JMac1

I don't know how affordably it can be shipped to Austria, but Classic Radiator (https://www.classicradiator.com/) has this in stock for USD $675.00 (https://classicfordradiator.com/1950-52-NEW-Buick-3-row-radiator.aspx). Email Joe at sales@classicradiator.com to get shipping info. When I worked there, we shipped many radiators to Europe. John

https://www.caparadiator.com/ Last fall and winter, we repaired two Maxwells (1906 & 1911). I think that one was a repair and the other a recore. You can talk to Bill or Joe about it. They can be reached at 516-2939026.

I found it fascinating. Of course, this is also my field (or it was...). Also, thank you for explaining Reynolds' Number better than I was about to. One note: By this definition, cats are a liquid.

You said that it was 5" too short, therefore they sold you a radiator for a Special, not a Riv.

Hey @Deanoko, I can surely help you out with this. I spent four decades in the radiator industry. First, I need to ask why you're looking at a 4-row HE radiator. Unless you're running a big block .060 over and A/C, you're unlikely to need such a beast. If you're running anything tamer than that, I would recommend a 3-row HE. that runs $833.44 from US Radiator or you can get it from Classic Radiator (https://www.classicradiator.com/) for $695.00. They also sell the 4-row HE for $795, but I don't think it's a stock item. It says that he's currently out of stock on the 3R (,https://classicfordradiator.com/1963-64-65-Buick-Riviera-3-row-copper-radiator.aspx) but when I spoke to Bill on Friday, he said that his stock order had just come in, but he hadn't had a chance to update the website yet (he's in the process of moving the radiator shop to a new location), so call him at 516-293-2175 and ask. If you do choose to go aluminum, he is also your best bet. He distributes Griffin, probably the best aluminum radiator manufacturer, and sells them at Griffin's lowest allowable price. @Turbinator and @rocketraider: You guys were dealing with the "old" US Radiator, located in L.A. California. They were sold out around 5 years ago (maybe 6) and are now located in Gadsden Alabama. They are still not perfect (especially with billing and shipping, but they are much improved. During the years that I worked for Classic Radiator, we distributed their products (Bill still dies, but I'm retired) and had problems with exactly one of their copper/brass radiators (and one aluminum radiator).

I just got off the phone with Bill at Classic Radiator (https://www.classicradiator.com/). He said that the parts came in today to build one for your car, even though it says out-of-stock on the website (https://classicfordradiator.com/1953-NEW-Buick-3-row-radiator-NailheadV-1.aspx). The parts are in stock. It does take a couple days for him to build it. The cost is $875.00 I understand that you're looking for cheap — not good — but the only other alternative is Champion and when (not "if" it breaks, good luck with that "warranty"! Don't believe me? You don't have to: https://www.championradiators.com/warranty-return-policies. You van reply or PM me with questions.

Hi Leo, I hate to be the one to break it to you, but as someone who specialized in antique radiator repair for over 40 years, I can tell from just those two pictures that the core of that radiator is beyond salvation. Aside from the obvious problems of the leaks in the center of the core, it is completely rotted across the top of the core. I have even more bad news for whoever buys it: this is not a cheap one to recore. It's both a very large radiator and extremely labor-intensive, with all of those notched corners, as well as the crank hole. And it's 2¼" deep, which is a style that costs more than 2" or 2½". I retired a year ago from Classic Radiator (www.ClassicRadiator.com), so I'm not qualified to give an exact price without making a phone call, but I would say it's approximately $8-10k plus shipping to/from Long Island, NY to recore it. I can get you/your buyer a more-precise quote if needed.

Almost certainly correct. There is also an outside chance that it's a 1931 deSoto 8-cylinder CF. If it is, the core is 18⅜" wide and 2¾" thick. Otherwise, if it's the Buick , it is 20" wide. It is a 115 series if the core is 2" thick, or 120-128 series if it is2½" thick.

