, I would love to share information going forward.
  7. Is it as simple as using a Dodge flywheel to fit the A568 transmission to the 16v block? So how does being a TC America club member help with Reaper1s transmission issue? I am now a member. Other than two newsletters what information do I have access to?
  8. My thinking is that the 284 is not worth investing dollars. It is not serviceable in the future. The Dodge transmission will easily take the power of the 16v moter and can be serviced in the future.
  9. My 16v TC has no functioning 3rd gear syncro. Disappointing since the car only has 36k miles. I am researching replacing it with an A568. From this post I see that the 16v flywheel will not fit in the A568 case. Will another turbo Dodge flywheel fit the 16v crank and allow the A568 to be used? Then what shift cables are required? It looks like I can mix and match CV ends onto axle halfshafts for the left side to match the A568 splines, then rework the intermediate shaft for the right side. Is a turbo Dodge intermediate shaft a direct fit to the 16v block? Then convert to Dodge halfshafts. My understanding is that the wheel ends are the same as Dodge parts, the trans end is a special spline for the 284. The other idea, I have a small machine shop, is to get a broken/spare 284 and experiment with making my own parts/tools to rebuild the 284. I have done something like this with a BMW trans. I was able to use parts from a common BMW 328 5 speed trans to fix a rare BMW 735i factory Getrag 5 speed car (1 of 410 in North America). For the mean time I am driving the TC and skipping 3rd gear.
  10. So what is the solution for a transmission swap? Can you use a different Mopar flywheel on the Maserati crank?
  11. Thank you. That's perfect. I was trying to make it fit off to the side, rather than straight on. I now see what I need to do.
  12. That's getting close. I need the other end of that rod.
  13. Yes, I have seen that. Where does part #22 attach? It seems to be where the push rod (#23) rests at the front of the grill.
  14. My new to me 1990 TC 16v came with a bungee cord to release the secondary latch on the hood. I found the bracket for the release rod in a bag of parts in the spare tire bin. I see two pop rivets on the underside of the center front grill. But I don't know how to orient the bracket there. Could someone post some pictures of the bracket in place for me? Thanks,
  15. Are parts still available from this car? I am looking for the push rod for the safety hood release that peeks out from under the grill when the cable release is pulled. Thanks,
  • Create New...