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Everything posted by 040under

  1. You can use Model A rods, I'm using 34- 41 Plymouth rods for higher compression. You must build up the crank for Ply rods, I do the clam shell method to build the crank up. You can also use Model A Valves and seats ( the larger than stock ) A slightly more modern cam configuration helps, as stock is good for about 2500 RPM.
  2. I hope you have the Engine. It needs to be taken apart and checked. It could be simple as Gaskets, Rings and Bearings. Check around for Good old timey mechanics. Now days, most anything can be rebuilt or made, I have substituted many parts for my 1928 Chevy engine, Bill
  3. Probably for another instrument Close by, in the Original app., Bill
  4. I think your best bet is a continuous search on Ebay. If you don't know about that, have a friend help. Works well for me, Bill PS, did you try a free want add at the Nash Club online ?
  5. Hi, Pull the pan, and remove the rear main cap. Using a dowel or suitable pusher, from one side, push the upper seal out from one side, and pull it out with pliers when you can get a good hold. Bottom part of seal is easy. Some people use wire pushed through the top area, tied to the seal to pull it through. Pull the wire, and push the seal to get the new piece in. Also push the upper seal in on the sides (I use a medium small screwdriver ) so it doesn't get thin. Not the best, but it works. Leaks can be caused by Loose bearings too. SOMETIMES you can get molded rubber replacements, MUCH easier to install. Loosening all the mains will make it easier to install the upper part of the seal. Not too much, 1/8 " approximately. Good Luck.
  6. I bot some early dodge 6 rods for a chevy engine project, and when I received them, they had an offset at the big end - why for ??? Bill
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