Stude1954

Yikes ……. I thought that might be the case but had no proof till you posted that picture. 14 spokes per wheel times 5 wheels ….. Thats a bunch of plates (70) to remove 🙄. Seems like I need to search even harder for a plater who doesnt need the centers removed. Hard to imagine the wheel maker ( still dont know who made these) plated the centers, installed rivets, and then welded on those ‘spoke cover plates’ without damaging the chrome! Not sure there was a TIG process equivalent available 90 years ago ?? Anyway, thanks a bunch for posting Mike 👍

Rex, Yes both ‘vendors’ are supposed to be 33 wheels …. AFAIK This is the set of 5 I bought in Nov …. Which I cant identify yet Heres a BUDD ( found the Logo ) that I got for a 6th

Still not sure what I have here …. But I found another clue in the bright sunlight. Found a blind ‘head’ on the inside face of the rim. These ‘fasteners’ dont seem to have any slot, sunken hex (cap head) or any other means of holding/turning. The other end of each one is inside a ‘cap / plate’ behind each spoke ( see previous post ). I am going to soak one rim in rust remover and see if I can get a better idea how to access the fastener ‘head’ or ‘nut’ I still havent found any numbers anywhere on the rim assembly but I did find what appears to be a ‘makers mark’. This one was on the wheel mounting surface inside the spoke center: And here is another mark on the inside of the wheel rim: Does anyone recognize either of these ‘Makers Marks’ ??? Andy

For separating the spoke centers from the rims heres what I have foumd so far: My set of 5 are those ‘mystery wheels’ with the makers marks ( see above ) and the backside of the spoakes are ‘covered’. I bought a 6th wheel ( its a dual sidemount car ) and its acually a BUDD wheel. The backside of the spokes on this one is ‘open’ Fasteners (rivet head on the BUDD wheel) on the ‘set of 5’ and the Budd both have that ‘flathead’ shown in the post above. If anyone knows the ‘trick’ to exposing the ‘set of 5’ fasteners I would greatly appreciate it

Rex, yep, I was thinking a out chroming the entire wheel but the platers locally I have talked to so far say that without specific tanks and equipmemt for wheels they dont plate correctly. But I have just begun to get serious about searching so we shall see …..

Still not sure what I have here …. But I found another clue in the bright sunlight. Found a blind ‘head’ on the inside face of the rim. These ‘fasteners’ dont seem to have any slot, sunken hex (cap head) or any other means of holding/turning. The other end of each one is inside a ‘cap / plate’ behind each spoke ( see previous post ). I am going to soak one rim in rust remover and see if I can get a better idea how to access the fastener ‘head’ or ‘nut’ I still havent found any numbers anywhere on the rim assembly but I did find what appears to be a ‘makers mark’. This one was on the wheel mounting surface inside the spoke center: And here is another mark on the inside of the wheel rim: Does anyone recognize either of these ‘Makers Marks’ ??? Andy

Still not sure what I have here …. But I found another clue in the bright sunlight. Found a blind ‘head’ on the inside face of the rim. These ‘fasteners’ dont seem to have any slot, sunken hex (cap head) or any other means of holding/turning. The other end of each one is inside a ‘cap / plate’ behind each spoke ( see previous post ). I am going to soak one rim in rust remover and see if I can get a better idea how to access the fastener ‘head’ or ‘nut’ I still havent found any numbers anywhere on the rim assembly but I did find what appears to be a ‘makers mark’. This one was on the wheel mounting surface inside the spoke center: And here is another mark on the inside of the wheel rim: Does anyone recognize either of these ‘Makers Marks’ ??? Andy

Tom, are the ‘bolt heads’ hidden ? I sure cant find any ….. will look again tomorrow.

Thanks Rex …… was hoping you might see this. Can you recommend any particular club members I could talk to about how the centers are removed ? I looked closer today at the back side. The centers are Welded not riveted ??? Cant immediately see what the function of these threaded studs are either …. There are 3 of them around the rim There are no rivet heads ot fastener heads of any kind that I can see on the inside edge of the rim (where the innertube would sit inside the tire). So they (spoked centers) were chromed and then somehow welded to the outer rim before being painted ?? How was the chrome plating not damaged during welding? Sorry for the 20 questions …… Andy

Second picture shows the chrome peeling off the center section spokes

Looking to get a set of Artillery Wheels Chrome plated. The center spoked section gets the chrome while the outer rim is painted …. Often in body color. And the centers appeqr to be riveted to the outer rim. Do the center sections need to be removed, plated, and somehow re-riveted back into the outer rim on some kind of ‘jig’ so the outer remains concentric? Hoping to find someone who has had this done ………

And lastly, heres another shot of a ‘33 rear ..... dual sidemount spare Model 73 Commander Sedan (1933)

And heres a 33 front — again, Model 56

Pretty sure ( not positive ) that ‘34 and ‘35 are the same —- the ‘deeper hoop’ in the rear bumper for a rear spare car. See Dr Watson’s post above. Heres a 34 front :

I know its been awhile ..... heres a 33 rear bumper .... Model 56

Canadian Kid, Do you think the Studebaker is still there? I sure could use a few of those parts if I could track down the owner. Please PM, email, or phone — sure would appreciate it. (513) 827-2968 stude1954@gmail.com Andy

Looking for Model 56 ( or 1933 models) parts and I could use a good firewall pad. Andy stude1954@gmail.com (513) 827-2968

Ok, thanks for posting. If the seller ever responds I will let everyone know. So far they havent .......

Is this car still for sale? Andy stude1954@gmail.com (513) 827-2968

Do you still have the headlights? Please PM .....apparently. I dont have enough posts yet or email = stude1954@gmail.com Andy

I know its been almost 2 years .... still have the seat and robe rail?

Handleman, do u still have the Artillery Wheels? Please PM me .... I dont have enough posts to send a PM yet. Or email (stude1954@gmail.com) Thx, Andy

Sorry Rex .... I re-read your response and I see that 32-33 are ‘smaller’. Just wondered if you knew how Much smaller — in actual dimensions Thanks

Rex, What about the Height and width dimensions? Are they the same for the ‘31 Tiltray buckets as for the 32-33 Glolite and Stabilite buckets?. I measured a Tiltray I have ... with the lens and trim ring installed it measures appx 12-1/2 Tall and 9-1/2 Wide Andy

Recently purchased a complete Tiltray Oval headlight bucket with TiltRay lens. I have not ( and right now would rather not ) dis-assembled to get any TiltRay part numbers from my purchase. I am trying to determine if this will fit my 1933 Model 56. My chassis parts manual lists 4 different Studebaker part numbers from late ‘30 through ‘33 for the various models of Dictator, Commander, President and Model 54-56. Three Different manufacturers are referenced: Tilt Ray Glo-Lite Stab-I-Lite ( which is listed for my car ) I have ‘heard’ that there were 2 different sizes of these oval headlight assemblies — possibly the ‘larger’ ( physical dimensions of Height and or Width ) used on some President and Commander cars, and another for the others. This may or may not be true. Same Stude part number as my 1933 Model 56 coupe ( #256930W ) was used on 1933 Model 73 ( ‘33 Commander), and Models 82 and 92 (‘33 President). But this part number is for a Stab-I-Lite assembly Can anyone answer this question? STUDEREX ..... if you are out there I am fairly sure you can answer this. Thanks all, Andy