MrY

The filter is ahead of the pump ie filter before it goes into the pump so clean gas should go in, then you are right the check valve / back flow valve could be old and worn out, and the fuel in the 2 feet line before carburetor probably slips through the fuel pump back to the tank of it's own gravity and the check valve doesn't hold more than 2-3 days. Fuel pump was on the car when I bought it and I have not history on how old it is or if it ever have been replaced or rebuild. For now I have to give it a sip of gasoline to quick start the old Buick /thx

Today I asked by wife to crank the care while I was looking at the clear glass filter if I could see any gasoline going through The car has been sitting for about a month now The first second of crank I saw gasoline being pumped through the glass so the fuel pump is doing it's work I did see some dirt being shoveled around inside the glass but it should not prevent the car from starting But I see it has to pump up gasoline in the fuel line about 2 feet before it reaches the carburetor and then it has to full the bowl so it could take a while before it gets there. An electric fuel pump would solve this problem if it allow to pressure it through the mechanical fuel pump before I give it a try to start Then of course the battery ran low and I was not able to get the car running today I cleaned out the dirt in the glass filter and will give it a new shot tomorrow Still having an extra bottle with gasoline to pour down the carburetor to get the car starting and to get the mechanical fuel pump run faster .... thx

I tried that ... believe me ... but after sitting for a while I guess there is no gas in the carburetor to squirt down .... And I crank way more than I want to and what's normal and I don't want to wear out the battery or the starter Giving it a slurp of 'whisky' always do the trick but I am tired of going out and open the hood and off with the air cleaner and look for the gas can etc

Good pump .... I will give a try next time I try to start ie to disconnect the fuel line just before the carb and see if any fuel actually is coming or the fuel pump has problem to get a suction ie the membranes are toast and heading for a rebuild or replacement fuel pump.

Winter startup of my -56 Buick and -57 Chevy...... Buick has an electric fuel pump in the rear I heard when turning on the ignition Let it sit for a minute to prime the carburetor then pump 4 times and it starts right up. I see the original fuel pump is removed and a block plate in place. The 57 Chevy has a cheap Chines $12 fuel pump to prime the carburetor and then the Mechanical fuel pump takes over This one too started right up after priming the carb and pump 4 times Now they can sit for another 2 months before we do a new start - battery tender on while sleeping thx

Ok that make sense .... I will try to look for some leak and tighten the bolts and clams ./thx

Hey Guys, anyone had this experienced and how did you FIX it ? If I drive the car every 1-2 days no problem start right up. If it sits for +3 days, I have to crank and crank, I can crank for 10 min and it never start. I have to pull the air cleaner and pour some gasoline down the carb and then it starts right up. Then I can stop and go without problems until it sits for more than 3 days.... I wounder if it's the fuel pump membrane that is shot or ? but if the car starts up it run just fine .... Before I replace the fuel pump I thought I ask for advice... Don't want to replace something that is working just fine New fuel pump is like $300 Rebuild kit like $120 Electric fuel pump like $12 (china junk) thx

I just sold a 1964 1/2 Ford Mustang Convertible sold after 2 weeks. Listed it on Ebay and on Facebook I got 3344 clicks on the ad on FB and 430 clicks on Ebay 4 real interested guys from FB 2 real interested guys from Ebay (ie who actually called and showed real interest) Sold to a local guy with lead from FB Ebay $102 to list it for 30 days FB free

My Buick is back on the road again and my drive way is spotless again

Finally got it fix, the mechanic had to pull the rear end twice !!! The cupling that I had on did not have any rubber boot like the new one we put on from Cars.com (see pic) Now it's not leaking anymore There is a good video about it how it's done on YouTube clled Big Leak Buick Dynaflow Torque Ball Leak Sealing Kit If you are experiencing a leak at the rear of your Dynaflow transmission the culprit is what Buick calls the "Torque Ball". This is the pivot area between the transmission and the torque tube (drive shaft tube). There are a few seals involved here that wear in time. Our Kit provides all of them and gives you detailed instructions even more specific than a genuine Buick shop manual. The heart of the kit is our Torque Ball Retainer. This is a heavy gauge steel shell that resembles a soup bowl. The most important part is the rubber seal that is vulcanized to the inner shell. This insures that no transmission fluid will pass between the torque ball and the Retainer. Please note that we have been selling this same Retainer and seal kit since 1988 with satisfied customers in the thousands Free US Shipping! Here's what is in the Kit: Torque Ball Retainer with Vulcanized Rubber Seal (notice our retainer is plated so not to rust) Torque Ball Gaskets/Shims Torque Ball to Torque Tube Gasket Torque Ball to Propeller Shaft Seal Torque Ball "O" Ring Step by Step Instructions We also sell these components separately Another Quality reproduction from CARS

