jaycoop

My speculation was wrong. The loop apparently is just a finger hole to pull the tread cover away and off of the tire; and the face plate must go on first and is held in place by the tread cover. It's all just a form fit. There are no bolts, screws or clips - it just hangs on there.....I guess for the convenience of the tire changer - and any would-be thieves. 😉

The 2-piece rear-mounted spare tire cover for this car has a small loop welded to one side of the tread cover where it meets at the bottom. Was this 'loop' designed to be pinched between the tire and the other side of the tread cover? Does the face plate then go over it to sort of hold things in place...or am I not understanding the principle of it?

Removed front fenders from a body-on project - had to aggressively pry the rear inner fender corners from between the body and body mount. It appears that the fenders were originally installed first; then the body was set over top of a 5" portion of the rear inner fender which rests on top of the frame. In re-assembly would there be any harm in cutting off the piece of sheet metal which was sandwiched in between? I can't see where it provides much structural support, as it is bolted together in other places all around. It is very difficult to properly lower the fender into position while also trying to shove the inner fender horizontally between the body and mount. I don't want to risk damaging new bodywork and paint.

OK, got it figured out. The system worked fine with the mini circuit, and I used the flasher marked "Heavy Duty 535". So I went back and triple checked the wiring and grounds. It was a poor ground, my fault. Thanks again for the help and the insight into this system. It's a great way to employ a vintage 3-position switch, as long as you have a place to tuck the relay assembly out of sight. ☺️

Wonderful, thanks for more good feedback...so the relays are not likely the issue. I will try that good idea of making a small circuit with spare sockets. I have some. I can see where it will help narrow things down. I'll also make sure the switch contacts are good/clean.

Thank you for replying! Yes, I'm using traditional incandescent bulbs and thermal flasher. The 3 different brand flashers I tried make a click sound, as if wanting to function, but then stop. Maybe an electronic flasher would work? I wonder if the relays are somehow preventing the old-fashioned thermal flasher from doing its normal thing? I have double checked for good grounding.

Hello all, I followed the attached schematic, except am using 6 volt relays, in conjunction with an NOS 1940s column-mounted lever switch. When switch is activated, the turn signal lights glow solid. I've tried different flasher units, so that's not the problem. I found this schematic on-line about 10 years ago and now can't find the source. Any troubleshooting ideas or criticism of the schematic? Thanks!

If you haven't seen the thread on the HET website Open Forum re: 'remanufactured differential gears', please visit it if you are able. There is an effort underway (coordinated by HET member Tom Lynch) to have a state-of-the-art CNC gear manufacturer reproduce differential gears of a modified ratio for 34-47 Hudsons. This would change the ratio from approx. 4.10 to approx. 3.5, which according to users of previously produced sets, results in favorable performance changes (somewhat lowered starting speeds, but much improved cruising speed/reduction in engine RPMs). As you may know, this effort has been undertaken in the past by the Railton Club and HET member Ivan Zaremba, with those gearsets having already been spoken for. The proposed current project will include both 6 bolt crown gears (approx. 34-37) and 8 bolt crown gears (approx. 38-47). The cost per set is estimated to be 1300.00. Please help get the word out....there is a limited timeframe and we want to get the word to as many HET owners as possible. Please express your interest by sending an email to terrahasktavern@netsync.net (drop the 'terra' when sending) and/or chime in on the website thread. Also, if you know other Hudson/Terraplane owners who may have been waiting for production of these gearsets, please pass this along.Thank you,Jared CooperHET Club Member

Hello, I have some 20" solid steel wheels on a 1928 Clarktor, which may have been used on other trucks/cars of the period. I would like to replace them, due to heavy corrosion/loss of steel at the rim perimeters. The hub opening is 2-3/4" and there are six 5/8" bolt holes, spaced directly opposed at 6". Is this a wheel used elsewhere, and modified by Clark? Note that there does not appear to be a split rim ring, rather it is solid. Note also that the original tires were 32x6.