Axial_Flow

I couldn't help but think, for 75K, where is the rest of the car? 🙄

Hello, I am looking for the elbow fitting for the intake manifold drain line. I believe this elbow is also a check valve. Mine is just a plain fitting. This is for a 1931 DB DG. Ignore the missing heat valve pictured below. Thank you

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1935-studebaker-commander/ Looks to be a great driver. See auction listing for all the details.

End of March update After spending too much time over thinking the oil pump timing, I got to a point where I felt I had it under control. The part that kept throwing me off was the service manual says to time up the oil pump on top dead center compression for #1 cylinder. The distributor rotor position was past the #1 cylinder terminal and heading towards the next cylinder, but this is normal operation as #1 cylinder fires well before TDC. Once I backed up crankshaft and aligned it to the firing timing (mark) position, the rotor was more or less aligned to the #1 cylinder terminal. I can finally put that to bed and finish the oil pump install. Nothing abnormal about installing the pump and pick-up. I replaced some of the hardware I wasn't happy with and found the perfect cotter pin to secure the float pick-up tube. With everything in order I was ready to install my newly painted oil pan. I used Bill Hirsch paint and I was happy with how it turned out. For the gasket, I used Permatex to glue the gasket onto the pan and applied a light coat of grease on the top surface of the gasket. My intent is the next time I need to drop the pan, the gasket will stay with the pan and I should be able to reuse the gasket, or at least the gasket won't stick to the engine. Also, a note for others, the crankshaft must be in a certain position to be able to remove and install the pan. The counter weights need to be "out of the way" to allow the pan to clear the underside of the engine. I also changed the engine oil filter. Nothing crazy exciting, pretty standard partial flow filter element. I do intend on doing another oil change in probably 500 miles or so to flush anything out. I will most likely use Shell 15w-40 'diesel' oil for the first oil refill. I have a few items I want to do before attempting to start the engine. Clean oil pressure regulating valve Reinstall rear tappet cover & road draft tube Clean and gap points & reinstall distributor I did note that the upper distributor bushing must be worn because I can cause the points to open if I push on the shaft. Need to look at that later. I also want to test the vacuum advance. Test oil pressure with all spark plugs out and cranking with starter Compression test to verify no stuck valves or other issues If all that checks out, I'll probably connect a remote fuel tank (boat tank) and use an electric fuel pump and see if I can start the engine. I plan on videoing that when the time comes. I also learned something new about this car, I found out that the panels just below the hood/above the fenders are removable and help provide better access to the engine. Nice to know Pictures from the activities above

Seldom seen car in nice condition. A few items that jump out for me. Wrong headlamps Vacuum fuel pump disconnected, assuming an electric pump is in use. Carburetor preheat pipe is missing, surprised if the engine runs well without this.

Looks like it has an alternator, possibility a 10SI? Would also have to assume it has been converted to 12 volts.

Certainly not the first, but Oakland also had 4 wheel mechanical brakes as well.

No experience with the Bill Hirsch tank liner, but I have used the POR-15 tank liner. Its been close to 20 years in my `27 Chevy and still going strong.

Appears to be sold. Looked like a solid, not messed with car. Having driven both Ford & Chevrolet of this era, I do prefer the Chevrolet.

I’m in need of some help. I am getting hung up on installing the oil pump and timing it correctly. I have the service manual and by advice of this forum in another post (Gary) I only focused on the text. I am fairly sure I got it right assuming my cap wired correctly per the firing order. I got the tongue of the oil pump close to parallel with the cam, with the smaller offset portion of the coupling opposite of the cam. My rotor ends up in this position which more or less aligns with #1 cylinder spark plug wire. Can anyone who owns a President with autolite distributor confirm this is correct? Thank you

I am wondering what others are using for "modern" spark plugs. My car currently has Champion D16 spark plugs. I am thinking about changing to AC C87s, please comment or opine.

The R2 models are supercharged. Not sure this is what you were implying, but thought I would comment none the less. I used to hear on the SDC forum "there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Avanti"

I would love to someday own an early example of a Caddy V8 (is this still consider early?) Too bad this example is so far away. Question about the air filters, are they factory or an add on item?