Yeah it’s definitely a task for someone with a lift as I am too old to crawl around under a car with Jack stands. it’s a mystery cause there was no leaks before I went to the muffler shop and all we did is jangk the rear end up and down 4 inches. After that it started to drip like I said 2 drips per second and he had to go get car sand to soak it up. It’s not a little leak but a major. I drove home about 20 min and when I checked the trans fluid level there was NOTHING to be found on the dip stick. I poured 3 quarters in to get it between the marks so it pumped out 3 quarters in 20 min ride. The front vulcanized cup looks dry and no oil. It’s coming from the last joint where the reat torque tube is attached to the rear cup holding the the joint so to me i sounds like the rear seal is blown that is preventing the trans oil to get out from the tranny to the rear torque tube. I did tighten the 2 bolt I could reach at the muffler shop (of 4 bolts) but I could not reach the 2 on the top cause the muffler shop did not have any tools and the car was on the lift in park and parking breaks engaged so I could not spin it around. only bad is I have a I take the car for a photo shot today so I have to drive it and I guess keep pouring the oil in. when shit happens - it is never at a convenient time. :(

Thank you for your reply and advise I think it’s the very rear seal that is blown - I don’t saw any oil coming from the forward large cup. I will order a real seal kit and hope that will do it A Buick Dynaflow transmission rear seal kit for the years 1953 1954 1955 1956 1957 1958, 1959 and 1960. This kit will seal the connection between the torque tube and torque ball at the rear of your Dynaflow transmission. You will receive a Dynaflow Transmission rear seal with measurements of 2.062" OD, 1.375" ID, and 0.375" thick. You will also receive a torque tube to torque ball gasket with measurements of 3 3/4 inch OD, and 2 1/8 inch ID. Fits all Dynaflow transmissions 1953-1960.

Bottom line - before today my driveway has been spotless, no drips from the engine or the tranny or the torque axle - so something major broke or got disrupted today and it's such a disappointment on a run running car

The seal was replaced when transmission was replace and you see all the pieces are clean and almost like new ie no dirt or gunk. What we did to day at the muffler shop was raised and lowered the rear end a couple times and that must have disrupted something. It leaks from the rear seal ie not the Big piece pictures but in the rear where you see 2 bolts ( I guess there is 2 more on the top) I saw a YouTube video and it's a lot of work to move the rear axle backward etc .... pretty stupid construction if I may say...!! I went and pick up my kids with the Buick and I noticed where I had parked there was a BIG puddle of tans fluid ... and When I got home and parked on the drive way I had to push a oil pan under the car and it was dripping 2 drops per second and it's quite a lot that pours out. I guess it must be pressure or a lot in the rear seal that want to exit and every time I drives it a couple coffee cups get poured out so I better top off the Dynaflow soon I suspect the very rear seal the one on the top with 5 bolt holes in it is the one that is blown cause it is coming from the 2 round plate that is bolted together in the rear with 4-5 bolts Isee picture attached)

Drove my Buick -54 30min to my Muffler Shop, when we put it on a lift we noticed it was dripping A LOT from the middle of the car behind the Transmission. Btw there is a new transmission in the car but no leaks from it but from the front of the torque tube. we saw 2 bolts holding two flange together with what it looks like a seal between and it's from here the oils drips a lot. We tighten them before I drove back home and now I parked it for 30 min and look under and I see a big puddle !!! Is this a common problem ? What is the fix ? Is it complicated ? Do I need to get a new seal and you think that would be enough or is there more to it ? ANY advice is welcome ... looks like I have to take it to a shop with a lift but want to be prepared and have the parts handy since it's probably special order item and about a week turn around ..... /thx ( See 2 pic attached )

if the hubcaps fly off I would try to bend the tabs on the hupcaps .... they might be too loose - my 2 cents

Has ANYONE put duck tapes on hubcaps to avoid ugly scratched on you newly painted wheels ? I will give it a try and hopefully the caps doesn't fly off ..... also put the white wall on the outside of the tire which I think looks better don't know why the previously owner put it on the inside ?

