Steve Seguin

I used the steering column out of the 74 Dodge W150, I pulled the steering box out of and was able to work it to connect to the steering box. I didn't want to cut into my dash so the steering wheel is a little close to the seat. It works for now but I may switch out for a tilt steering column down the road. With your inline 6 you should no problem mounting a Saginaw pump down low with the steering box mounted on the outside of the frame just ahead of the left wheel. You must make sure you have clearance for full wheel travel when locating the mounting point for the steering box. I am sending you the link from Mopar Truck Parts (steering box upgrade). It talks about an upgrade for 4 X 4's, but it is the steering box you will require due to the "reverse rotation" of the non-typical 1972 - 1977 Dodge 4 X 4 style steering box. This is exactly what I used in my truck. The cast iron mounting plate you get with the box, sure makes the job go a lot easier. Here is the link: https://www.mopartruckparts.com/tech/t018.html I hope this helps. Some people suggested going with an electric power steering setup, but I am old school and I work part time at a wrecking yard and there happen to be a 1974 Dodge W150 sitting there with the steering still intact. I still have the inner fender removed on my truck and will try to take some pictures. Steve

I can help you with the steering. What engine do you have? A previous owner of my truck swapped out the original engine for a 1978 400 CiD big block and I found it very difficult to steer in tight places due to the extra weight. I in stalled a power steering box out of a 1974 Dodge W150. From what I found out was you can only use a steering box from a early 1970's Dodge or Toyota 4 X 4, due to the reverse direction of the late 50's Dodge truck set-up (the centre link if in front of the axle). You will have to do some drilling and bracket manufacturing once you figure out a location that best suits your steering shaft. The pitman arm will bolt right up. The power steering pump will depend on your engine set-up. I didn't have much room and had to use a Thompson pump instead of a Saginaw pump. I have more info that I can send later. Steve

Correction, the reborn Scarebird does offer a kit. They have the bracket and hub and just bracket options. I will probably be purchasing the bracket option and use my original hub. Steve

Good day, I can help you with the power steering if you are keeping the original steering and suspension. As for the disc brakes, I haven't done a conversion yet because I didn't purchase a Scarebird kit before they were sold and the new ownership has no listing for the 58/59 Dodge trucks. Steve

Good day, 26 Chev is back together and working well. Did the reassembly through the rear of the differential. Car is back on the road.

Update, today was our lucky day. We found a used prop shaft, in great shape at a classic auto salvage yard near by. Roblin's Garage has been in business since 1930 and they have a barn full of used and NOS parts dating back to probably the 20's. They have a Web site but most of the vehicles have been sent to the scrap heap in the last few years.The old shaft had broke on tapered section where the pinion gear attaches via a woodruff key. I will now do some parts cleaning and start reassembly along with adjusting the backlash.

I have reprint of a 1925-1926 Chevrolet repair manual that covers the more common problems. It has the section on the differential and axles but seems to be lacking some details. It is only 129 pages. I don't know if it is the same as a workshop manual. I have already disconnected the torque tube at the gearbox and removed the rear inspection cover from the diff. I will pull the axles and crown wheel next and go from there. Do you think the prop shaft could be repaired or will we have to source a new one and where would we find one?

Sorry for late reply, I haven't been checking the forum recently. I could take a picture of the power steering I installed, it works good. I am still looking for a disc brake conversion option. I believe Scarebird no longer exists. I liked what they had. They made the bracket and I could locally purchase the caliper and rotor. Very cost effective. Have you converted yours?

Thanks for the reply, I highly suspected this is the case. Do you know if the diff can be removed from the housing while on the car. If so, does it come out of the back or front of the housing. The manual shows removal of the entire rear end from the springs which would require raising the back of the car.

A friend of mine has a 1926 Chev Touring and the propeller shaft inside the torque tube has disconnected at the front of the differential. He had been moving it in reverse and then shifted to 1st and it wouldn't move. He thought the transmission failed. He did not hear any noise such as a snap or bang. I jacked it up and removed the back wheels and rear diff inspection cover, to check the axles. Axles are fine. I pulled the front of the torque tube from the transmission tail stock, and the tranny is working fine. The problem seems to be where the propeller shaft attaches to the pinion gear. I have a manual that shows the all the parts but not how it is attached. The torque tube outer housing is riveted the the front of the differential casing making access to this area impossible. I'm not sure if something has broke or just disconnected. If any of you mid 20's Chev owners have any ideas on what my next step would be or have experienced this before, I could use a little guidance and appreciate any suggestions . My name is Steve and I live in Kingston, Ontario, Canada.

Thanks Scott, I checked them out. They don't seem to list anything for my truck. I left them a message to see if they have something that will work.

