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JerryLG

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  1. Hemi, May I call you to discuss the issue? I think I know what my issue is and a way to do a workaround. If available for a short call, send your contact # to my email: Gapeachjhg@verizon.net.
  2. Hemi, after two more hours of trying to turn that switch in all directions to get it out, It appears that that L-bracket has to be removed or at loosen enough to get it to turn out of the way. I have just about given up on trying to get the switch out any other way. My issue is that the nut for the L bracket is in a location which makes it difficult to remove and I may not be able to get it started back on the stud once removed. NAPA says they have universal clips that should work, so I am going to go look at them and see what they have. My switch has the original clip on it and it appears to be factory original by the labeling on the wiring. At least it lasted 30 years. It may take me that long to replace it at the rate I am going.
  3. Hemi, I removed what turned out to be an 8 MM nut and the switch and its mounting bracket were then free from the brake support top-half clamshell. I just spent the better part of 3 hours trying to turn that switch in every direction I could without being able to remove it from that clamshell cavity. It wants to hang up on the brake pedal actuating L-bracket. I am unable to get any kind of a socket or wrench on that 8 MM nut in order to try to get that L-bracket free to turn it a slight bit to make room for the switch removal. Garage is just too hot to work on it for now. Will take another look when it gets cooler. I am thinking the switch needs to be pulled or pried from its mounting bracket first (if this is even possible due to lack of space), then remove the bracket and take things out in two separate parts. As a side note, I am unable to find a replacement adjusting clip (PN 6031704) anywhere locally. I have to assume I will need a new one as the old one in all likelihood may get damaged while trying to remove it from the defective switch.
  4. Hemi, I was finally able to get a small mirror reflection over the top of the brake pedal support and I can see the nut and the retainer tab on the outside of the support. I am hoping that I can push the switch toward the rear of the car and get it to release from the retainer after removing the nut and washer. I will try to attack on Thursday morning to see if I can remove the nut and then get the switch to come out of the retainer bracket. I will update you on my progress. These photos have been a big help.
  5. Hemi, great picture and great suggestion. I see in the photo that the steering column is gone which is why I was asking if it made sense to drop the column loose from its holding bracket. With that column in place, I am having a hard time trying to figure out how I would be able to move the switch toward the back of the car, as I cannot get my hands or fingers near the switch to move it in any direction. What is holding the switch in place toward the back side of the car? Is there another metal bracket that the circular molding on the back of the switch fits into, as I am unable to move that switch in any direction? I am calling it quits until later this evening as it is just too hot to work on in the garage right now.
  6. I metered the brake light switch and it is bad, so I am trying to figure out how to remove it from the top of the steering column. It almost looks like you need extremely small hands to get to its location which I don't have. Is there a secret on how to get it removed short of dropping the steering column down to get at it? My friendly mechanic stated, "you should be able to reach up and grab the switch and push it toward the ratcheting end and then drop it out of the holder." I cannot get my hands anywhere near the switch to even begin to move it in any direction. I can barely get one hand above the steering column and the brake support frame to even touch the switch. I am unable to view the switch holder at all. What is the magic removal process?
  7. I metered the brake light switch and it is bad, so I am trying to figure out how to remove it from the top of the steering column. It almost looks like you need extremely small hands to get to its location which I don't have. Is there a secret on how to get it removed short of dropping the steering column down to get at it? My friendly mechanic stated, "you should be able to reach up and grab the switch and push it toward the ratcheting end and then drop it out of the holder." I cannot get my hands anywhere near the switch to even begin to move it in any direction. What's is the magic removal process?
  8. TC KER, I do not have any photos, as I was just looking at the '91 wiring diagram. It appears there is a flexible cable running from those lights over to the main printed circuit board (PCB) mentioned in the earlier posts. The connector is designated as being red and plugs into the left side back of the circuit board. There is another cable marked as gray on the electrical diagram that plugs into the circuit board on the right back side. Hopefully, another member will have some pictures if they have torn into the instrument cluster at some time in the past.
  9. TC KER It appears that the issue may very well be the left printed circuit board connector has a loose connector or a possible solder joint is bad. It appears that those warning lights and the distance sensor are on the same connector. Looking at a 1991 wiring diagram the park brake and brake warning light, the anti-lock warning, the low oil, check engine, temperature sensor, and distance sensor are all on the left printed circuit board connector (RED). You may want to check that connector to the dash panel whenever you get time to do so.
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