thompsonblake40

@NewOldWood I would like to take you up on your offer to have a phone call about this project. I've just refurbished my workspace and gathered all the necessary tools and would like to jump into the steps you laid out above. I have some questions about "bleaching" the wood then adding a stain, maybe similar to what you've done with your power wagon. Do you have a current number I can give you a call on? Thanks so much for the help.

@46Woodie The hood decal on the top of the hood. The plastic tip on mine is broken. Also the plastic vents on the dash, a few of the slats are broken. Is there a main parts house for these or just a bit of hunt because of the rarity? The rest of the trim is in good shape, I plan to pull it all and have it reworked, to pull the dents out and re chromed. I've found a shop in CA called Bumper Boys, struggling locally here in Oregon to find a rechrome shop. @blind pew Currently I'm leaning towards clear coat. I've read on Rick Macks Website how he uses wood toner after the sanding and bleaching process to help determine how warm he wants it. I agree the varnish adds that nice rich hue. I'm still a long ways away to determine Varnish or Clear coat lol. I'm planning to leave the primary structural wood frame in place and sand it while its still bolted to the frame. The one question I have is that, I plan to repaint it Tuscon Tan instead of its original burgundy color, where the metal floor boards meets the wood, is that generally 1 color or is that the color of the car? In other words, if I leave the wood bolted on when doing the reconditioning, then repaint the car, will the colors under the wood be incorrect? Same with the floor pan, where all super deluxes painted with a red floor pan? Thanks,

@46woodie, So far I know I’m missing the spare tire cover. I have the mount but not the metal cover. I’d also like to get a new front decal for the hood and new rubber. Ive seen bob drake has rubber but any help locating the other would be awesome. I’d love to see photos of the evolution of your 46 if you have some. We got it running today. Sounds amazing. Had to have the radiator recored and order two new water pumps but that’s minimal for a rig that hasn’t ran in 60 years. Need to get some new wheels and tires under her as well. @blind pewgreat to hear I can leave everything in place and intact. Makes the job a little less daunting. Rick Mack says that he prefers the clear coat for durability. Do you have a preference? It seems like it may be a little more robust long term? It seems that’s good paint shop could spray a clear on everything once intact including the paneling, would you agree? thanks guys.

@NewOldWoodI'm currently reading and researching as much as possible on the wood work. I plan to do as much as possible. The previous owner started on some of the wood work so I'm looking how to pick that up in the best way possible. The current wood is all original and in pretty good shape. In 2008 the owner purchased the attached list of materials from Cincinnati Wood Works to replace the roof headers, bows, and mahogany side panels. I have this kit still intact, with most of it unopened. The exterior passenger side of the van has been stripped from the hardware and has been sanded, with maybe some bleaching. The interior remains original varnish. The driver side is in its original state. I'm currently reading "The DIY Guide to Woodie Woodworking". I've read Rick Macks website and guidance. Do I need to completely dissemble all the wood into individual pieces sand, bleach, tone, clear coat or can I do these in sections? Like if I do a door, or the tail gate etc. Does everything need to be removed from the car and refit after sanding, bleaching, toning, removed again, then clear coated and placed for final positioning. I've read a lot on the process of starting with new wood kits but not much on the process of having a complete car with original wood and bringing it back. @46 Woodie, I agree with the front end rebuild there, it hasn't been on the road since '60 so everything could use some TLC. I like the idea of cruising at 55mph max! Thanks again for all the help, is just the community I'm looking to plug into.

I do like the idea of a reliable and comfortable drive, but I'm also debating keeping it stock. This car is a 2 owner car with 52,000 original miles. It hasn't been on the road since 1960 and garaged ever since. I don't have any intentions to sell it when its complete. I enjoy driving old cars rather than keeping them in the garage. Does it take away from the value by upgrading the drivetrain and such? I'll probably run the flathead for a while until I have the budget to upgrade. Thanks so much for the help.

Thank you fo the help. I'm in Oregon. I'll continue to do some research on parts and I do have the roof gutters. I'm interested in what kind of chassis upgrades people have done to make the drive better. Does anyone have any info or a thread that discuss this? Thanks.

Hi All, I'm looking for a bit of guidance on starting the restoration on a 1947 Ford Woodie I just picked up. It has 50,000 original miles and hasn't been on the road since 1960. Everything is original on the car, including motor and trans. Previous owners started to sand the original wood and purchased a wood kit for the roof from Cincinnati Wood Works in 2009, prior to the shop being closed. All the wood is there it just needs some TLC, there is no rot. I'm looking to do as much wood work as I can myself so any info on the refurbishing process would be appreciated as well as any and all info about this year. I'd like to connect with owners and find vendors for roof material. Thanks for the help, can't wait to get started!