Good day, my name is Steve and I live in Kingston, Ontario (Canada). I own a 1959 Fargo (Dodge) pickup that I am doing a few upgrades. A previous owner swapped out the original power plant for a big block (383 or 400 not sure yet) hooked up to a 3 speed automatic transmission. They also upgraded the brakes to a dual master cylinder and stopped there. This winter I have installed a power steering unit and steering column out of a 72 Dodge W150. It still had the old standard 3 speed transmission steering column rigged up to the automatic with no gear indication and sloppy a hell. I still have a little tweaking to do on it and may need to install a damper. This I hope will make turning in tight places a whole lot easier considering the weight the big block exerts on my front axle. Now I need to start focusing on stopping. The old drum brake are crap. The passenger side drum howls when I brake hard. I ordered a new drum from Rockauto and it wasn't the right drum (my drum is riveted to the hub assembly). Besides, with the big block I need more braking power. That brings me to disc brakes. I found the bracket kit that "was" offered by Scarebird, however they are out of stock and are going out of business. They made a bracket assembly that mounted to the original hub and you use a 1998-2002 Ford Ranger FWD rotor with a Chev 1500 caliper. I did find a complete conversion kit that required drilling and tapping, for $1200 USD. That would put me well over $2000 Canadian with shipping, duty and taxes. I haven't found any other alternatives so I may try to make my own. With that said, is there anyone out there that has a economical solution, maybe a Scarebird bracket for sale or possibly trace a template and include instructions/specs and I could get a local shop to fabricate the brackets. If anyone has any constructive advice on this, other that pony up the $2000 plus, I would appreciate it.

Good day, I just found out my 29 Olds speedo housing is broke. Just checking to see if you still have or know where I could source one. Thanks Steve.

Good day, I am offering my 1956 (Canadian built) Plymouth Plaza 2 Door Club sedan for sale. I am the second owner and the car has been in my possession since 1999. It has a 230 cu. in. flat head 6 cylinder engine paired with a 2 speed "push button" automatic transmission. I had the car repainted in 2000 and has been licensed and driven since. Over the years I have added other vehicles to my collection and find the Plymouth seeing less and less daylight. It's time to seek out a potential new owner who can appreciate and care for this very original and complete survivor. I've been asked at car shows why don't I upgrade the power train ("rod it"), however I am a bit of a purest and have left it completely original. It is the bottom of the Plymouth line (bottom of the Chrysler line and bottom of the "big Three") and basically was a throw away car. This one somehow survived time and Canadian winters. It certainly would have more curb appeal if the trim level was upgraded to that of a Savoy or Belvedere with two tone paint, that's for the next owner to decide. I am looking for $9000.00 Canadian and that would include a truck load of spare parts that I have accumulated over the years. If interested or if you need more pictures, you can contact me at steveseguin@bell.net. Thanks for looking. Steve

Good day, you may have seen my recent post looking for info on a 29 Olds fluid gas sending unit. Would you have anything like it or know where I could find one. I've received a few leads about restoring my old one but was wondering if anyone had one. Steve

I have a pair of the correct 11 in. tiltray headlights.

Thanks for the leads. I have "googled" fluid gas tank sending units as well as searching many gas tank web sites and have hit dead ends. I will try these leads and hopefully get some insight. Steve

Good day, I have recently acquired a 1929 Oldsmobile F29 Landau Deluxe. It is an older restoration by a gentleman who once ran a Chev/Olds dealership in a small town in Ontario, Canada. It had been sitting for about 9 years so I removed the gas tank to clean out any dirt or rust. The previous owner had rebuilt the tank using galvanized sheet metal but it still was rusty inside. I plan to send the tank out to be sand blasted and sealed. The sending unit is the fluid type as is the fuel guage on my dash. I don't know if it can be salvaged or if a replacement is available. Any suggestions on a way forward would be appreciated. Presently I have only one fuel line going from the tank to the engine compartment. If you are familiar with this setup I could use some guidance. Steve

Good day, my name is Steve and I live in Kingston, Ontario, Canada and I have a 1929 Studebaker Commander Victoria GJC 530, SER. # 4078455, that needs a new home. I could post it on-line for sale and get a bunch of tire kickers and guys who want to rod it, however it was originally my intention to preserve it as one of America's fine examples of automotive engineering. It is a very complete car that wouldn't require a great deal to bring back to life. I have checked out your club a few times and can see most of your members are dedicated to the restoration of these great automobiles. My question today is if there is a way for me to get the word out to your members and see if someone might have some interest in this car. I will give you my e-mail address and answer any inquiries and send more photos if requested. It is steveseguin@bell.net. Thank You.