Btw - I think I got a good deal for $8000 -54 Buick Super new chrome new paint new upholstery new carpet new shock new coils new radiator new tank new exhaust new transmission new rims new tires new hubcaps new potholes new hood ornament new trunk ornament new taillights I was told by the consignment shop the chrome was 8K alone ! What do you think"? The only BAD about the car is the VIN is not the one in the door pillar but it's the engine block number !! I almost didn't buy the car cause the VIN didn't match up but it seams to me DMV have messed up and sometimes the DMV people who do the inspection does not have a clue about car it's just a boring job for them so they don't care

Thanks all for responding to this thread .... I thought I had bought a 'lemon' but after putting the battery on charge and go to sleep I was anguish to try to start it this morning. I tighten the battery pools down and went inside the car, ignition on and I can hear the fan motor blowing so there was power, so far so good, I touched the gas pedal and it started right up. So it might have been a very weak battery from sitting in storage a long period of time or the pools was not tighten hard enough on the battery pools. Any how the car is running and I took it to her first cars and coffee show this morning and she was a favorite. See picture.

Hi - I bought a -54 Buick Super today, when the transporter deliver the car it did not start - it was dead. He said it started when he loaded the car. So he attached a 12v starter battery and it started. I put a battery charger on the Long style battery and it says it's almost fully charged !? When I put the + pool on and off I hear it clicks in the little relay on top of the fender. What is that relay for? What could be the problem? seams like there is a bad ground somewhere... when I put the gas to the bottom nothing happens no click no sound no nothing I turned on the head light and sometimes they work and sometimes they are dead .... is there some main fuze somewhere? under the dash or under the hood. Like I said I just bought this car today and thought it was a simple recharge the battery but it seams to be something more ..... Thanks for any advice Btw - the car is pretty nice restored and most are restored or replaced with new parts .... and it was running when we unloaded it from the transporter and put it on my drive way .... now it's a dead duck ERik

I read somewhere that I should turn the lock screw clockwise 1/8 - 1/4 and then take it for a drive, If needed adjust another 1/8 - 1/4 and take it for a drive ...

Hi I have an old 1956 Buick 46R with power steering box but there is a terrible about 4-5 inch slack in the steering wheel if the car is park and I wiggle it left and right without the pit man arm get engaged and move. It's no fun driving the car on the freeway cause I end up sitting and wiggling steering wheel left and right to keep the car go straight and it get tiresome ...... The steering rag joint has been replace and the next to tackle is the steering box I guess. I see there is a lock nut with a flat head screw in the middle of the X on the steering box top I guess this is for adjusting it but I have never done this before on any car Can anyone give me some hints on what to do ? Loosening the lock nut and Turning it down make it tighter ? I guess I want the gears to come closer to remove any gap or slack..... Please advice before I try or mess up something See picture of my steering box and locknut and screw. thx

On each side next to the spark plugs are 2 freeze plugs about the size of a Quater I have one leaking and do not need to buy a hole freeze plug kit for $49.00 Thought the local parts store must have universal expansion plugs that would fit. Anyone know what size it is before I start removing it ? It has started leaking water and I need to remove it and plug in a new one. I measure it to be about 1 1/16 so I guess the plug should be maybe 1 1/8 before you drive it in ... I think I can see 1 1/8 on one of the plugs .... Anyone done this job recently and recall ?

See pic 1) Left one - has a a shield in the center 2) Right one - has a sail boat in the center 3) Bottom one - has a shield and helmet anyone know what car and year they come from and even better if you have any Of then for sale thx

1970 OLDSMOBILE OLDS TORONADO RIGHT PASSENGER