First, here is what's happening to your radiator, according to your description (I spent 40 years in the radiator business), you probably have a leak in the upper corner on the driver's side; the corner, neck and seam, to be exact. The thing about GM crossflow radiators is that they're infamous for leaking along the headers and then the leaks clog up with corrosion and once you start fixing one leak, you can chase it all the way down the header before conceding. 1966 Riviera V8 with automatic and A/C hand-assembled in America by Bill, high efficiency 3-row, which will give you about 25% better cooling than the OEM radiator ever did, is available for $595 plus shipping from Classic Radiator (I used to work there). www.ClassicRadiator.com 516-293-2175. If you really want an aluminum one, he can get you that too, but I recommend the Copper/Brass OE style because it's better, stronger and, as Wayne implied, easier to repair if you ever do run into another problem with it.

Best place to recore your radiator: https://www.classicradiator.com/

The fact that they use Red-Kote®, as opposed to a cheaper brand that won't work anywhere near as well, is a good indicator that they know what they're doing. Also, coating is a process and even if the shop has no other work, it will take several days; plan for them to have it for at least a week at this time of year. Also tell them that you want your drain plug to function when it's done, or they might seal it. However, any good radiator shop knows to keep it open, but just remind them anyway.

We work on many antique gas tanks (we have a dozen in the shop right now). If they've been setting for a long time, the fuel that is in the tank will turn solid. This is most likely what you're feeling in there. Your best bet is to send it to a radiator shop (yes, we do still exist), get it boiled, cleaned out and (if necessary) coated with Red-Kote® (40+ years in the business, we've tried most of them and this is by far the best product). If the shop knows what they are doing, you will not only have a tank that will function properly for decades longer, but you will also be able to use your drain plug.

The radiator is no problem. Both are in stock https://classicfordradiator.com/1954-56-NEW-Buick-3-row-radiator-regular-core-design-3131176.aspx https://classicfordradiator.com/1954-56-NEW-Buick-radiator-3131176.aspx Since you're in Tucson, I highly recommend the High Efficiency.

www.ClassicRadiator.com. It's what we specialize in 516.293.2175

On that, you're 100% correct. Having been in the industry for over 40 years, I know the majority of the people in the industry, and I only know of two people in the industry who are under 50! It really is a dying industry and most are are gone.

I hate to break the news to you, but we *DO* rod-out radiators (and marine heat exchangers). But not too many octogenarians are going to make it through a good rodding-out, especially on a V-cell core like the original one on this Buick. It's not laziness that prevents us from doing rod-outs, it's aging metals.

Here are the videos side-by-side. https://www.caparadiator.com/video Scroll down past the first three to see them.

I hope that you're correct Ed, because that means that 80% of the cars on the highways today are going to need their radiators recored!!! I hope that EmTee posts the before-and-after photos and the before-and-after flow test videos that he received last night.

Middle of 1956, actually.

They are very different. Both 1928 models are 24" between the two side tanks and the 1929 model was 26⅜". Pontiac crossflow radiators from 1928-1932 all were one-year-only. 1933-1934 and 1935-1936 were two-years only. In 1937, Pontiac moved to downflow radiators.

First off, if you are going with Vintage Air, DO NOT follow the advice of going to a lower pressure cap. For every pound of pressure, the boiling point of the coolant is raised 3°. Adding in the A/C could be problematic. Most aluminum radiators out there are garbage. Someone mentioned using 1" or 1¼" tubes and while he is 100% correct, there really are only a couple good brands of those, and some are still made in third-world countries. Your best bet, by far is copper and brass with high efficiency cooling... unless you live near the Canadian border and then you might get away without the HE cooling bit.

I document all heater cores (and radiators) that are available,. except for garbage made in China. Heater cores for pre-1966 Rivieras are not available. They're recore-only.

I have three guys who do them. Please message me and I will see who would best fit your needs.

Hello everyone. I'm the manager of Classic Heaters and Radiators. About 20 years ago, I had a customer come in with a coolant leak in his 66 Mustang. He said it was coming from the gas tank. I went out to his car, saw the leak. I asked him to open the trunk. I picked up the anti-freeze bottle from the trunk, tightened the lid and stood it upright. Also, highcking, the reason that you're unable to locate an underseat heater for your Buick is that nobody makes them... except us. If you're still looking for one, let me know or look at www.ClassicRadiator.com