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  1. Well the orignal cylinder lock is non existent, so I saw it has a opportunity to modernize it with an electronic one. I just think its a cool little thing and it serves its purpose. Not necessarly better but it was for sure cheaper then fixing the column or even getting a new one. I might fix it one day just to lock the steering wheel and shifter with a key because I popped in a new cylinder just to cover the hole. $20 and a lesson in these old electrical systems was worth it to me haha.
  2. Yeah it was a convertible I seen that too haha!, it was a pretty clean car too not sure why they would hit on it like that being so clean. On this caddlic someone tried really hard to get into the trunk because the lock for the trunk looked like it had been beat with a sledge hammer a million times even the hole where the lock sits was a little bent up. I replaced it through now is good as new.
  3. Wow I never seen cars that start that way with the little pedal closing the circuit pretty good idea actually. But for me the electronic push button gives the car a key to start as it did not come with any keys what so ever. It also adds some sense of security as it locks the Ingition after 10 seconds. Even if the battery is disconnected and reconnected you still need the rfid key to crank the motor. But of course like you said a screwdriver could accomplish the same thing. But that's any car of this age.
  4. wow I never knew 1955 had push button starting, was it like a key and button, or just simply a button anyone can push? Wouldn't mind having a vehicle from that era. But personally I am a big into modifying cars and customizing them so it would never stay stock for me.
  5. Yes I agree that original always fits the best, I have other heavily customized and modified vehicles that I own but are much newer than this caddillic so this era of cars are new to me. I personally enjoy the challenge of modifying things to work if they make sense. In this case the car had its ingition switch drilled out when I got it so it was a fun and cheap project to try and fit the push button. Also a good feeling to know am probably the only one in my area with a car this old equipped with this type of starting setup haha.
  6. I guess I have now learned my lesson when it comes to electrical issues, always check the ground! I am trying to put an aftermarket system with technology at least 30 years newer than the car however. Haha
  7. Just wanted to make an update to this issue, I ended up figuring it out yesterday when I had some time to toy with it. Turns out it was a ground loop that was my problem. I simply grounded the push start kits box up too the steering column where the original switch goes and the car fired right up with the push start as before. My carburetor work seemed to fix my issue I was having with that as well. Also I took a look at the steering wheel to see of it was locked as someone had mentioned it before and I had known I might have an issue with that. It appears the pin that locks the wheel was brok
  8. Yes I agree with this, the only thing I have done to the car in terms of aftermarket connect the push start kit harness into the original harness where the ignition switch in the column would go. I assume everything else is stock from the previous owner. The car is repossessed vehicle the the column was all messed up and the key cylinder was drilled out along with all the rest of the locks the car. I will provide the diagram for the push kit, I have to go find where I put it haha.
  9. Yes I discovered this about the coil when I was testing for voltage at the coil before a tried the old switch, I have both run and start positions because I can put the car into the run position without starting the car. I had this button working well before I changed my alternator. Wouldn't it have had the same problem before?
  10. Hello again everyone, I got the car running again this weekend, and seems to be running better than ever. After some thinking I decided to connect the original ingition switch up and tried it and the car fired right up. This confirmed my suspicion about my push start system turning the car back off the second it fired. Seems I am getting some kind of feedback or intefernce somewhere in the system that is making my push button system not work anymore. So I got myself a diode and installed it into a fuse holder and connected it between my blue and brown wire which are jumped on the old regulator
  11. Thank you for your input, it helped me rule out the bypassing of the external regulator so I have wired up the alternator correctly now. I ended up replacing the coil today as I was going to do it anyways to no luck. I think it is a carb issue as I had done some carb work on it replacing the needle and doing gaskets as they where old. I am going to take a look at that next as that is the other thing I changed since I last ran it.
  12. Hello everyone, I am having a another problem with my Coupe Deville. I had to replace the old alternator because the old one was out and not charging, could have also been the regulator but I was planning on installing a sound system later so I decided to just replace with 10si 110 amp model. I got everything in but I cant seem to get the car to start with the current configuration. I have my blue wire connected to the 1 position on the alternator and I simply jumped the wire that goes in the number 2 position to the output for the sense wire, however I understand there are better ways to do t
  13. yes the purple is the solenoid wire, the yellow wire I am referring too is the yellow wire off of the push button start kit. I also have fixed my fatal spelling error of the word "brake" haha.
  14. Hello everyone I thought I would just update everyone on this problem in case anyone else might have the same issue I was having. It turns out I had the brake wire coming from the box that senses when your holding the brake was wired up to the neutral safety switch which is not carrying any current until the car is cranking because it is tied in with the starter circuit. This would explain why I had no power coming from the yellow wire when I wired it according to the diagram that comes with the kit. The box only sends signal to the starter when the brake wire has signal from the cars brake li
  15. Thank you all for your inputs and advice. I think I will try to tap into the pink wire which I thought was the wire for the coil with the starter wire on the kit and see if I can grab power that way, as from what you said the coil receives power from solenoid circuit. But am not sure if it will solve my issue, if not I will simply repair my column so my key cylinder works again. The wiring diagram I found online would indicate that the way I have it wired should work but like you said the circuitry is likely not considered and that would make a lot of sense as to why am having trouble. Here is
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