Short update I got the oil pan all cleaned up without removing the rear baffle section. I used a combination of hot water pressure washer, brake clean & compressed air. The only problem is it took off most of the paint on the outside. I decided to remove the remaining paint and get it prepped for paint. Does anyone have a recommendation for paint that would match the original paint on the engine? At least one Studebaker parts vendor lists paint and so does Bill Hirsch. Or if someone has a modern paint code, that would work too. The oil pump is all cleaned up and ready to go back on. Strainer is also all clean ready to go back on as well. I did find a problem with my intake manifold, it appears to have a large crack. The crack is in the area of the preheat section and I don’t think it will cause an issue like a vacuum leak. My heat riser valve is missing some parts and could be in the off position, so exhaust may not even leak from the crack. Until the engine is running, I won’t know if the crack is a problem. All for now

It would be great if this car was equipped with Over-Drive (OD), however I do not see any signs that it does. The 226 six is a great engine regardless.

@E-116-YH >Would be able to say for sure.

Yes indeed, the service manual gives a good overview of the operation of the oil pump strainer or "Floto". Float On Top of Oil???? They also warn not to disassemble the Floto. After a few trips in the ultrasonic cleaner (I had to weight it down due to its floating properties), there is still some dirt in the middle of the screen area. If this dirt is really oil based, I wondered if I could "bake" the dirt out if it by cooking it in my toaster oven (note, not the toaster oven in the kitchen). I don't know if this would hurt it or if I should bent the tabs over to remove the lower part to fully clean the screen? Maybe I am over thinking how clean this screen needs to be.

Hello again, It has been about a year since I got off this project to tackle a bunch of other projects and activities. Last Friday I decided I needed to get back on this car if I had hopes of bringing it to Hershey this year. I got the car situated on the lift and I either wanted to one: refill the engine oil/change filter and perform a compression test or two: pull the oil pan to clean and inspect. I borrowed an inspection camera/bore scope that plugs into your laptop, I stuck this into the oil pan drain hole and started to look around, not happy with what I saw, I removed the engine oil pan. Glad I did, while not awful, there was enough sludge and dirt to possibly cause a problem or at worst, bearing failure. The other issue was the oil strainer was mostly plugged with this same dirt. While I had the pan off, I took off the oil pump to flush and clean it out. The pump seems to be in pretty good condition, the shaft end play is out of spec (0.010") and there is a little bit of backlash in the pump shaft & gear, but I don't think it is anything to worry about. I was going to slightly lap the pump cover on a plate of glass and some emery cloth to clean up the surface some. There is also an odd spot of wear on the pump output tube, not sure what wore that spot, the crank isn't close to contacting it at any place in rotation. Besides some dirt, the inside of the engine seems ok. I was not planning on removing any connecting rod caps or main bearing caps to check bearings. The rods are tight on the crank and I really don't want to go looking for more trouble since this should be a low mileage and running engine not long ago. Agree or disagree?? The other trouble is dealing with the sludge in the oil pan under the rear baffle section. I am currently soaking the oil pan in gas and stirring it up once in a while. If I can't get the sludge out from under the baffle, I will probably cut the spot welds and remove the baffle, clean, and weld it back in. That is the current attack plan right now. I am trying to get some gaskets lined up so I can put the pan back in and hopefully move onto the next check/step. A few pictures below showing some of the items above. I also threw in a few pictures of the on going Special Six project. I should start a new thread on that project once I get further along. It feels good to be back.

Yes, it is missing along with the rear assist cords, and possibly a few roller shades.

I’m not as young as I used to be (37) but I am slowly getting my kids hooked on these old cars. Pictures from our annual New Year’s Day drive. This year it was the Model ‘T’s turn. I have been into old cars since I was very little, thanks Dad.

I would agree with your assessment.

Comp of a running and driving car: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1924-studebaker-light-six-2/

This old photograph is in a local restaurant we like to dine at. It’s a photo of the building back in the late 1920s or early 1930s. The picture isn’t very clear, but I am guessing the car is a 1927 Oldsmobile. Can anyone confirm or deny? The rear lamp helped me come to this conclusion, see picture 2. Thanks