Rock10
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Posts posted by Rock10
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This group is the greatest!
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I assume it did work before the rebuild?
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I don't know about yours, but when I worked on our 36, we had the front seat out and it still took a lot of twisting and turning to get to the back side of things. Never a good place for your head.
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That's a lot of crud. I wouldn't think it was worth saving, but if you can't get anything else... 🤷♂️
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You all have a great day.
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T
3 minutes ago, Morgan Wright said:What matters is the voltage at the spark plug, not the voltage of the battery. The number of turns on the secondary coil determines the voltage at the spark plug. The whole 6 V versus 12 V makes no difference, you can make a million volts with a 6V battery if you want.
Buick changed the gap size when they changed to 12 volts.
The larger gap made our car run smoother.
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1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
I am with you, Rock.
I went to 12V, internal resisted coil 10 years back. 20,000+ miles. No problems. I run a gap of .040.
My engine is not much different from yours. Enjoy your BUICK!
Thank you for taking the time to {try to, anyway} educate us.
Ben
Thank you.
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49 minutes ago, Bloo said:
So @Rock10, you and I are both asking for trouble from unwanted ignition coupling between cylinders and from insulation failure. Since my wires are held far away from anything grounded on an insulator, I have only the coil, cap, and rotor (especially the rotor) to worry about. You have literally all of it.
Modern cars run high voltage ignitions with no problems.
Our wires are new with boots on the ends. The coil is new as is the wiring in the distributor. My main point was that Buick saw fit to increase the gap when they changed to 12 volt systems. And I noticed an improvement in the smoothness of the idle and when you rev the engine.
I'm not suggesting everybody regap their plugs on vintage equipment. Just if you have converted to a 12V coil, you may benefit from a larger gap.
Really didn't want to start a war.
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Don't want to get into a 6 vs 12 argument.
The car had a new harness, 12v battery, starter, generator, most bulbs, and COIL. I recently replaced the coil with one that has an internal resistor.
I went with a standard Champion 516 (D16) plug.
The bigger gap will allow for more complete fuel burning. I would imagine a 6V coil can't jump a .032 gap. That's why they are set at .025.
Again, in 1953, Buick changed the gap and I think that's when they changed to 12V.
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We have a 1936 40. It was converted to 12 volts by previous owners.
I finally got around to changing plugs a few weeks ago. When I looked up the gap, I noticed that Buick changed from .025 to .032 at the same time the changed to 12 volt systems. That makes sense as the 12 volt coils produce more high voltage than the 6 volt. So I increased the gap to .030 on the new plugs and the engine runs smoother.
Just wondering what everyone thought. I am thinking of going to .032.
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I punched it up a little for you. Still hard to read.
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Thanks guys.
That answers my questions.
The 1/8" tubing is correct and so is the fitting. I just need to let it compress on the tube.
Not sure why the line from the carb is 3/16", but I can make a rubber hose connection work.
Gotta love the people here.
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Possible, but I have 2 here and they are the same. The 1/8" tubing does fit in the hole. Is that the standard size for the Vacuum advance?
A new 1/8 threaded sleeve will only go about 1 turn before it gets hand tight. I'd be afraid to try and tighten it for fear of stripping the threads.
It seems the nose is too long. It is compared to the old one, but that must be the wrong tube size anyway.
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Thanks
I have some of those for both the 1/8" and 3/16" tubing.
The one for the 1/8" tubing looks right but the nose is too long to let the threads start. The 1/8 tubing fits inside the hole, the 3/16 does not. the 3/16 fitting is too big for the hole.
The car has 3/16" tubing from the carb to the advance unit.
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I have some of those called threaded sleeves.
The one from the car is 3/16 tubing and 5/16 thread. and It has a short nose.
All I can find in 5/16 thread are 1/8 " tubing with a longer nose that doesn't want to start threading.
What size tubing was used for vacuum advance?
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Can anybody tell me what kind of fitting was supposed to be used on the copper line for the vacuum advance on a 1936 series 40 distributor?
The car came with a kind of distorted flare, but that doesn't look like what should work in the fitting.
I have a picture of the proper advance unit for the car and of the fitting that came on the car.
The unit looks like it might take a compression fitting.
Thanks
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If it's lacquer, lacquer thinner will remove it. So would other solvents. I would work on a small area. Maybe leave a dampened rag on it for a while.
I would be hesitant to immerse the wires and connectors. Don't know what it would do to the insulation.
There are also lacquer specific strippers
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Thank you for the lecture, Professor.
So much useful info. Engine balance can be confusing. You made it simple.
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Ours was a pain to get out, but it did come and we were able to get it all rebuilt.
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You have to drain some coolant too.
If it's like our 36, the tube was already broken. It took forever to the bulb out. We had it rebuilt for around $250 if I remember.
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Yes. Ours was packed solid with nasty, crusty stuff.
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He definitely earned the $500. 👍
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Cool. How much?
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